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About al_orange

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    2019 TRS 250 RR

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  1. al_orange

    TRS e-start

    If it's got a kick start and a lithium, I would recommend kicking it for the first start of the day as that will warm the battery up and also reduce wear/load on the starter mechanism for that start, which will be the one that take most umph.
  2. Yes, been using it for years and it's very popular in the LDT world. Wouldn't use anything else on my enduro or LDT bike. Not relevant for modern trials bikes but could be used nicely on older bikes with tubed rears.
  3. al_orange

    TRS e-start

    I'm guessing it's a lithium battery? If so, there's no need for a trickle charger. They will hold charge for months at a time no problems. Better to give them a full charge before storage than to trickle charge them.
  4. Interesting. Maybe it's the other way around in France but in pretty much the whole English speaking trials world (UK, USA, Canada, AUS at least), the definition of a "zap" is the use of the clutch to deliver a burst of power. In the case of a "jap zap" (often abbreviated to "zap") the zap is used specifically to attain rear wheel lift (generally in order to land the rear wheel on top or very near the top of the obstacle), in direct contrast to a double blip which (or a roll up) which relies on driving the rear wheel into the obstacle. It gets confusing because you can get rear wheel lift without the clutch - hence the difference between a double blip and a zap. Personally, I think there's more confusion between a double blip and a roll up as there is pretty much nothing a double blip can achieve that a roll up doesn't, but the double blip is more controlled and is used more easily when there is little run up or momentum. I prefer to think of a double blip as having two distinct and obvious blips - one to lift and then one to drive. Whereas, even in the Ryan Young video above, I'd call that a roll-up as there is a smooth delivery of continuous momentum. I believe he uses the two terms interchangeably. I'm not entirely sure why this issue is confusing or contentious but if it helps create useful and clear training videos then that's a good thing!
  5. That's really useful, thanks. I too have struggled to get any decent information on the zap. I can't do them very well at all. In addition to the clutch timing, I think your video also shows something equally important, which is you getting off the throttle - I think that's the bit I struggle with.
  6. I've just watched the BVM footage from the event. I'm sure there's a high degree of organisation and logistics involved but why on earth didn't they re-schedule it? Or it that just not done for GB events? Looks like a waste of time and effort for all involved. Sure, it's meant to be tough but I can't imagine anyone either riding, spectating, or observing enjoyed it in any way. Or is that not the point?
  7. Check the carb to airbox and engine rubbers are still fully connected and tight. You could have pulled them loose when you flipped it. Sounds like an air leak.
  8. Pretty sure there was a statement before the trial saying that the six top guys couldn't manage to do both the British and the World (due to travel restrictions/quarantine etc.) so chose to focus on Trial GP.
  9. I had fond memories of my knackered 2001 Rev 3 which I replaced with a 2019 TRS RR. Then the other day I had a go on a mates knackered 2006 Rev 3 and all fond memories evaporated. I'm sure old bikes are just as competitive in the right hands but the feel and pleasure of riding a newer bike is astounding in comparison. People will say "a good rider on an old bike..." Etc. But for a novice, you will be more comfortable on a newer bike. For your budget, I'd try and get as new/good condition Evo.
  10. About the only things I'd recommend is to put a tube on the carb overflow (under the float bowl) and if you can be bothered, grease the electrical connections. I've got a 9t front sprocket which is quite common. Started with a slow throttle but have gone back to standard (but use the wet map mostly). Seems like apart from CDIs, these bikes don't really need anything.
  11. Hmm... Interesting responses. I can see Jap Zaps working on moderate hills but this would be at a speed where the splatter is more appropriate. Plus, I simply cannot jap zap...
  12. As per the title... The sort of hill that is going to be 3rd Gear + and lots of throttle and should be fairly easy but requires momentum, but then there's a bump/rock/log/hollow etc. somewhere where you'd want to be at maximum speed. I can see two options, of which the second seems more appropriate but what do you think? 1. Flat out, hit the obstacle as hard as you dare and get kicked or launched and then try to get hard on the throttle on landing. This seems to really kill forward momentum and the bigger the kick, the worse the stall. But it seems the obvious option because... Flat out. Or 2. Approach the kicker and roll off to just clear it without getting airborne and then try to sit into the bike and start accelerating from a near stop on the other side of the obstacle. Runs the risk of simply not having enough momentum to finish the climb but seems more elegant and likely to succeed. As with everything, there's a millions variables but keeping it simple, what is the general approach and specific tips for this situation?
  13. I've used this on my enduro and trials bikes for years. Enduro bikes pick up way more mud than the trials bike. Power wash off the worst of the mud. Spray this on. Leave it as long as you have patience (unload the van, wash your boots etc.) Then rinse it off. Leaves the bike spotless with no brushing or any other effort. I sometimes use my hand to rub the plastics where the mud has been ground in but that's it. Pro-Green MX
  14. There are at least two different fittings as there are different braktec callipers. I know there are some that have the pin to hold the pads and the other one that doesn't have a pin. But either way, Galfer Red are considered the best I think.
  15. So I fitted my rack to the Freelander and did some testing yesterday. Yes, the rack is noticeably higher but the technique is the same. The clutch side bar end leans on the rear window so I've made a very thick pad out of a training mat to go around it. I'll probably put some protective film on the window too if it works. To load the TRS - I hold the front brake on with my right hand, and then lift the rear of the bike (using the airbox on the opposite side to the exhaust) with my left hand and lift it onto the rack. Then with my right hand, lift the front wheel at 12 o'clock up into the rack. Mind you, I'm considerably heavier than the TRS so can pretty much just lift the whole bike off the ground. Enduro bike - right hand under the swing arm at the rear wheel, left hand on rear wheel for support and deadlift the rear up. Then right hand on the bottom of the forks and left hand/arm around the forks under the frame and deadlift up into rack. Although, that front lift is some effort, especially after a wet event. I'm pretty chunky so I appreciate that this method might not work for some people. I've a much slighter mate that pretty much leans the bike into his thigh to lift the wheels into place but I don't think that would work on such a high rack.
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