Hi Will, that's where I found the bits, much bigger than the brass washer in the strainer, puzzled me where it has come from. Can't think where or what is was to end up in the sump ?
Hi have you checked the big end bearing the brass washer looks to have roller marks on it.
Spud you seem to be having a dig at me when i mentioned i ride i TRIFIELD trying to say i am cheating .For your information when i competed in the northern bike championship i entered in the specials class i knew my bike was modified and did not try to hide anything.You also seem to know little about pre 65 competitions when you keep mentioning trick trifields ,if you go to any trial and look at the bantams and cubs then it makes most trifields look prehistoric.
This was discussed at some length in the 'Original Pre-65 Class' thread. It simply boils down to the fact that it is more enjoyable when you are able to compete, as in on equal terms, than not. I think Deryk pointed out that his entries rose dramatically when rules to separate out specials from originals were introduced, re-inforcing the point that fair competition counts.
It is not about routes, as the rules state, the routes remain attached to a class, not the sub-class. It is the sub-class that identifies the type of bike, ie Original or Modified. And for me, I am not focused on winning, but I do not like competing on an unfair basis, I find competing on an unfair basis far less enjoyable and in the case of pre-65 trials, totally unnecessary.
Funnily enough, from memory, I think that I have noticed some pre-90 classes, perhaps it was with twin-shocks vs monos in mind. Anyway, I have only entered events on the pre-65 and modern bikes throughout my life. For the twinshock classes, whilst I have ridden twinshocks when they were the modern thing, I haven't yet wanted to re-visit those bikes but I find it great that others do find enjoyment there.
Well, the bike was chosen 30 or more years ago and is competitive against similar machinery of the period. This is the whole point. In the intervening decades, and increasingly over the last decade, the rules governing machinery have been broken, not enforced or have not existed, now this same bike has been made uncompetitive, not through choice but because clubs or governing bodies have failed to introduce and enforce rules, simply because it is being asked to ride against bikes which have no real resemblance to a pre-65 bike, and the exact metrics of that have been properly detailed earlier in the thread.
If one has to aportion blame, then you have to level that blame mostly at those that have slowly allowed the bikes to get to the stage they are at without doing anything to stop them. Ultimately, if riders are allowed to cheat, some will, then others will feel forced to follow. Many will find cheating abhorrent, but some will see it as a justifiable indiscretion in order to win. And now, and for the last few decades, and as a direct result, the entries of original bikes are falling, and fast. And not by a few, but catastrophically so, again as detailed earlier. Yes, the Yorks club is successful, but perhaps not with retaining the original big bikes and perhaps part of that reason is to do with the current lack of fairness rather than riders being too old or riders just not wanting to enjoy the day.
Brilliant. I think the evidence of few big bikes at the Yorks, anecdotal evidence from Deryk on the effect of separating the specials, my own experience, the evidence from the most prominent originals big bike event in the country, and the example quotes posted here, do all rather indicate that there is a problem which is causing riders to leave.
That is interesting, so would the bike you built conform to the Originals sub-class or the Modified sub-class? Does it have an original frame? If not, is the modern frame lighter, shorter, higher? Does it have an original engine? Is the engine modified? The clutch modified? Brakes? Electronic ignition? 'Replica' hubs? Aluminium tank? Sprung seat? Any titanium or carbon parts? Original carb? And so on. Or have you restored an original bike with minimum modifications?
In other words, are you expressing the situation where you are riding an original bike against modified ones, as described, as is the issue at hand that you say you are not bothered by, or is the bike you have built a modified bike in the first place and so you are not going to be bothered because you are not really experiencing the issue anyway (putting the possibility of you not wanting to gain any enjoyment from competing to one side)?
One more thing. For many years, a couple of decades even, I did just take the hit, not worry and each year the gap got wider, I have watched as heros were made of riders on highly modified bikes and others be almost ignored despite being miraculously victorious on original bikes, a vastly more admirable achievement. It has seemed for a long time that it was not just that original bikes were being disadvantaged, but they truly were not as welcome to enter or wanted to enter. Why have there been no supportable rules in place? There were rumblings of course. People unhappy and ignored and leaving. But now, the gap is ridiculous and the situation is declining rapidly and really, if nothing is done, then there will be no original pre-65 bikes competing at all, and that, more than for just me, would truly not be a proud day for this sport.
All the best, TTSpud
Hi TT spud Yes my triumph is modified with an enfield frame but it is still a very heavy bike. The only way to have a truly fair competition would be for every one to ride the same bike. Even back in the day some bikes were better than others in standard form as most were converted road bikes.The part you wrote about old age not being anything to do with the lack of big bikes ,try getting into trouble big time it hurts a lot more with a big bike.Do you want to drop 300 pound plus on you if you are in your 60s.
Wow, well done for having the courage to be so honest (and attracting multiple 'likes' to the same opinion so quickly, it seems you are not alone).
I believe that your club is the Peaks club which has utterly loose rules allowing basically anything under a pre-65 or 'classic' banner, almost any modification goes, now I understand why, you have a deep distaste for the original pre-65 bikes. To you they are not just 'inconvenient', they are unenjoyable and their riders are masochistic. I really hope that you are joking or have downed more than one bottle of wine this evening.
To me, it is amazing that you can run a classic club with the honestly held belief that no-one could enjoy the sport as it was designed to be, that is mostly riding original big, heavy, long, slow, loud, pre-65, British, four-stroke bikes. Are you sure this is the sport for you? If you cannot handle these bikes and believe that others that can are mad to do so and in need of A&E, perhaps you would be better off in the modern clubs where you can ride a much lighter, easier to handle machine, rather than trying to make pre-65 bikes into modern bikes that they were never meant to be?
To me, you have described a common oddity amongst those modifying their bikes to such an extreme degree. Why don't you just ride a more modern machine, rather than mutilating a pre-65 bike to be something it is not. If you hate the heft of an original pre-65 bike, perhaps consider buying a modern one and riding it in modern events, and at the very least, do not run a club and effectively make it next to impossible for an original bike to have an enjoyable day because of a lack of support for rules which allow them to compete with similar machinery.
i do not think it is a very good advert for any club, or the sport, to be so openly anti the riders that still ride the original pre-65 bikes, without such bikes there would be no integrity in the pre-65 sport at all. I am still amazed that you can say what you did without realising how damaging that viewpoint is, it is not 1st April until tomorrow, so you cannot even blame it on that.
Well, at the events I have been to, there are always a lot of people watching. And they usually come to see the big, original pre-65 bikes, because they sound good, look good and represent a piece of British history. I for one care about other people's wishes and try to consider how I might affect them. Also, it is sometimes the case that those watching those events show an interest in the bikes and sport, ask questions and so on, and from that can develop the interest which results in new riders joining the sport, and that too is a reason to value spectators.
If I am riding in a pre-65 event, then I enjoy the fact that the people watching are getting something out of seeing and hearing these wonderful bikes, as I do. If you do not realise how wonderful some of these old bikes are, then you are very much in the minority amongst those that I have witnessed watching such events.
Wow. There are no words to express how inappropriate that is. But it does explain a lot.
Hi TTspud i think you have forgot trials is a test of man against the course Peak Classic and many other clubs run trials with lots of routes some you could ride on a road bike.So why not just pick a route you can ride and have a good days sport.or do you want a trial and route just to suit your chosen bike to give you a chance to win . If you rode modern trials and bought a 1990 bike would you want your own route so you do not have to compete against 2015 bikes. You chose your bike just ride it ,do not blame the clubs because it is not competitive . By the way i ride a triumph twin and it dose not bother me that i have to ride against cubs and bantams i built it for the sound and enjoyment.
Hi i had the same problem on my fantic . I tried different rim locks but no improvement . I then marked the tyre and rim with a marker pen and found it was not the tyre that was moving.It was the tube moving inside the tyre.The cause was the heavy duty tube fitted,when running with low psi the tube came away from the tyre.I fitted a normal tube and have had no problems in over a year .
Hi i have a 240 with a 309 engine.I am looking for the bolt on flywheel weight.I have read that the weight can be adjusted but can not find any information or photos,also will the weights fit off other fantic models 305,307 etc and what is the best set up weights fitted or removed thanks.
Hi unless rules have changed you are not allowed to use reh,mp,ceriani parts at some trials. also it costs a lot more to build up a cub wheel than use a standard twinshock wheel. A set of moddified forks are also a lot more than forks you can pick up at the brakers for next to nothing and when fitted look no more modern than the trick stuff.
Spot on Woody,i built my "pre 65" bike using the same kind of parts as yours .If only more people would do the same instead of getting hooked up on the idea of having to use mega expensive aftermarket parts because it is the "thing to do". Just build a bike and ride it in what class and where you can.
Hi when i fitted the pvl to my triumph twin all the spacers were wrong .The crank spacer i turned down untill the crank nut would fit fully on.Then i adjusted the stator spacers untill the stator ran central with the stator.
Hi again i think you are looking at the wrong thing with the carb and vents.I still think it was the head leaking which would increase pressure in the cooling system forcing coolant past the pump seal into the gearbox.The broken pump most likely happened after ,as when the engine was running coolant would have been flowing from the pump up to the cylinder,the engine would have stopped before the metal fragments reached the pump.after the engine stopped the fragments could have dropped down to the pump and when he tried to restart the engine it would have stripped the impellor threads.
Hi looking at the colour of the head and piston plus the lack of carbon deposits,also the o ring and markings around the water ways i would say the o ring was letting water into the combustion chamber which then lead to the over heating and head failure.
Hi as mick says could be to big a carb but it should still run with the carb you have.If by tickling the carb it restarts you are not getting fuel to the float bowl.Try running the bike untill it cuts out then turn the fuel of quickly then remove the float bowl and see how much fuel is in it.
Hi i would first check the fuel flow from the tank to see if the tap or vent are blocked.If there is a good fuel flow from tank check the fuel filter on the carb in the white plastic housing where the fuel pipe pushes on.
Some people worry about things that may never happen; catastrophic global warming, asteroid strikes, zombie uprising etc. but I can't help thinking about the dropped bike scenario where the engine tries to rev itself to death .
A few recent posts have touched on the subject, citing dead-man's cut outs and the like but I've seen a few 2-stroke motors completely ignore the kill-switch on their way to death row.
Never mind 'What would Jesus do?'
What would TC members do?
Please vote and discuss, any real life experiences or remedies could affect my sleep patterns :-
Hi block the exhaust, pulling the ht lead will not stop it and can damage the cdi,Turning off the fuel will cause a weak mixture and could result in a engine failure, top gear and brake could work if still on the bike but could be hard to change up to top gear with engine flat out .Best combo is kill switch with blocked exhaust.
Point taken. Just trying to better the bike where I can.. There must be something in it mind. Was looking at the airbox on my 300gg earlier. They are trying to squeeze every square inch of capacity out of the the box. Mind you, on the gg you need that to catch all the s..te that gets in there!
Hi my opinion on the air box size is that on road or race bikes a large volume air box provides still air for the engine.On a trials bike you are not traveling fast enough to cause any problems .Just make sure the air box inlet is not restricting air flow at full throttle.
just a thought why not swap the tyre from the Trifield over to the Fantic and the tyre off the Fantic onto the Trifield wheel then try and see if the problem follows the tyre or the wheel. OK i know it's a lot of hassle but i cant think of anything else to suggest.
I will probably have to do that Paul just wondered if anybody has had a similar problem.
I remember the diameter discussion but I've no idea how you would accurately measure the ID of a tyre.
Is this the first tyre you've fitted to this bike - If the bike is relatively new to you are you sure it hasn't been fitted with a tubeless rim?
I'm not implying that the tubed tyre can't slip, just trying to think of other possibilities.
Yes tube type rim i have the same kind of fantic wheel with irc on my triumph twin i only use one security bolt with that and the tyre has never moved.
You don't say which Fantic wheel it is. From the 303 model range to the K-Roo they had tubeless rims that looked just like tubes rims - a tubed tyre won't necessarily seat properly on one of those.
Any model prior to the 303 range had tubed rims.
Hi it is a 240 fantic,i think i read that some people had problems with irc tubeless being to big a diameter on the bead and wondered if anyone had the same problem with the tube type tyres.
I think you need new, better fitting clamps, set them in the rim and see how tightly they would clamp the tire. You might want to take your bare wheel to a store where you can try different clamps.
Hi i have already tried new clamps and still the same problem .
Hi i have a problem with an irc tyre on a fantic wheel.I fitted the tube type tyre just after buying the bike ,the problem is that the tyre turns on the rim i have tried new tyre clamps but it is still the same.I have another bike with fantic wheel and irc with no problems so not sure if it could be worn rim or faulty tyre.Has anyone had this problem with irc tyres.
Hi if the engine is leaking oil it has to be a joint not sealing .If the engine is wet sumping it will fill with oil from the tank but not leak out,you can tell upon start up as the engine will smoke until excess oil is returned to the tank.Also the pipe to the head check it is a breather pipe and not the rocker box oil feed pipe.
Well the answer is in the question really, it has to be "pre65 design" therefore if the hubs are off Mr Whitton and are of pre65 design there's the answer, now if I put bultaco hubs in the wheels from 70s or 80s then I'm asking for trouble? and if your getting at originallity then that's another subject which can be discussed at great length another time!
If your otter frame is a replica of the original then I would not feel guilty of putting 63 or what date it was originally manufactured on the entry form as long as your happy it's PRE65 DESIGN again it's simple really, tick the boxes and answer the questions it's not to difficult even I managed it? so no lying as long as it's pre65 design, if I'm not sure I will always ask someone in the know like Alan Whitton or any of the Yorkshire classic lads only because I'm relatively new to the trials scene ecspecially the pre65 one.
Good luck with you entry.
Hi could you explain the pre 65 design i can not understand why billet alloy hubs are any more related to standard ones than bultaco,fantic etc
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B25 Brass Washers
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
Hi have you checked the big end bearing the brass washer looks to have roller marks on it.