Ok thanks. Interesting item that I've discovered on my machine is that the wires that attach to the two switches (lighting and ignition mode) were installed onto the opposite switch. I verified this using the wiring diagram from the owners manual. I thought this to be the problem so I corrected it by exchanging the outer contact plates/wires putting them onto the correct switch therefore it's actually the ignition mode switch (yellow) that toggles the fan on/off. Even so, there are still no lights and the fan only runs when the yellow switch is open. I fear that my bike was assembled by an amateur on the job for the first time. Next step for me is to see if there is any voltage at all coming from the rectifier. I suspect there is none.
(EDIT) I studied the wiring diagram more closely. I believe my switches were wired correctly and that the wiring diagram lists the switches improperly. #5 and #6 are actually #6 and #5 if that makes sense.
(Edit again) Found the problem today. The wires that connect the headlight to the wiring loom were shorting together. Once separated and properly insulated the headlight works and no longer shorts the wiring therefore the cooling fan works when the headlight switch is turned on.
harryharls, Have you resolved the problem with your electric system? I have the same symptoms on my 2014 factory 250 2t. Lights don't work and the cooling fan operation is dependent on the position of the light switch. I've checked all connections and the ground of the rectifier and the ground under the seat. I'm in need of help to diagnose the problem.
As the subject line says, I have a new-to-me 2014 250 Factory and the lights don't work. First place I looked to find the cause was at the light switch and found that one wire was cut off the switch and neatly tucked back into the sheathing tube. Any idea why?
I re-soldered the wire to the switch and still no lights. I'm most interested in finding the reason the wire was cut which may lead to a resolution of the lights not working. Previous owner has no idea.
So, I'm replacing the kickstart gears on my newly purchased 304. I understand the problem that causes the failure is the weak "Z" shaped retainer that bends and allows the gears to misalign. Is there a good fix to the problem so it does not reoccur?
I've seen a photo of a strap that crosses the gear to retain it but am uncertain if it would be a suitable fix. Would like to hear of other ways to prevent the gears from misaligning.
I have a crack in the frame that needs welded. Is it safe to weld with the stator and other ignition components still attached to the bike or do I need to remove them? The crack is in the weld at the downtube / headstock joint.
I moved mine. I made brackets that bolted on to the existing footpeg lug. Toughest part of the project was making a new footbrake lever. Also made a new sidestand as the bracket interfered when the sidestand extended. Since then the bike was sold but I still have a tin pattern of the bracket.
monty348, my carb is marked "NS" instead of "BS". Are these essentially the same part? I didn't notice a vent tube routed to the airbox when I removed the carb (any hoses that may have been attached to vent ports at one time apparently rotted and fell off long ago), so I'm not sure which port I would route to the airbox.
You referred to the forks as "Foral". Is this the model? Google was of no help to me on this one.
Thanks again for the help!
Ah yes, it is a "NS". I stand corrected. IIRC the tube to route to the airbox is on the right side of the carb (opposite the choke lever).
I don't know who manufactured the forks but they were also used on the Aprilia Climber. PM me with your email address and I'll send you some literature.
The PHBH26BS on your Fantic has a port that appears to be a vent tube running into the airbox. It actually feeds air to the pilot system. Check that this tube is in good condition and not rotted or restricted in any way. There are two other vents, one on each side, that are connected via a small tube. This tube is cut open at the bottom so the vents can breathe.
The forks are Foral and will accept 2 seals in each leg. Helps to keep the oil in place. As already mentioned, 70:1 using high quality full syntectic.
For the low cost its worth a try, nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say.
I'm certainly not qualified to comment on a work around to replace the Ducati unit but will say that I "think" it's possible the rectifier may also have an effect on ignition timing.
I had one Ducati unit fail and the fan stopped working but the engine ran. Replaced it and a few years later it failed with no spark. There were burnt marks on the epoxy in different places. Right now I'm running my bike with the first failed unit but using a battery to run the fan. When you replaced the diode, did you have a spark but no fan or no spark?
well, there are two wires between the cdi and the reg/rec and 2 wires from the alternator directly to the cdi. the bike won't run with the reg/rec disconnected, but i don't think that necessarily means it can't be wired differently with separate modules or otherwise.
I think I'll try the $0.35 diode first...it's pretty obvious on mine which one burned out and will replace both while I'm at it. i think radioshack sells a circuit sealing lacquer spray. Maybe I'll seal it first with that then fill with silicone rtv (I don't know how silicone would affect any electronics). The actual potting/encapsulating epoxy is expensive stuff!
Note that the diode is directional. Installed the wrong way it won't work. Check that the RTV is approved for electrical components.
Im not familliar with the ducati system but that looks way too complicated and feeble, Must be a dual regulator rectifier and seems like a lot of bother all that just to power a fan or a couple of LED's if you have lights.
The later system with the 2 seperate units would do, or better still there will be people on the forum who could point you in the direction of similar parts that you could pick up for under a tenner and improve the system with some dead simple wiring.
It's my understanding, from what others more knowledgeable than myself have written, that this particular part not only rectifies and regulates the voltage to lights, fan, etc. but also controls the spark. When it's not working there's no spark what so ever. This is related only to the Ducati system.
Is this still working for you? What did you use to re-seal the circuit board?
Yes, still working. The initial repair was sealed with bees wax so it could be removed if the repair failed but the heat from the radiator melted the bees wax. It was then cleaned and re-sealed with silicon If I remember correctly. My son-in-law has the bike and he did the re-seal.
I've recently bought a Beta TR 34 Campionato, nice bike, but I try to put in order to "race". I've some questions, first of all,.....................does somebody know how to open, clean and close the aluminium silencer (big one)???
The bike runs so well, but the sound is too high.
Any advice??
See you.
A course file will remove the welds at the seams. Once it's open remove the packing and repack. DO NOT burn it out! The inner exhaust "tube" is not a tube at all but is stamped from a perforated aluminum sheet. It will easily melt. :-(
I just saw this ad on Craigslist. Any guesses as to the value here? Comments? Anyone interested in any of it in case I decide to take the 3hr drive to have a look?
I bought a 309 1.5 years ago and have been playing with it since then. It rides fine, plenty of power. Compared to my TR34 stripey it feels a bit heavy up front but not excessively. I prefer the TR34 but the Fantic is fine.
Revisiting this issue for those who may benefit. With the help of my electrical engineer brother-in-law, I've attached a replcement rectifier diode in place of the burnt out diode, bypassing the failed printed circuit. So far the repair has been a success. More time is needed to verify longevity.
I'll work on getting something to make the stripes out of and finding a close enough fluorescent yellow to paint the faded tank :-)
And oh by the way, I swapped on a Oko carb that my wasn't happy on my 240 and the 309 LOVES IT! smooth-smooth-smooth! and major bonus! Stopped all the Rattling! I'd rate it quieter than a TY yamaha now :-) No need to tear down and rebuild!!!!!!!
I'm lagging behind on getting stickers made. Should be sometime this month but I'm not rushing anything. I'm having tank, mudguard and swingarm reproduced as best as possible.
Yes, by all means do it. I started years ago, having never ridden off-road. Most every rider that you meet started as you are starting. We wobble and stall our bikes, fall off and get back on. Nobody gets upset with the new rider for we were all at that stage and can remember well the struggles. Most of all, have fun!
That's the one. Brochure colors don't seem accurate. The yellow has more of a lime tint to it in real life therefore the other colors are likely inaccurate. I'm trying to get as close as possible therefore the request for photos when new.
I'm hoping to have new decals (vinyl graphics) made for my 309 Fantic. I'm having trouble determining the original colors, especially the "FANTIC" logo and rear mudguard stripes. All the photos I find show faded colors. I'd be grateful for photos of this model when it was new. Also measurements of the rear mudguard decals.
The 307 manual I have is only the italian version - I dont have the separate translation sheet, but it is fairly obvious what is what (and there is always Google translate for the less obvious things). I have also attached the parts list.
Piston / cylinder letter codes
in Beta
Posted
Hello all,
What increments in size are indicated by the letters stamped on Beta piston and cylinders? In particular the 240 TR34 or just Beta in general.
Greg Myers
Paradise Pa