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al_orange

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About al_orange

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    2019 TRS 250 RR

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  • Location
    Somerset

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  1. We've all been there. I do like to make sure my bike is well up together, as then I know the issue is with me. But a little play in the linkage won't be a big issue. However, tyre edge in slippery conditions makes a huge difference. More so when we're learning as we rely on the tyre's performance more to make up for lack of skill. I know I do!
  2. In theory, it could impact traction but the effect will be negligible compared to tyre condition, tyre pressure, clutch/throttle control, and use of body weight, or even sag/spring settings, rebound setting etc. So no, it's not what is causing you to spin up.
  3. Bike of that age - I'd expect the binding to be caused by old seals and/or corosion in the grooves the seals sit it. My 01 was terrible for it and it took some effort to really clean out the grooves. Even when it looked clean there was still loads of crud to be removed. Might be worth a caliper rebuild and an ultrasonic clean or even replace the caliper.
  4. Every 10 hours Arbitrary number but it does look like it needs changing at that point Expensive stuff - Nils or Elf (TRS 250 RR)
  5. Leatt Elbow Guards I've got these in XXL and have very similar sized biceps although my forearms are not massive. The sizing is very accurate. Also, they are cheap in that link above. I think I paid £50 for mine and although that seems very expensive, I'd buy them again tomorrow if I had to. I wear them every ride and have given them some good knocks. I particularly like the hard plastic cups because it saves you from rocks nicely. You don't notice they are on when wearing them. After a few rides, they will need washing as the cuff gets a bit looser. But once washed, they spring back to shape. I find a bit of water/sweat will hold the silicone strip to the arm. The only time they have slipped down was when completely dry and stretched from being worn too many times.
  6. I would put the settings back to whatever they are in the manual for your altitude and temperature range first. Then, go one richer on the pilot and main if needed. I would consider a richer needle diameter too. That has made the most difference to the way mine rides. I think (but just from memory) I'm on 48pj, JJF Needle, Clip 4, 128mj. But I've got a drilled air canister and it might be a touch rich at the top now. I found fitting the richer needle makes the most difference and it pulls nice and cleanly under load but will always ring-ding-ding when coasting with clutch in (downhill etc.) I'd say mine runs as well as it can but it is down on power at the moment. I hope this is due to it needing a piston and not the jetting because it runs nicely otherwise.
  7. I would have thought a scooter cover may work, unless it's too short?
  8. Just make sure whoever you go with will actually teach you something and not just get you riding sections. I've had a number of "training days" and yet have learned very little in terms of technique. The most I've gotten out of them is riding sections that are more intimidating and therefore learning more about what the bike will do. Which obviously is a good thing but I'd say there is a distinct lack of real instructors around. I've picked up the odd tip but I want someone who will pick up the smaller details about body position and traction etc.
  9. al_orange

    TRS e-start

    If it's got a kick start and a lithium, I would recommend kicking it for the first start of the day as that will warm the battery up and also reduce wear/load on the starter mechanism for that start, which will be the one that take most umph.
  10. Yes, been using it for years and it's very popular in the LDT world. Wouldn't use anything else on my enduro or LDT bike. Not relevant for modern trials bikes but could be used nicely on older bikes with tubed rears.
  11. al_orange

    TRS e-start

    I'm guessing it's a lithium battery? If so, there's no need for a trickle charger. They will hold charge for months at a time no problems. Better to give them a full charge before storage than to trickle charge them.
  12. Interesting. Maybe it's the other way around in France but in pretty much the whole English speaking trials world (UK, USA, Canada, AUS at least), the definition of a "zap" is the use of the clutch to deliver a burst of power. In the case of a "jap zap" (often abbreviated to "zap") the zap is used specifically to attain rear wheel lift (generally in order to land the rear wheel on top or very near the top of the obstacle), in direct contrast to a double blip which (or a roll up) which relies on driving the rear wheel into the obstacle. It gets confusing because you can get rear wheel lift without the clutch - hence the difference between a double blip and a zap. Personally, I think there's more confusion between a double blip and a roll up as there is pretty much nothing a double blip can achieve that a roll up doesn't, but the double blip is more controlled and is used more easily when there is little run up or momentum. I prefer to think of a double blip as having two distinct and obvious blips - one to lift and then one to drive. Whereas, even in the Ryan Young video above, I'd call that a roll-up as there is a smooth delivery of continuous momentum. I believe he uses the two terms interchangeably. I'm not entirely sure why this issue is confusing or contentious but if it helps create useful and clear training videos then that's a good thing!
  13. That's really useful, thanks. I too have struggled to get any decent information on the zap. I can't do them very well at all. In addition to the clutch timing, I think your video also shows something equally important, which is you getting off the throttle - I think that's the bit I struggle with.
  14. I've just watched the BVM footage from the event. I'm sure there's a high degree of organisation and logistics involved but why on earth didn't they re-schedule it? Or it that just not done for GB events? Looks like a waste of time and effort for all involved. Sure, it's meant to be tough but I can't imagine anyone either riding, spectating, or observing enjoyed it in any way. Or is that not the point?
  15. Check the carb to airbox and engine rubbers are still fully connected and tight. You could have pulled them loose when you flipped it. Sounds like an air leak.
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