nzpeterb

feetupfun, Thanks for the reply and kind offer. I was hoping someone might have a suitable pedal in a box somewhere. Alternatively I was hoping to find and modify a Bultaco road bike pedal. At this stage any photos and dimensions would be good and, given previous owners modifications I would also be very keen on photos and dimensions of the frame brackets for the brake pedal pivot and side stand pivot. Regards, Peter.

Hello all, I have been lucky enough to purchase a 1968 Bultaco Sherpa Model 27. It has not run for 15 years and needs a full rebuild. The previous owners have made some odd modifications such as mounting the stand on the left side and looks like they were going to have the brake and gear change on the right side. At present I am trying to collect the correct parts to put the bike back to original. One item I cannot find is a left side rear brake pedal. I know some new replacements are sold with a serrated pedals like a more modern bike but the original has a solid pad more like the brake on a normal road bike. The length is short being 175 mm (7 inches) from the centre of the pivot pin to the centre of the foot pad. Any leads much appreciated. Regards, Peter.

Thanks Arnoux. I could not work this out until I got it apart as there is only two turns of thread and it was difficult to see. The thread on mine is M18 x 1.50 pitch so Metric fine. Hope this information helps someone else. regards, Peter.

Thanks for the reply. Heating it a couple of times got the basket moving slightly. Then pushing the basket in and out slowly gained more play until the inner hub popped free. It seemed a lot tighter than the 07 we also have. Anyway, thanks again. Next is knocking the kickstart bearing out. i am trying to reduce the wiggle in the kickstart shaft which is way worse on the 14 than the 07. Regards Peter.

I have a 2014 TXT 250 and want to remove the clutch hub and basket to get to the kickstart bearing. I have the clutch centre bolt and washer out but even with a heat gun I cannot get the clutch off the shaft. The parts book doesn't seem to show anything extra, and I know from experience the earlier basket just pulls off. To I need to resort to more heat (a flame) or have I missed something? Anyone have any ideas? Regards Peter.

Hi Ian, I don't think there is a 250 manual on line. Are you making any progress with sorting your bike? Regards, Peter.

Thanks for the reply. I will see if I can get it apart. regards, Peter.

hi all, My Fantic 200 tank cap is made of two pieces which are now so wobbly together that the cap is always coming loose on the tank. I am trying to see how to get it apart to see if I can remedy. Does anyone know how they come apart? Or is this the point where I need to find a new cap? Does anyone sell replacements? Regards, Peter..

Hi Bruce, I assume you are suggesting swapping fork legs in the existing triple clamps. From what I can see the fork legs on 250 and 350 are both 36 mm so you should be able to swap them out. Kick start levers also look to be the same. Note there are two versions. Steel for most, but aluminium for bikes originally sold in Japan. Looking at the codes in a 350 parts book suggests the following differences between 250 and 350: - Cylinder, cylinder head, piston and gaskets. - Reed valve. It looks like only the stops are different. - Carburettor jets and float? Same carb body though. - Stator and flywheel. - The lower fork triple clamp. Unsure of the difference here but the part number is 350 specific. Gearbox gears are the same for both models. Regards, Peter.

Pete, Thanks for the reply. The bike had Boyesen reeds fitted by the previous owner. Took it on a trial today and bike actually went pretty well. (In New Zealand there is an air cooled mono class). Still a few things to sort out including the carb, and rear shock linkages, and try and find a better seat or replacement seat pad. Regards, Peter.

Hi Pete, Thanks for the reply. Have established I have the 250 flywheel and the sluggish performance which I thought might be the heavier 350 flywheel was due to the carburettor. I found a blocked pilot, partly blocked needle jet and wrong needle jet and needle. Cleaned out the carb, dropped the needle one clip at a time till it was 2 clips lower and all of a sudden the bike is peppy and responsive. Will have to order the correct jets and should be all good. By the way the 250 flywheel fitted does not have the metal outer ring that is fitted to the 350 flywheel so I can now tell the difference. Regards, Peter.

Hi all, I have just purchased a TY250. When it arrived the numbers indicate its actually a 1986 TY350 frame and engine bottom end with a 250 barrel and head. What are the differences in the bottom end of the 250 and 350 engines? Do they use the same flywheel weight and gear ratios? For example I thought the 350 had a heavier flywheel? Regards, Peter.

Hi all, I own a 2004 Scorpa SY250, the one with the Yamaha engine. The bike has 38 mm Paioli forks and one tube is pitted and scored. Does anyone know a source for new tubes from anywhere in the world. Getting tubes rechromed in New Zealand is expensive and the companies take months. so I would prefer to purchase new or good used. Regards Peter.

Hi Lone Trialer. Go to the following link http://www.thehellteam.com/catalogue/c11/c228/c21/c49 Copy and paste it into your browser. This link is for a 2004 parts manual. Basically the same bike. What is good about this parts book is the 4 digit part numbers are Scorpa parts, but the longer part numbers, at least for engine parts, are the Yamaha part numbers. Just put a new clutch in mine and the plates, bearing, and gasket were all ordered through my local Yamaha dealer. Unfortunately this does not apply to fork tubes and one of mine is needing replacement. Hope the manual helps, regards, Peter.

Not sure if this helps but I have a 1981 Fantic 200 (FM350) On this model the 125 and 200 (really 156) are the same except the piston, barrel, head, and carb. The early 200's used 32 mm forks and the later 200's used 35 mm forks. The manual for the 32 mm forks indicates 190 ml (6.7 oz) of 5 W oil. The 35 mm forks use 220 ml. I run mine with 10 W oil. Hopefully this gives you somewhere to start. Regards, Peter.

Hi all, Thought I would try a post here. I had previously posted this question in the aircooled mono section. I have just purchased a TLM200 which has a tired motor. I am looking for a parts book either scanned or a hard copy to be sure when I strip the engine that I am ordering the correct parts. No dealers in my area have a parts book despite a few being bought into the country by Honda. Any help appreciated. Peter.

Nick, thanks for the link. The manual will help but I would still appreciate a parts list for the actual model so I can try ordering parts. Apparently Honda imported some TLM200R's into New Zealand new but despite this I am told they don't have a parts list available. I see you are a Fantic owner. I have a 200 which I bought after deciding a TY350 was not a bike for trials beginners. regards from NZ Peter.

Well at least you provided a reply to my post Sorry but I am neither the real or a pretend Peter Birch. You will have to enlighten me on his claim to fame. regards, Peter Barnett

Picked up a 1986 Honda TLM200R to provide a back up to the TLR. The chassis appears good but the motor needs work. I have searched for a supplier of parts books but found nothing. Does anyone have a copy either as a file that can be emailed or a paper copy? Happy to pay for postage and copying costs. Regards, Peter.

Thanks spud 1968, Woody, and bilc0, for your replies. The forks on my bike are 35 mm and I had put 190 ml of oil in each leg based on the Fantic 200 manual which I have a copy of. But the manual dates from 1980 and the bike from 1983. I now realise the 190 ml may be for the 32 mm forks and perhaps 220 ml, as suggested, is for the 35 mm forks. Looks like I simply did not put the right amount of oil in each leg. I will try adding oil during the weekend and see if this reduces the bottoming. I would be interested if anyone knows the original fork spring free length to determine whether they need preloading or spring replacement. There is enough free length that even with a short preload spacer they won't coil bind, though the extra oil may be enough to stop the bottoming, as otherwise I am happy with the fork movement. Thanks again for your replies. Regards, Peter.

While the front fork action on the Fantic is fine, I want to make some changes as they bottom harshly a few times each trial. The top caps have a spring loaded ball in them that releases any air so the forks don