beta rider

Just an update on this. I’ve had my 4rt bought new for about a year. The inside of the throttle body does in fact need cleaning. I’ve found the inside of the body, around the butterfly value had a light coating of oil. This is either air filter oil residue sucked from the filter, blowback from the engine (I guess that’s why the air filter has a fire proof mesh) or both. I easily cleaned this out with carb cleaner. As a note DON’T DO THIS! The solvent in carb cleaner affects the throttle body air pressure/temp sensor. It was a bitch to start at my next trial until I flushed enough air through the throttle body. Use specialist throttle body cleaner, which is designed not to effect the sensor.

I had an identical issue with my brand new 301RR. On laps 3&4 of a trial, where I wasn’t stopping to look at sections, the gear change was terrible and at times the bike felt locked into one gear. I couldn’t find neutral with the engine running while waiting at sections and if I stopped the engine, I couldn’t start it again when it was hot. I adjusted the tappets which cured the hot start issue (these really do need doing after the bikes first run in and every 6 months after). I did the washer adjustment on the rear of the clutch basket which massively improved the gear change, especially when the engine was hot. The washer needs adjusting every few months and I’m yet the find a way of stopping the free play (it’s only about 2mm) but it massively affects the gear change.

I am a police officer, so I’ve seen a lot of burglaries and I’ve had my own bikes stolen before. I use a Abus grinder proof d lock through the frame then attach an Oxford grinder resistant 22mm chain to both ends of the d lock and onto a floor anchor. The d lock’s material will blunt the grinder disk. Any chain needs to be hardened and ‘sold secure’ verified. A chain thick enough to resist a grinder attack for any length of time won’t fit through a frame. The weak link is the chain, not the lock. Even cheap locks are secure. Ultimately, you can only slow but not stop a theft. I’ve also put an additional alarm box inside the garage, which in such a small space is deafening. I have an electric roller shutter door which is as secure as anything. Normal garage doors can be bent open at the bottom. Scumbags used to use a car jack to force roller doors open from the bottom. The new roller doors have metal frames to stop this. I also park my car in front of the garage door. A decent ‘sold secure’ door, ground anchor, chain, lock and alarm will deter most thefts.

As an update, the right crankshaft seal was changed which stopped the transmission oil leak into the engine oil.

I’ve found the dealer more than difficult to engage with. After several phone calls without any response and a number of emails, I’ve eventually been informed they’ll ’contact Honda’ to seek advice. I’m not holding my breath. To be honest, I just want the bike repaired and I’d pay or do it myself. They are competition machines and they do breakdown. It’s worth measuring your oil levels during a change. There are a number of threads now about the crankshaft clutch seal failing. I changed my clutch plates to a Mitanni pack (which cost £££) after a couple of months owning the bike because of poor gear change, struggling to find neutral and problems starting in gear. I’m now thinking I was just running with low gear/clutch oil.

It’s not a filtration issue - I’ve changed filters and the filter is coming out with oil. It’s a 2024, bought in October 24 and not part of the recall. i realised insufficient gear/clutch oil was coming out during oil changes and started measuring the oil I was taking out.

I have a new Montesa Repsol which is losing 100ml of transmission oil per ride from the clutch/gearbox into the engine oil. I’ve drained and measured the oil levels to confirm this is happening. I know it’s a warranty issue but I live hours away from the dealer and I’m looking for a fix to keep riding. Does anyone have experience with this? I’m thinking it’s a faulty crankshaft seal?

Hi, I’m about to buy a 4rt. How are people cleaning the fuel injection throttle body. Is it similar to a carb where you use carb cleaner or an airline to clean it out after a ride?

Help with my front forks! I have a Sherco 08 and oil appearred to be leaking from the oil seals on both forks. The oil was weaping onto the upper forks when they were compressed and would run down one of the lower fork legs if the bike was left for any length of time under its own weight. A pool of fork oil was appearring under one of the froks on my garage floor. I have changed the oil seals on both forks using good quality seals. Oil is still leaking from the seal area on the forks. I left the bike overnight after changing both seals to find oil still leaking down one of the lower fork tubes. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

I have a 250 Sherco and I'm looking to change the front fork spring to a slightly stronger one. I'm happy enough with the compression damping but I'm looking for a slightly stronger spring to set the front fork sag to the correct level. I'm 13 St and cannot set the sag to the recommended level (1/6th of the full travel with me on the bike) even with the pre-load adjuster screwed right down. I'm using 5 wt fork oil and thought about going up to 7.5 wt, however this will presumably just make the fork compression and rebound slightly firmer but do nothing for the sag level. I've also considered making my own pre-load spacer for inside the fork tube out of some strong upvc piping or something similar to compress and strengthen the spring which should get the sag to the correct level. However I'm then overly compressing the spring which reduces the static sag to less than the recommended level (about 10mm). Looking through internet sites, there is a multitude of aftermarket fork springs available to suit almost any size. The Sherco fork spring is linear (i.e the coils are evenly spaced) but I've also seen variable rate springs, where the damping becomes progressively firmer at the end of the forks compression which seems to make more sense. I would rather order and fit the spring myself than send the whole fork off to a suspension tuner to keep the cost down. Anyway, my question is does anyone know the spring rate (Nm) of a standard Sherco fork spring or even a normal trials spring. It would be a handy starting point to look for other spring options. Thanks in advance.

Hello, I had exactly the same problem with my Sherco. I found it impossible to compress the spring while the bike was standing upright. By laying the bike on its side, it gives you more leverage and it becomes pretty simple. Good luck.

Help needed! I disconnected my rear brake master cylinder (the part connected to the frame - not the reservior) to fit a pair of new carbon frame gaurds. To be honest I'm a bit disappointed with the gaurds - the master cylinder holes had to be filed out to make it fit as they were out of line etc and the air box cover certainly does'nt fit as it moves the rubber air box to carb hose out of line. On reassembling the bike with the frame guards in place the master cylinder appears slightly out of line compared to the brake pedal piston. I've had a good look and this appears to be a manufacturing tolerance in the cylinder and has probably always been there. After bleeding the rear brake I have lost the free play in the first 5 mm of the pedals movement. The pedal is slack and has simply dropped down the 5mm, although it can be lifted up by hand. Also the pedal is slow to return after the brake is depressed. Having said all that the effectiveness of the brake is still pretty good. Immediately after the installation I depressed the brake pedal and it completely failed to return to position. The piston in the master cylinder appearred to be stuck and the only way I could free it was to force the rear brake pads apart. Any ideas how I return the brake pedal to its normal position and return its movement to what it was before? I've tried bleeding the brake until I'm pulling my hair out and I dont think its air in the system. Thanks.

Can anyone give advice on the best fork oil weight for my 07 Sherco. I'm about 13 St and considering probably 5 or possibly 7.5 Wt. My Sherco manual advises SAE 4 (which I presume is 4 Wt for the light weight Spainards and seems unobtainable over here). Does anyone change their oil weight depending on the time of year i.e lighter oil in the winter? Thanks.

Sorry! I will learn to type property and finish this post! Under section 59 of the Police Reform Act 2002, a police officer in uniform may give you a warning if 1/ the driving of your vehicle is likely to cause harassment, alarm, distress 2/ you a guilty of careless driving OR 3/ you are driving on ANY land without the land owners SPECIFIC permission. If you are given another warning within a 12 month period then your bike can be uplifted by a contractor employed by police and stored by them. It CANNOT be immediately crushed and you dont pay a 'fine' to have it returned, however you will pay the cost of removal and storage (as mentioned about

As mentioned above under section 59 of the police reform act 2002 you may be given a warning by a police officer in uniform if :- 1/You drive your vehicle in a manner likely to cause harassment, alarm, distress