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About monty348

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  • Bike
    Beta TR34 Monty 304

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  • Location
    Paradise Pa. USA
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  1. Hello all, What increments in size are indicated by the letters stamped on Beta piston and cylinders? In particular the 240 TR34 or just Beta in general. Greg Myers Paradise Pa
  2. Ok thanks. Interesting item that I've discovered on my machine is that the wires that attach to the two switches (lighting and ignition mode) were installed onto the opposite switch. I verified this using the wiring diagram from the owners manual. I thought this to be the problem so I corrected it by exchanging the outer contact plates/wires putting them onto the correct switch therefore it's actually the ignition mode switch (yellow) that toggles the fan on/off. Even so, there are still no lights and the fan only runs when the yellow switch is open. I fear that my bike was assembled by an amateur on the job for the first time. Next step for me is to see if there is any voltage at all coming from the rectifier. I suspect there is none. (EDIT) I studied the wiring diagram more closely. I believe my switches were wired correctly and that the wiring diagram lists the switches improperly. #5 and #6 are actually #6 and #5 if that makes sense. (Edit again) Found the problem today. The wires that connect the headlight to the wiring loom were shorting together. Once separated and properly insulated the headlight works and no longer shorts the wiring therefore the cooling fan works when the headlight switch is turned on.
  3. harryharls, Have you resolved the problem with your electric system? I have the same symptoms on my 2014 factory 250 2t. Lights don't work and the cooling fan operation is dependent on the position of the light switch. I've checked all connections and the ground of the rectifier and the ground under the seat. I'm in need of help to diagnose the problem.
  4. As the subject line says, I have a new-to-me 2014 250 Factory and the lights don't work. First place I looked to find the cause was at the light switch and found that one wire was cut off the switch and neatly tucked back into the sheathing tube. Any idea why? I re-soldered the wire to the switch and still no lights. I'm most interested in finding the reason the wire was cut which may lead to a resolution of the lights not working. Previous owner has no idea.
  5. So, I'm replacing the kickstart gears on my newly purchased 304. I understand the problem that causes the failure is the weak "Z" shaped retainer that bends and allows the gears to misalign. Is there a good fix to the problem so it does not reoccur? I've seen a photo of a strap that crosses the gear to retain it but am uncertain if it would be a suitable fix. Would like to hear of other ways to prevent the gears from misaligning. Greg
  6. I have a crack in the frame that needs welded. Is it safe to weld with the stator and other ignition components still attached to the bike or do I need to remove them? The crack is in the weld at the downtube / headstock joint.
  7. I moved mine. I made brackets that bolted on to the existing footpeg lug. Toughest part of the project was making a new footbrake lever. Also made a new sidestand as the bracket interfered when the sidestand extended. Since then the bike was sold but I still have a tin pattern of the bracket.
  8. Seeing that you're in PA you may be able to source parts and advice from Diehl’s Beta Sales. Greg
  9. Ah yes, it is a "NS". I stand corrected. IIRC the tube to route to the airbox is on the right side of the carb (opposite the choke lever). I don't know who manufactured the forks but they were also used on the Aprilia Climber. PM me with your email address and I'll send you some literature.
  10. The PHBH26BS on your Fantic has a port that appears to be a vent tube running into the airbox. It actually feeds air to the pilot system. Check that this tube is in good condition and not rotted or restricted in any way. There are two other vents, one on each side, that are connected via a small tube. This tube is cut open at the bottom so the vents can breathe. The forks are Foral and will accept 2 seals in each leg. Helps to keep the oil in place. As already mentioned, 70:1 using high quality full syntectic. also a 309 owner
  11. I'm certainly not qualified to comment on a work around to replace the Ducati unit but will say that I "think" it's possible the rectifier may also have an effect on ignition timing.
  12. There was no spark before replacing the diode.
  13. Note that the diode is directional. Installed the wrong way it won't work. Check that the RTV is approved for electrical components.
  14. It's my understanding, from what others more knowledgeable than myself have written, that this particular part not only rectifies and regulates the voltage to lights, fan, etc. but also controls the spark. When it's not working there's no spark what so ever. This is related only to the Ducati system.
  15. Yes, still working. The initial repair was sealed with bees wax so it could be removed if the repair failed but the heat from the radiator melted the bees wax. It was then cleaned and re-sealed with silicon If I remember correctly. My son-in-law has the bike and he did the re-seal.
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