trevbul1

Thank you. I looked at a YouTube TRS video and figured this might be the issue though I don't much like the idea of removing the starter motor in order to replace it. Weird though, my nearest main dealer (sounded like a genuine guy) said he had never heard of it happening. Your reply very much appreciated, cheers.

Hi all, Has anybody suffered this and found the soloution? 2022 TRS One RR starts and runs normally but there is a VERY loud metallic 'clack' sound when you switch the engine off as everything comes to rest. The 'clack' is the last noise to be heard. Something to do with centrifugal pawls retracting maybe? Any thoughts gratefully received because something definately isn't right. This has only just started happening, it was all fine before. Thanks for all comments and happy riding, Trevor

Get it from the horse's mouth - phone a main dealer or the importer, in my experience they are usually super helpful especially since the databases are so much better these days. Cheers. Trevbul1

10/38 for me! I am an old-school greybeard rider with my first trials bike being a Bultaco Sherpa in 1978 that I used to ride to college weekdays and trial at weekends. I ride my current bikes 2 miles to my local practice ground on the road so 10/ 42 that my GG came with is too slow in top gear. I am 61 now and am not even going to try 'stunt' sections, I just enjoy proper nadgery through tight woodland sections. I now run 10/ 38, am much happier with that set up. I never use 1st gear and 2nd only rarely, I use 3rd nearly all the time except 4th & 5th between sections. Am I old-fashioned or has the sport changed dramatically these days that people want slow speed but quicker delivery? I just bought a TRS and the owner looked at me very strangely when I selected 3rd to pull away when I tried it out. Any other oldies care to comment? Happy riding, everybody. BTW, I maintain a list and have owned 46 bikes on and off road since I was thirteen.

I had not considered it that way, it makes sense; the GG feels much lighter on the handlebars so perhaps gives the illusion of being much lighter overall. Thanks for your input.

Just curious as to other people's thoughts. I am fortunate in owning both a 2021 Gas Gas TXT 250 Racing and a 2018 Beta Evo 300 2T for friends to use. I am a 60-yr old rider with strength issues following a minor stroke. To me, the Evo is very noticeably heavier tho' the internet puts the GG at 67kg and the Evo at 69kg. Although 2kg/ 4.4ibs is a considerable weight if you had to carry it around with you all day, to my mind the difference feels greater than that. Plus, the Vertigo Titanium is listed at 66kg. All that extra money for less than 1kg? Your having a laugh. So, is the difference I notice an illusion caused by frame geomentry and weight distribution or am I missing something? It is noticeable that for several manufacturers the posted weight for the same bike varies between different web pages. What I would confirm is that I choose the GG over the Evo every time; it is far less tiring to ride - excepting for the fact that the Evo starts first kick every time and the GG takes 5 or 6 swings, which is exhausting and frustrating, especially when stalled at the bottom of a muddy climb. Very interested in other people's opinions, thanks.

Just curious as to other people's thoughts. I am fortunate in owning both a 2021 Gas Gas TXT 250 Racing and a 2018 Beta Evo 300 2T for friends to use. I am a 60-yr old rider with strength issues following a minor stroke. To me, the Evo is very noticeably heavier tho' the internet puts the GG at 67kg and the Evo at 69kg. Although 2kg/ 4.4ibs is a considerable weight if you had to carry it around with you all day, to my mind the difference feels greater than that. Plus, the Vertigo Titanium is listed at 66kg. All that extra money for less than 1kg? Your having a laugh. So, is the difference I notice an illusion caused by frame geomentry and weight distribution or am I missing something? It is noticeable that for several manufacturers the posted weight for the same bike varies between different web pages. What I would confirm is that I choose the GG over the Evo every time; it is far less tiring to ride - excepting for the fact that the Evo starts first kick every time and the GG takes 5 or 6 swings, which is exhausting and frustrating, especially when stalled at the bottom of a muddy climb. Very interested in other people's opinions, thanks.

Big thanks, very useful

Big big thanks, v useful

It always used to be (I understood) that the 10th character of the frame number was the year of the bike However I have a 2021 (First registration, declared new) where the 10th character is 'M' (2013) and a friend has the letter ' 'H' 2008 but the bike is registerd as 2017. Anybody shed any light on any of this please? Did they have a glut of frames that they are still using up?

Sadly the VIN doesn't have a match.

Hi All, I have been offered a 2012 Evo, black/red with 2012 on the rear mudguard but want to be sure it hasn't been re-stickered. Does anybody know if there is a year code as part of the frame number please? Thanks for any help and happy riding.

I have a 2003 GG 250 TXT Edition and a 2021 TXT Racing side-by-side at the moment. I can tell you for sure that the 2003 bike is a good deal heavier but can't say by how much. Just take the rear wheels out; they are considerably different in weight on thir own. All I can say for sure is, being partially disabled, the new bike is a lot easier to ride for two hours, no question about it.

Hi All, Long story short, I have a 2021 250 TXT Racing and a 2003 TXT 250 Edition so friends can come out to play now and then. Obviously the new bike is lighter and I understand the factory spec to be 64kg I have been unable to find any data on the Edition, which I understand was a discounted model using older engines before the launch of the new TXT range in 2003 Does anybody happen to know what it weighs, please? Happily, it is still competitive at entry level and starts first kick, which is more than can be said for the 2021 bike, unfortunately! Thanks and happy riding.

One guy told me that the new E5/ E10 fuels can condense water droplets that won't atomise in the injector, blocking it, if there is a sharp change in atmospherics. Glad you could reuse the o-ring; never having worked on an EFI before, I did not dare separate the injector!

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED (with thanks to all) Following advice from various sources, I; Checked that the air filter was not over-oiled and that the fuel cap was breathing correctly. Drained the tank and removed the top banjo from the injector so I could soak out that fuel with a rag, replaced the fuel with fresh 99 octane and checked the fuel was running freely from the outlet. BTW, I met a guy once who had (evventually!) found that atheft-detection transponder had come unglued inside the tank and blocked the fuel line! Replced the plug with a brand new CR6EH-9 Reassembled and kicked it repeatedly with the plug out to hopefully draw throufgh the new fuel. Checked the routing of the throttle cable and lubed it to ensure that the throttle was fully closing with an audible click at the injector end. (I'm sure everybody knows by now that 4RT's only start on a dead throttle) Wound the idle adjuster out ONE FULL TURN anti-clockwise Replaced the plug and fully rotated the kickstart twice SLOWLY with the throttle wide open to reset the ECU; I know the jury is out as to whether this is a real thing or not, but it can't hurt. Carefully positioned the kickstart to find the top of the compression at the 5 to 12 position. Kicked it smoothly all the way down and held the kickstart against the footrest. It starts first or second kick every time now. I had to readjust the tickover speed once it had warmed up, so don't put the mdguard back on until it is running! Many thanks to all who offered suggestions and happy riding.

I recently posted that a friend's 4RT had a spark and a plug wet with fuel but would not run. Following advice from various sources, I; Checked that the air filter was not over-oiled and that the fuel cap was breathing correctly. Drained the tank and removed the top banjo from the injector so I could soak out that fuel with a rag, replaced the fuel with fresh 99 octane and checked the fuel was running freely from the outlet. BTW, I met a guy once who had (evventually!) found that atheft-detection transponder had come unglued inside the tank and blocked the fuel line! Replced the plug with a brand new CR6EH-9 Reassembled and kicked it repeatedly with the plug out to hopefully draw throufgh the new fuel. Checked the routing of the throttle cable and lubed it to ensure that the throttle was fully closing with an audible click at the injector end. (I'm sure everybody knows by now that 4RT's only start on a dead throttle) Wound the idle adjuster out ONE FULL TURN anti-clockwise Replaced the plug and fully rotated the kickstart twice SLOWLY with the throttle wide open to reset the ECU; I know the jury is out as to whether this is a real thing or not, but it can't hurt. Carefully positioned the kickstart to find the top of the compression at the 5 to 12 position. Kicked it smoothly all the way down and held the kickstart against the footrest. It starts first or second kick every time now. I had to readjust the tickover speed once it had warmed up, so don't put the mdguard back on until it is running! Many thanks to all who offered suggestions and happy riding.

Cable OK, no snags and throttle fully closing. wires reconnected after flushing tank with fresh 99 grade fuel. regret we don't know any other owners

Only had it 5 months. looked v clean when we bought it (suspension, brakes etc excellent), not so great under the tank we discovered, lots of dust and grime on the wiring

2007 standard 4RT 250 was running fine but first, suddenly would cut out when the throttle was touched and now won't start at all. Checked the air fllter, plug, fuel feed from tank (fresh 99 fuel); the plug is wet and it has a spark; doesn't make sense that it won't run. No changes made to idle speed, always used to start on a dead throttle and throttle is fully closed. Any thoughts please? I can't find anybody local with a diagnostic tool that won't charge me about as much as the bike is worth and reading the manual on diagnostics is gobbledegook to me, I barely understand one word in three... Bring back carbs and points! Any thoughts gratefully received, cheers.

Hi all, Looking at a 2018 Oset 24, are there any known faults I should look for and any way to check the health of the battery please? TIA

I've got one but it's really basic, hardly worth bothering with really. If you meant a workshop manual, sorry, can't help, but there is a YouTube video for most things you really need. I'd copy you my manual but unfortunately it is with my bike 500 miles from where I'm sitting and I won't be reunited with it until October, by which time, soz, but I will have forgotten all about you! Actually, just remembered my manual is a 2006 anyway. Ditto to previous reply, take a look at the GG website, there is an English version, just Google it. Cheers, Trevor

Sorry, can't help re TXT or Pro, though both my Pro's have had 'Pro' stickers on them - have you looked at the GG factory website, it's got an archive section (haha) for older models.. Was just wondering why you need the bike, I would have thought the John Deere would perform just fine. Bit of a bugger to get it on the car rack though...

Big thanks to everyone who replied - gotta love forums / YouTube! In a combination of advice I canted the bars to get the m/cyl as high as possible, slacked off the lever and left overnight. Presto, some pressure back in the morning. Next I did indeed wedge/ clamp three pistons in place forcing the fourth sticky one to move. Reassambled and re-bled normally. Now all I have to do is wear the spilt brake fluid off the pads and disc.... Really big thanks again to everyone for taking the time and trouble to reply with such thought. Happy sunny Bank Holiday everyone.

Hi. Just fitted new front pads to my Gas Gas 300. I had to push the (four) pistons as far back as they would go to get the new pads over the disc. But on re-assembly, the brake was spongy, so I bled it. Still spongy. So I bled it again using gravity to get the fluid through, and no, I didn't let the master cylinder empty... trouble is, I now have no brake pressure whatsoever and no amount of bleeding is bringing it back. Where should I go from here, please? Cheers for any help.