A decent engineer told me the same about buying after market exhaust. Who knows best small engineering firm or the actual maker of the bike. Often after market things can only shift the power out put lower or higher which maybe what some customers want.
I must admit the Arrow looks better than the ome.
On the other side, manufacturers need to adhere to things like noise emissions, parts costs, warranty costs, quality, durability, reliability, patent infringement and so on and so on
Most aftermarket companies don't worry about any of them, they simply make bolt on performance products
But another thing us consumers can't forget, most accessories exist simply because people will buy them, not because they actually do anything better or even good for that matter
It's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff sometimes
I have Bernie Schreibers book and he really has a way of putting technique into print, you can tell he has done a lot of training
The things he describes make a great deal if sense and it's not something you can see when watching someone ride particularly with regard to making the bike hook up or how to weight the bike in a climb
Helmet manufacturers have only recently started to explore "Crush Zones" similar to car impact testing
I think the biggest setback to our industry was Snell testing standards which rely related to static impact where a weight or puncture test was applied to a helmet and then submitted to a crush test
Not really applicable to a motorcycle crash but an adaptation from hard hats where a hammer falls from a building onto your head for example
There's a few brands using new standards thankfully but it will be a few years til the old ideas fade away
Clutches seem to last pretty good on these things, I thought I had a copy of the manual around but you can just view it on the beta site
Measure plate thickness but make sure you measure the free length of the springs, they can lose preload just from sitting the last 6 years partially compressed
While you have the clutch apart scrape the glue from between the plates, you can use a small file or an Exacto knife to remove it
Funny thing is.....it's just a surfactant, kinda like your dish washing detergent, as far as the science goes its really cheep and simple stuff but it actually works
Mostly it works at the point when the fluid boils and small bubbles form on the hot parts of the engine, when the bubbles form the coolant is no longer in contact with the aluminum, its insulation
The surfactant breaks down the surface tension so the bubbles are much less likely to form
Sorry, my post has no value whatsoever. I just have this "8th Grade Level" juvenile humor gene that becomes dominant when I read a funny comment like that......
My wife is actually the photographer in our family.
You post has significant value, the only thing that would make it better would be pictures of your wife.....
And I apologize everyone I have offended with this post
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Good info Charlie
Also heating metal and letting it cool without quenching is what takes hardness out of steel
Quenching with water in particular increases hardness
Heating to 400 - 500f is all it takes to soften steel, not really all that hot