trevbul1

I'll have a look next time the plates are out. Too cold today! Cheers, Trevor

Hi Again I hope you can zoom in on these photos to offer a verdict - I've got a Dremel - type grinder but my greatest fear would be over-doing it - any insight you could offer would be greatly apprexiated, thanks! Trevor.

Brilliant, big thanks. I was thinking about changing the oil but didn't know what to repalce it with for the most promising results. Also I tried all three of the built-in clutch settings but I couldn't tell the difference at all! I'll try to find the time to photograph the plates tomorrow - at least getting them out is a quick job! Thanks again for your input. Trevor.

Hi All, I treated myself to a new Sincro but am gutted that the last point of clutch lever travel before full engagement is a light-switch effect that makes the bike jump forward - seriously annoying where you need to stay precisely on line in a tight turn. I have tried all three built in pre-sets on the diaphram clutch, but to no avail; the lever is not heavy on the fingers but the bite is too sudden to control with clutch slip I would normally use on almost any other bike. The bike has only done three hours on the original Liquid Moly oil. My old Evo wasn't like this. Please, any ideas at all? Otherwise I'll have to sell it and go back to either TRS, GasGas or an earlier EVO! Thanks and happy riding!

Cookiemonster, all sorted with Hastings now but thanks for the reply

Thanks to you both, v useful, I'll give it a look.

Hi Chris, thanks for your reply. As you say, MSM wanted £400 and I couldn't get anyone over the phone to insure the bike because despite having the V5 and the bike taxed, their computers didn't recognize the registration number. I had an inspiration and went to the Money Saving Expert comparison site that eventually allowed me to enter the reg number manually by listing the Sincro as a 2026 Evo. I then went back to Hastings, the current insurer of my TRS 250 EDIT: (quoting the MSE online referencet number) and added my new bike to my existing policy for £72 extra to the end of my policy in October 2026.. I'll worry about what happens next when the time comes... Bizarrely, they said that if I sell the TRS and remove it from the policy, the premium will likely increase! Cheers, Trevor

Hi, Delighted with my new 250 Sincro but the factory website says there are three variables for the clutch spring tension but no info on how to change them. Has anybody tried it out yet before I take the clutch cover off? Thanks in advance!

Hi All, I just purchased a Beta Sincro but because it is a new model, insurance companies haven't listed it yet. The bike is road registered and DVLA were happy to take my road tax payment immediately even though I can't use it on the road. Any thoughts please? Naturally I am particularly anxious to have the bike insured against theft if nothing else.

UPDATE: Thanks to a member on the FB TRS Owners Group I have discovered that instead of replacing the entire £42 bearing race on a 2022 bike of approx 100 hours, it should have been possible to replace only the garter spring part no 52902 (labelled No 15 in the exploded diagram on the TRS website) at a fraction of that cost. It seems that this spring is available on European TRS websites at 2,15 Euros but is not available as a part option on the SXS UK website. Do I have this information correctly, because if so I will buy it abroad if there is a next time! Just a heads-up for UK owners. I have written to SXS with this comment.

Update on my earlier post re my TRS starter mechanism making a loud knock as it comes to a stop. Forum advice (thank you, everybody!) suggested replacing the sprag (non-return/ freewheel) bearing which was supplied promptly by Steve Saunders SXS in Gloucestershire. The fault which develops is that the spring holding the pawls in the race stretches. A great shame that this design has not been improved and also that you cannot buy just the spring – the original bearing and pawls are still perfect with no sign of wear or stress. However what was not mentioned in the advice was that two of the pawls escaped from the bearing race whilst in transit and my ageing eyesight failed to detect that each pawl has striations on the outer surface that all need to face in the same direction – otherwise the bearing will grip in both directions, where it should only grip when rotated anti-clockwise. It took my son-in-law’s keen eyes to spot my error and it would have been a lot easier had I known what to look for in the first place. Hope this post might help somebody else in the future.

Update on my post re my TRS starter mechanism making a loud knock as it comes to a stop. Forum advice (thank you, everybody!) suggested replacing the sprag (non-return/ freewheel) bearing which was supplied promptly by Steve Saunders SXS in Gloucestershire. The fault which develops is that the spring holding the pawls in the race stretches. A great shame that this design has not been improved and also that you cannot buy just the spring – the bearing and pawls are still perfect with no sign of wear or stress. However what was not mentioned in the advice was that two of the pawls escaped from the bearing race whilst in transit and my ageing eyesight failed to detect that each pawl has striations on the outer surface that all need to face in the same direction – otherwise the bearing will grip in both directions, where it should only grip when rotated anti-clockwise. It took my son-in-law’s keen eyes to spot my error and it would have been a lot easier had I known what to look for in the first place. Hope this post might help somebody else in the future.

Thank you. I looked at a YouTube TRS video and figured this might be the issue though I don't much like the idea of removing the starter motor in order to replace it. Weird though, my nearest main dealer (sounded like a genuine guy) said he had never heard of it happening. Your reply very much appreciated, cheers.

Hi all, Has anybody suffered this and found the soloution? 2022 TRS One RR starts and runs normally but there is a VERY loud metallic 'clack' sound when you switch the engine off as everything comes to rest. The 'clack' is the last noise to be heard. Something to do with centrifugal pawls retracting maybe? Any thoughts gratefully received because something definately isn't right. This has only just started happening, it was all fine before. Thanks for all comments and happy riding, Trevor

Get it from the horse's mouth - phone a main dealer or the importer, in my experience they are usually super helpful especially since the databases are so much better these days. Cheers. Trevbul1