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trialguy

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About trialguy

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    gcalsme@gmail.com

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  • Bike
    GG280 racing, ty175

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    vancouver BC
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  1. Don't usually feel any need to offer my two bits on most of these discussions but this is one I am strongly opinioned on... Hurray!! Get rid of no stop finally. In theory I get the idea of no stop, In practice it is impossibly inaccurate to score. The subjectivity involved makes for an impossible task and after seeing the gamut of rides that are rewarded with a zero score when in fact the rider did indeed completely stop to situations where a rider did not stop, or paused for a millisecond and is given a 5 on what in truth was a more worthy ride than another competitor are all too commonplace. Can you imagine how the scorecards would show if bikes were fitted with technology that saw a gps unit or similar that would register a "stop" (five) , each and every time a bike actually did cease forward motion? Not picking on anyone in particular but I might venture that even the master, Mr. B would end up with double or even triple digit scores with alarming regularity. With focus, any one of us can count dabs accurately, stopwatches don't lie and a riders score can be seen as a true and factual number. Eliminating all the nonsense of "did he or didn't he stop" or "it was just for a second... or was it?" or "man, what a ride, can't stomach giving out a five with that effort..." is the way it has to be if you want to have a contest where the results are meaningful and as close as possible to the truth. One last observation, if a trials competition is a test to determine the person with the highest degree of proficiency on a trials motorcycle then the thought of "fiving" a rider who had the skill necessary to leap backwards after missing the summit of a huge wall or step, land feet up and on the wheels and then go back up and over on a second try, seems somewhat ridiculous. Cheers, Guy
  2. Thanks to all the folks who have offered their insight, it's very much appreciated. Still no resolution, I've gone back to the original stator since it proved to make no difference with the new one. I've made sure the coil is perfectly grounded to the frame tabs by filing all the paint off and using conductivity paste. As well, just for certainty, added an extra ground wire from coil to engine. Running an 18 thou plug gap now and have confirmed all pins and connections are good (apparently). No noticeable improvement and spark still appears pretty feeble. Have the #55 pilot coming in tomorrow which won't help the spark but I pray it helps. Dealer has ordered a new harness which will be tried next as a long shot. still hoping and will update thread at first sign of anything positive. Thanks again all!
  3. Thanks guys, I'll go through the coil grounds (to frame) maybe adding an additional ground wire. May even try my 280 stator and even the big flywheel, not very likely but has been suggested that the small 125 flywheel might not have strong enough magnetism. Somethings gotta give, never been so frustrated with a bike, especially a new and shiny one!
  4. I'm at ropes end trying to sort out a very fussy 2017 e4 gas gas txt 125, bike only has about 5 rides on it by my 13 y/o daughter and it is safe to say that it is impossible to start for her. To her credit, the count of experienced adults who either can't start it or have extreme difficulty getting it lit, is now 5. For some reason I seem to be able to kick it over briskly enough to get it to fire, but this is not a very workable solution as if she's not with me she's stuck with a dead bike. If I'm with her then riding consists of perpetually needing to park my bike to get her sorted everytime she falls or stalls. A ma:jor pain generally. So, here's what I know so far: 1) Spark is very weak, unless you spin the motor very quickly (plug out and with hand or foot on kick lever) Anything less than rapid movement gives zero spark.Comparing this with my 280 of same year shows how weak it is, 280 shows a very nice spark with just a modest movement of kick lever with hand. 2) naturally, have replaced plug, platinum tip etc, made sure high tension lead is making good contact etc. Have swapped cdi *and coil *with the 280 with no difference which led me to the conclusion that the stator must be bad, wrong!! My first rate dealer, Dave of Gas Gas pacific quickly expedited a new hydria stator to me and I thought must have the problem beat but alas it's essentially the same.** As a side note, coil is the same part number between both bikes, CDI is a different #, obviously different mapping but functioned to give a spark (weak mind you) 3)Of course I've checked the carb, thought of trying a 55 pilot but the bike once running is perfect and besides, I'm already convinced the weak spark is the culprit. I'm hoping we can get to the bottom of this because it just isn't right and I'm about to pull my already thin hair out!! Thanks for any knowhow offered, Cheers
  5. Contemplating treating my little girl to the new gg 80 and wonder if anyone actually owns one and can report on how well it works. She's been on a 2010 cadet 80 (72cc) for a year and a half and I feel like the new bike which looks very nice and has a full 80cc gg engine in it may deliver a lot of smiles and satisfaction if she found herself astride one. I know they're expensive but she's worth it and has progressed to being a decent little rider. This new bike would only serve her another year as a 125 is waiting, but life only comes around once. Any actual experience with the radically changed 80 would be welcomed by us. Thanks very much! Guy
  6. Wow, that's quite a read (the Foale piece) thank you to all. One thing for sure, it seems that above all I need to lose the XR yokes and fit something with a lot more offset, reduce the trail significantly. Anyone have an idea how much one would have to lengthen the top frame tube to affect a 1 to 2 degree change in rake?
  7. Can't keep sliding tubes up in clamps as much as might be helpful because of the fender/tire coming into hard contact with the lower yoke as the fork approaches it's bottomed state.(running out of room) With regard to kdx220 piston, yes-bore and pin diameter are right but crown is about 1.5mm higher than ty and would likely hit head at tdc, not such a big deal to machine it lower as there's a fair bit of "meat" on that crown but the bigger hitch in using this piston is the major difference in the rear skirt. KDX has one smallish, round "window" dead centre while yam piston uses two rectangular "windows" for fuel charge transfer. It may have worked but I wasn't willing to take that gamble, thereby ruining a good cylinder by boring it to a size that no further piston options are available.
  8. Unfortunately I've tried sliding the forks up in the clamps a further inch and no improvement. It feels so ponderous that I thought that under load the headstock bearings were binding possibly but they turn out to be fine. I realize that rake is measured at the head but with clamps being parallel with steering head (unlike stock ty clamps) the angle of the tubes is naturally the same as the steering head in this case. Thanks for your inputs, I'll get it right eventually
  9. A couple more details important to the case of my ty project and heavy steering. 1) remeasured my trail and it seems to be 4.75" +/- and 2) The triple clamps although being in line top and bottom and mirroring stock ty head angle, have very little offset. About 12-13 mm (half inch) is how far forward of the steering axis the fork tubes are. centre to centre.
  10. Just took my heavily modified 78 175 out for its maiden run yesterday. Thrilled with how it runs and performs now but the chassis performance has gone all wrong. Hoping to get a new gameplan to make it work like it should. Steering has become incredibly heavy and floppy from side to side. I've lengthened the swingarm as per standard 1.5 inches +/-, lowered and moved rearward the pegs and moved top shock mounts forward about 2", running 13.4" betors. These mods are proven successful by many others already. Where it goes wrong is in the forks and if I hadn't already given away the wimpy (but working geometry wise) standard forks, I'd just put it back to stock... The forks on it now are 1980 xr200 35mm forks with leading axle and damper rods shortened to give 7" travel and a decent spring rate. These forks use clamps that have the tubes running parallel with the ty headstock (28 degree's) and the trail is achieved assumably by the leading axle design. I thought this was going to work great because the trail is about the same as stock (3.5") and the effective fork angle is now steeper than stock by about 3 degrees. should have worked I thought but in reality the front end feels incredibly heavy and all wrong. Not to mention but the lower clamp hits the frame and hinders greatly the lock to lock steering which I knew going in but could correct by relieving the clamp and or frame for clearance. That of course does nothing for my obvious geometry issue. I've powdercoated the frame and don't want to get into radical change like head angle altering etc. Anybody willing to suggest a doable solution would be greatly appreciated. Idea's I have are pre mono ty250 complete fork and clamp set, bigger tubes/ stiffer/sturdier etc. but with no improvement in steering etc. over stock or perhaps non leading axle 35mm fork legs in my current honda triple clamps (parallel with ty head angle) Or...? Please Help!! PS Thought I should make comment on the positive things that I've done on this bike which might be of help to others out there so here they are. Motor seems to work brilliantly, great feedback from a couple riders (experts with vast history in trials both vintage and modern) 68mm overbore dt/mx piston,(contrary to some forum opinion, kdx 220 69mm piston is NOT a workable option for a bigger displacement ty) mild porting as per post on this site, 1/4 reed block spacer plate and boyesen reeds, flywheel lightened by 18 ounces (from 6 pounds 2.5 ounces stock) and a self made carbon fibre and alloy rear muffler mated to stock ty stuff otherwise. Tried boring my stock ty 22mm carb to just under 24mm as suggested as possible by others... carb now junk as you can see light up the sides of the slide when looking through new larger bore. (the lesson here is that the dimension of the throat/bore of a round slide carb must be smaller (just) than the vertical bore (where slide goes) or else you have major air leak and a ruined carb. So, rather than buy a new carb, I thought I'd see if the flatside mikuni vm 28 carb that worked very well on a 89 beta tr34 that I owned 20 years ago would work. I thought I'd be in for a whole mess of fiddling and jetting etc. if it even happened to work in the first place. Common wisdom would say that a 28mm carb on a 181cc ty, is way to big. That said, I restricted the carb with an aluminum sleeve, installed as a friction fit into the engine side throat of the carb, thereby reducing the carb's venturi to a more appropriate 24mm. I'm happy to say that the motor works tremendously and I have no complaints with it. Very responsive, no bog or hesitation, lots of power and sounds great! (carbon muffler) (Carb jetting in case useful for anyone is 180rd main,15 pilot and 2.5 slide with middle clip position on needle) Gearing of 11/50 with 428 setup seems great.Other things of note are a homemade carbon fibre front fender and fork brace, using my gas gas stuff as the mold/pattern and homemade footpeg brackets featuring raga alloy footpegs and a slick little detent pin to hold right peg out of kickstarters way when starting. I'll attempt to post some pics of some of these items at some point soon.
  11. Thank you to both parties for the responses and now I'm conflicted... I wanted to move it because I thought getting it away from the temperature of the engine would be doing it (and the points that rely on it) a favour. Your point is well taken so maybe I'll hold off on this particular mod. Happy with my footpeg brackets I built today though! moved the (Hebo) pegs down about 40mm and back about 30mm. Also made a new seat cover in black vinyl, heat welded the two panels together and it looks as close to perfect as I need.
  12. Due to a bonk on the head or unresolved childhood issues with my Mom I've become inspired to screw with my 78 ty175 in all kinds of ways... There are not very many area's that are not getting messed with and we'll have to see how the end result works (or doesn't...) For now though I'd love some clarification on rewiring/relocating my new condenser under the tank or out of the Mag cover. For as long as I've had the bike it has run ok with 3 wires soldered to the top of the condenser. 1 to points, 1 to the lower/larger of the dual coils at the front side of the mag and lastly of course the black wire to the HT coil. With this move of the condenser to its new location do I simply join the wire from the mag to the wire from the points, then join a new long single wire to those two and run it all the way up to the condenser and then finally to the coil? It seems to me that it's that simple but on the other hand it seems goofy. Not to mention that it also seems weird to me that once you toss the two yellow light/horn wires that the only connection between the lower end and the top end is one measly black wire. Any guidance on this seemingly simple change will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  13. Looking for feedback on the upgraded gg cadet 80 with the new engine. My daughter rides a 2010 with the 72cc motor and have an interest in upgrading to one because they look great, though I've heard a rumour that the motor might be a step backwards in performance. Any enlightenment would be appreciated though my bias is Gas Gas bikes rule regardless... Thanks!
  14. Hi, I need a shifter drum for my 1978 ty 175 and would like to install the ty250 piston in my overbored cylinder to up the displacement to 192cc. Please advise which 250 piston I need, pre-mono or? Cheers, Guy
  15. Wasn't at the ssdt last year which apparently saw the change to 20 minutes(from 30) as the time we are allowed into parc ferme for bike maintenance etc. Can somebody confirm that this indeed is the new policy etc. Also, sounds like mandatory lunch stop is now 20 minutes as well? Please enlighten me! Thanks
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