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al_orange

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  1. So I bought and used this to remove the lower bearing race and it came off very easily. I added some 300mm M10 threaded bar (7.99 from screwfix too) and it worked perfectly. I'm going to use it to press (pull) the new bearing on as well, hopefully. Screwfix bearing puller
  2. In this case, I want to preserve the lower dust cover if possible so there's no way of grinding it off without ruining it. The 16mm socket is a red herring as the stem is a press fit like all the others so I'll have to take it somewhere to press it out.
  3. Sorry, I know this is boring and probably been covered before but what's the best method for a home attempt at removing the lower steering bearing from the stem? It looks like you should/could use a 16mm hex to remove the stem from the bottom yoke and in the processing push the bearing off? I'm trying to do this without mullering the bottom dust cover if possible. Already done the races and have removed the outer cage and roller pins from the bottom bearing. Just need to remove the inner race and I prefer technique over blunt force if possible. Thanks.
  4. I've got a standard autowbar car rack on my Freelander 2. Works perfectly and the FL2 is perfect for carrying the bike. Might be worth calling Dave Cooper just to check what the difference is between the senior car rack and the van rack.
  5. We've all been there. I do like to make sure my bike is well up together, as then I know the issue is with me. But a little play in the linkage won't be a big issue. However, tyre edge in slippery conditions makes a huge difference. More so when we're learning as we rely on the tyre's performance more to make up for lack of skill. I know I do!
  6. In theory, it could impact traction but the effect will be negligible compared to tyre condition, tyre pressure, clutch/throttle control, and use of body weight, or even sag/spring settings, rebound setting etc. So no, it's not what is causing you to spin up.
  7. Bike of that age - I'd expect the binding to be caused by old seals and/or corosion in the grooves the seals sit it. My 01 was terrible for it and it took some effort to really clean out the grooves. Even when it looked clean there was still loads of crud to be removed. Might be worth a caliper rebuild and an ultrasonic clean or even replace the caliper.
  8. Every 10 hours Arbitrary number but it does look like it needs changing at that point Expensive stuff - Nils or Elf (TRS 250 RR)
  9. Leatt Elbow Guards I've got these in XXL and have very similar sized biceps although my forearms are not massive. The sizing is very accurate. Also, they are cheap in that link above. I think I paid £50 for mine and although that seems very expensive, I'd buy them again tomorrow if I had to. I wear them every ride and have given them some good knocks. I particularly like the hard plastic cups because it saves you from rocks nicely. You don't notice they are on when wearing them. After a few rides, they will need washing as the cuff gets a bit looser. But once washed, they spring back to shape. I find a bit of water/sweat will hold the silicone strip to the arm. The only time they have slipped down was when completely dry and stretched from being worn too many times.
  10. I would put the settings back to whatever they are in the manual for your altitude and temperature range first. Then, go one richer on the pilot and main if needed. I would consider a richer needle diameter too. That has made the most difference to the way mine rides. I think (but just from memory) I'm on 48pj, JJF Needle, Clip 4, 128mj. But I've got a drilled air canister and it might be a touch rich at the top now. I found fitting the richer needle makes the most difference and it pulls nice and cleanly under load but will always ring-ding-ding when coasting with clutch in (downhill etc.) I'd say mine runs as well as it can but it is down on power at the moment. I hope this is due to it needing a piston and not the jetting because it runs nicely otherwise.
  11. I would have thought a scooter cover may work, unless it's too short?
  12. Just make sure whoever you go with will actually teach you something and not just get you riding sections. I've had a number of "training days" and yet have learned very little in terms of technique. The most I've gotten out of them is riding sections that are more intimidating and therefore learning more about what the bike will do. Which obviously is a good thing but I'd say there is a distinct lack of real instructors around. I've picked up the odd tip but I want someone who will pick up the smaller details about body position and traction etc.
  13. al_orange

    TRS e-start

    If it's got a kick start and a lithium, I would recommend kicking it for the first start of the day as that will warm the battery up and also reduce wear/load on the starter mechanism for that start, which will be the one that take most umph.
  14. Yes, been using it for years and it's very popular in the LDT world. Wouldn't use anything else on my enduro or LDT bike. Not relevant for modern trials bikes but could be used nicely on older bikes with tubed rears.
  15. al_orange

    TRS e-start

    I'm guessing it's a lithium battery? If so, there's no need for a trickle charger. They will hold charge for months at a time no problems. Better to give them a full charge before storage than to trickle charge them.
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