junker2k

I run Yamalube 2r at 70-1 with know problems and less smoke.

Motovita, We will talk about that in a few weeks. Weight, agile, good power and very good handling.

I have cut the back bone other frames and changed the fork angle and I can tell you this is much easer to add a new steering head. Nothing else has to be changed or moved. The reasons I did it this way on the TY is #1 change the fork angle to 24 degrees and #2 I am 6 foot 2 and the TY175 doesn't leave me much rum to work, it is really cramped. As for the angle of the rear shocks on the Hojaka they work very well at the angle. I had to change the springs to stiffer ones and had to add a stop on the shaft because it was getting too much travel for the vintage class. There is very little if anything on this bike that is stock as built in 1974.

Here is a couple of pictures of my TY175 and 125 Hodaka trials bikes. JK

The rule states you can stop but both feet must be up. This is how I learned to ride in the 60's but nobody could balance worth a damn back the with the bikes we had so it was not much of a problem.

I keep reading about there was no-stop before 1985, this is not correct! I have a copy of the AMA and RMTA rules from 1973 and they state you can stop with both feet up and you can not better your position. Put a foot down and it is a 5. I could live with a rule like this. JK

I just did this to my ty175. On the ty175 the steering head angle is 28 degrees and the yokes or triple trees add another 3 degrees for a total of 31 degrees of rake. After cutting and rewelding the steering head and replacing the yokes and adding forks with a leading axel the total angle is 24 degrees. Now with this change and some others it handles more like a modern bike. I have seen guys putting way longer rear shocks on to change the fork angle but all this does is make the bike more unstable to ride. Jack K

The easy way to slow down the manufacturers' with there one off bikes for there super riders, is just put a claim on the bike at the end of the day. With cash in hand and paying retail price for there bikes. If you could buy Toni B. bike for what the dealers sell it the bike for. Most manufacturers' don't make a good living selling just trial bikes and after they loose a few of those high dollar bikes things would change. JK

You are right, if you cange the angle of the yokes it will change the rake angle of the forks and it will also change the trail. It is way easyer to change the yokes (triple trees) than change the angle of the streeing head.

You are mostly correct, when you change the fork rake angle you do shorten the trail and wheelbase some but you also change the fork angle. Most modern trials bike have around a 24 degree fork angle , that is why they can turn so sharp and under control. I have a plan now to change the angle and gain about 1.5 inches of wheel base . Back to my old Hodaka days.

I found on my TY175 the steering head is at 28 degrees and the forks are at 31.5 degrees. Plus the handle bar mounts are in a real bad location. My question has anyone found a triple tree that will bolt right in to the steering head for these bike. At 31 degrees the bike is great for going in a stright line but very poor for turning. I don't want to put longer shocks on the back because this will mess up the geometry of the whole bike.