archie

This thread is brilliant, but how about some pictures of these bikes and their mods ?

stevieb, I may be able to help you. Drop me a PM. Regards Archie

stevieb, I think you'll find it's the same casting. The second one does look a bit rough mind (!), but nothing that a bit of high build primer and a silver top coat won't sort. All the Scorpa four stroke 125/175/200 derivaties are based upon a stock TTR125 engine, and so casings etc., are usually pretty easy to find. The gaskets are pretty expensive, but can usually be re-used if removed carefully. There is a load of info on this forum on mods to these bikes as well which is worth checking out (if you havn't allready) which is where I got allot of useful info when I got my bike.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-TTR-125-engine-stator-coil-and-cover-/130605759003?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1e68b5ba1b http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-TTR-125-STATOR-COIL-COVER-/180613990024?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a0d6ec688 Two for starters

Interesting, thanks.

I ordered a set from Express Signs before Christmas which arrived incomplete. Despite numerous (polite) reminders I still await the outstanding decals

andyrothers, you don't often see the mod to the clutch actuator mentioned much, but in my opinion it transforms the rideability of the bike and is one of the best mods you can make and if you can do it yourself, it's a no cost mod

Hi ausy300pro Some food for thought: http://www.bjracing.com/sy125.html http://www.powroll.com/P_YAMAHA_TTR125.htm

Nice job on the bash plate RodT. It looks so good I thought it was some new (expensive) after market custom part! Cheers for the tip on the Plastikote btw. BBQ paint lol, that makes sense, I'll give it a go

RodT, Nice bash plate, did you make it yourself, and what did you use to paint your exhaust? Has it stayed on!? ausie300pro, have you tried out your lightened flywheel yet? What do you think?

ausy300pro Glad to hear youv'e found a flywheel. I put my lightened flywheel back on again this afternoon as I was interested to see just how much effect having the carburation sorted has had on things. I will run it up a few sections tomorrow, but I have had a quick spin on it, and I was very pleasantly suprised to find that I couldn't get it to hesitate at all. I had it in 3rd going uphill only a really light throttle, and then whacked the trottle fully open - NO hesitaion! I had also fogotten just how quickly the engine accelerates with the lightened flywheel fitted. SOOOO much more responsive Can't wait to give it a propper go tommorow. Just out of interest, before I re-fitted my lightened flywhell, I took this pic of my original (standard) flywheel next to my lightened flywheel (donor bike TTR125).

Whilst we are waiting for ausy300pro to find a flywheel, here's a pic to keep the thread alive. This is my 2007 TYS175, it's a full racing spec 163cc bike with the following mods: Exhaust box - all baffles removed Carb - Re-jet and set-up Cylinder head - ports polished, valve seats blended in and step removed from inlet manifold to inlet port Clutch - Actuating rod profile softened Throttle - Slow/super fast throttle Chain tensioner - Birkett H/D Gearing - 11/57 (have tried 10/57 & 10/54) Flywheel - Currently standard although have tried lightened flywheel Happy Christmas one and all Edit: Sorry, don't know how to make the link live, you'll have to copy and paste!

OK ausy300pro, I took my lightened flywheel to the Post Office this afternoon to get it weighed. Result 1.53kg I know Nigel Birkett says the standard flywheel weighs 2.1kg, but I seem to remember mine (it came off a TTR125, paid £20 off fleebay) was 1.9kg. Anyway, all I am saying is don't go less than 1.53kg! I found that the hesitaion was more pronounced with the lightened flywheel (obvious really), but when I lightened mine, I hadn't got the carburation sorted to the extent that I have now. The reason I didn't want to sell mine was, now that my carburation is sorted I quite fancy having another go with it. The throttle response and acceleration off the bottom was quite something with the lightened flywheel. You are not talking about a small difference. I was very surprised at just how much difference it made. How you get on depends on your riding style I guess. I would be interested to know how you get on

ausy300pro, I don't want to part with my ligtened flywheel (sorry I should have made my post clearer!). I was just offering to weigh it for you, as if you are about to lighten yours then at least you would have a point of reference. I'll take it to work and put it on our postal scales which are reasonably accurate.

Sorry to hi-jack the thread, but excellent news ausie300pro " got forks sorted". I found mine were VERY sensitive to having the correct amount of oil also. Before you dive in with the flywheel, let me see if I can weigh my lightened flywheel first. Are you interested? I mentioned in an earlier post that I had bought a standard flywheel off fleebay and lightened that. Having riden the bike with the lightened flywheel, I went back to the standard flywheel. Throttle response MUCH quicker with the lightened flywheel, but I kept stalling the f*****g thing. Now, having got used to the standard flywheel again, I would say a half way house "may" be the optimum. One thing also to bear in mind. Have you dialed out that hesitation when opening it up from a light throttle load? I found it was more pronounced (obvious really) with the lightened flywheel. Much less so with the standard flywheel. What gearbox sprocket do you use. I found 10t too short for me and I use 11t. 11t plus light flywheel was may be pushing things a bit? Perhaps a subject for another thread, but interested to know what you think EDIT - Sorry for O/T guys, need new thread ausie300pro

Sounds well blinged up ausy300pro Got your forks sorted yet ?

Hi ausy300pro Just for your info, I counted the range of damper ajustment (I have fully adjustable Paoli's like you) and mine has 33 clicks. Good luck and let us know how you get

I can almost taste the Timothy Taylor's....a bit sad as it's not even 10.00am! I'm glad to hear the carburation is sorted. In my experience it's the thing that people struggle with the most (me included till now). Don't be worried about flooding. I bought a new needle valve and seat (under a fiver) as a starting point and have never had any flooding problems. I'm assuming that you have fully adjustable Paoli forks, yes? (Not all Paoli's are fully adjustable and later bikes had Marzocchi's). You know the Hells Team link I posted with details of the fork set-up? I'm 11.75 stone and I use four turns of pre load (that is pre load wound right out and then four turns in) and eight clicks on the damping. You say that you have had both adjusters wound right out? The damping adjuster knob has very positive "clicks" and there are about 30 in all. Wound right out = hardest possible damping setting and I wonder if that is your problem. The damping is measured from the fully wound in setting, so wind it all the way in and back it out about eight clicks. I hope it's as simple as that, but nothing ever is lol! Apart from that, if there was loads of gunk, I would strip them down and give them a good clean. There's loads of intricate valving in the forks and I could imagine this becoming blocked. If you do give them a good clean you then know that's not the problem. Putting the correct amount of oil in is also important. Apart from that all I can suggest is give Nigel Birkett a call. Good luck

So a drink's out of the question !! I'm sure you are doing the right thing. At least if you follow my set-up you start from a proven base from which to work. The cough and hesitation drove me seriously nuts when I first got my bike and it took me months of trial and error to get it ironed out, but it was well worth persevering. I mentioned the clutch mod earlier. Once you have the engine running right, the clutch mod is the next most important thing to getting it sweet to ride. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

ausy300pro, mate you are going to owe me a big drink Personally, I think you are heading in the wrong direction focusing on the diaphram spring. I had the same problem as you as have countless other 125/175 owners and I have eliminated the problem (as have others). It took me months to get mine running right and I have suceeded, so why not try a proven set-up before going off on a new direction of develoment? Regarding fork oil - 5 grade. Regarding fork set-up, and you have fully adjustable Paoli forks here goes: http://www.thehellteam.com/catalogue/c11/c20/c27/c74 Edit - PS Don't waste your money on a 105 main jet. 102.5 is fine. My bike is much more powerful on the lean side, and how often are you throttle wide open on a trials bike? Not too often.

Sorry..........forgot one very important thing. Nigel Birkett recomends setting the float height at 18mm (measured with the gasket removed from the face onto which the float bowl mounts). I have mine set lower (higher) at 16.5mm so there is greater fuel pressure in the primary circuit. If you are interested, follow the attached link to a really excellent piece which explains the importance of carburettor float height. http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-15/how-set-your-motorcycle-carburetor-float-level-more-commentary-13608/ The float on the Mikuni VM22 carb hinges at the back. I also had a problem with the bike cutting out on steep downhill sections. I reasoned that when going downhill, because the float hinged at the back, the relative height of fuel in the float chamber (and hence the fuel pressure) dropped when going downhill. By raising the height of the float this offsets this problem to an extent (obviously, ideally what you want is a carb with the float which mounts centrally so that it is not affected by gradient). The resulting increase in fuel pressue may be why my engine runs better with a fuel crew setting of 1.25 turns and not the established setting of 3 turns. Anyway, just my thoughts which may or may not be total and utter cobblers, but it works for me!

Valve Clearances: Nigel Birkett did tell me, but I can

Hi I made my own flywheel puller quite simply with a piece of

And bo drinker, only

I had that 2008 200 saved in my watched items. Seems the link is still live. Check it out, seriously nice bike, copy and paste this link into your browser (you have to scroll down a bit to find it). This is a proper "Racing" version. Check the fork yolks out compared to the bike which was discussed earlier. I know which I would rather have http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230649924764?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649