1) That it's open to debate what a smaller or larger sprocket will do, I thought it was grade 1 bike stuff LOL
It's all about simple leverage principal, a larger wheel has more circumference covers more ground and takes more power to rotate, smaller wheel is easier (front spkt, rear spkt is opposite)
And I lied about 2) I think people change a front simply because it's cheaper than changing rear not because it is better, dropping a tooth on the front is like changing 3 or 4 teeth on the back
Hey!, if I grind one tooth off my front sprocket will bike go slower
All you need to do with a 2T is seat the ring without overheating it
This happens in the first 20 minutes, do a couple or 3 heat cycles where you get it just up to operating temp with very light loads and cool for 10 min
Then ride it like you normally would but don't exceed 75% of full load, like I say, 20 - 30 min is plenty, then a few short hard pulls with a cool down and you are good to go
A hard break in is ok but you need to be careful you don't overheat the ring, the wrong thing is full load low rpm use like hill climbing
Hmmm, 08 is the first year of Kei Hin carb, I wonder if it's shorter than the Mikuni and the spacer is to make it fit between the intake and the air box
I have seen reed spacers before but they move the reed block out from the cylinder, not the manifold away from the reed block
When it gets upside down you get air into the master
2 possible remedies
1) push the piston back into the caliper, all the fluid is forced back into the master and hopefully the air bubble too, these bikes push so little fluid it's a real pain to bleed it all through
Agree with Dad, cool running engines don't build carbon, the engine components (piston) need to reach a temp where fuel burns onto the aluminum, that's what carbon is
If the engine is cool it's clean as a whistle as it is eternally washed down by the fuel
Pistons should have carbon dot in the centre and a clean area as it approaches the edge of the crown
Carbon the the edge means lean condition (high combustion temps)
For what it's worth, from a point of view, I have seen this at least a hundred times
Fuel overflows, customer changes float height, sometimes several times with minor improvements
The reason the problem is not solved is that float height was not the cause in the first place
- bending the tang does NOT increase the leverage and sealing ability of the needle.......EVER
- lower fuel level cannot be attained if the needle is leaking, it just changes the time t takes for the problem to occur
If a carb is leaking, it is never the float height, it's that the needle is not sealing, perhaps the carb casting is not right, perhaps the needle is not right, perhaps the float is sticking, but certainly adjusting float height is not working and the next thing that could happen is the float height will be so low you could cause a lean seizure
The hardest thing is getting the tire to bite, get some speed, pull a little nose wheelie, push the back tire into the ground to make it bite and drop the clutch
If it bites it starts but best of luck with the timing LOL
Tip Of The Day
in General Trials Talk
Posted
BOOM!, there it is
Now you can tell the wife you tried this tape thing and now you have to decontaminate the transmission to save from catastophic failure
Thus actually increasing barn time