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al_orange

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About al_orange

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    2019 TRS 250 RR

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  • Location
    Somerset

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  1. About the only things I'd recommend is to put a tube on the carb overflow (under the float bowl) and if you can be bothered, grease the electrical connections. I've got a 9t front sprocket which is quite common. Started with a slow throttle but have gone back to standard (but use the wet map mostly). Seems like apart from CDIs, these bikes don't really need anything.
  2. Hmm... Interesting responses. I can see Jap Zaps working on moderate hills but this would be at a speed where the splatter is more appropriate. Plus, I simply cannot jap zap...
  3. As per the title... The sort of hill that is going to be 3rd Gear + and lots of throttle and should be fairly easy but requires momentum, but then there's a bump/rock/log/hollow etc. somewhere where you'd want to be at maximum speed. I can see two options, of which the second seems more appropriate but what do you think? 1. Flat out, hit the obstacle as hard as you dare and get kicked or launched and then try to get hard on the throttle on landing. This seems to really kill forward momentum and the bigger the kick, the worse the stall. But it seems the obvious option because... Flat out. Or 2. Approach the kicker and roll off to just clear it without getting airborne and then try to sit into the bike and start accelerating from a near stop on the other side of the obstacle. Runs the risk of simply not having enough momentum to finish the climb but seems more elegant and likely to succeed. As with everything, there's a millions variables but keeping it simple, what is the general approach and specific tips for this situation?
  4. I've used this on my enduro and trials bikes for years. Enduro bikes pick up way more mud than the trials bike. Power wash off the worst of the mud. Spray this on. Leave it as long as you have patience (unload the van, wash your boots etc.) Then rinse it off. Leaves the bike spotless with no brushing or any other effort. I sometimes use my hand to rub the plastics where the mud has been ground in but that's it. Pro-Green MX
  5. There are at least two different fittings as there are different braktec callipers. I know there are some that have the pin to hold the pads and the other one that doesn't have a pin. But either way, Galfer Red are considered the best I think.
  6. So I fitted my rack to the Freelander and did some testing yesterday. Yes, the rack is noticeably higher but the technique is the same. The clutch side bar end leans on the rear window so I've made a very thick pad out of a training mat to go around it. I'll probably put some protective film on the window too if it works. To load the TRS - I hold the front brake on with my right hand, and then lift the rear of the bike (using the airbox on the opposite side to the exhaust) with my left hand and lift it onto the rack. Then with my right hand, lift the front wheel at 12 o'clock up into the rack. Mind you, I'm considerably heavier than the TRS so can pretty much just lift the whole bike off the ground. Enduro bike - right hand under the swing arm at the rear wheel, left hand on rear wheel for support and deadlift the rear up. Then right hand on the bottom of the forks and left hand/arm around the forks under the frame and deadlift up into rack. Although, that front lift is some effort, especially after a wet event. I'm pretty chunky so I appreciate that this method might not work for some people. I've a much slighter mate that pretty much leans the bike into his thigh to lift the wheels into place but I don't think that would work on such a high rack.
  7. I've always done rear first then front but I have just bought a Freelander 2 myself, so may have the same problem! Especially, with the enduro bike.
  8. I generally agree with what you've said but I think the nose weight is much more about safe handling and relative weights when towing a trailer. The forces acting on the car when towing are far greater and far more dynamic than when carrying a bike on a rack. I'm not an experienced tower but reading the owners manual, it says that it's actually preferable to try to meet the nose weight rather than have a much lighter load on the tow bar. I'd say that as long as the tow bar is rated to take the weight, and you don't overload the rear axle weight then the car would not be at all damaged. Whether it's legal/insured or not is another (and more ambiguous) question.
  9. My experience, using large estate cars, is that in a wet field or incline, there is definitely less weight on the front but it doesn't impact road driving, assuming you are just driving normally. This is with an enduro bike. With the trials bike (that comes in under the nose weight limit) I can't even tell it's on there.
  10. Sorry, only just seen this thread has opened again. Mine is still a bit of a bugger but as long as I'm concentrating, I can normally get it into 2nd ok. I think my issue was more to do with a weird clutch drag issue where at very low revs (idle) the clutch was dragging a bit, but give it a blip and it freed up. This was improved a lot by dressing the steel plates and using Nils oil. It's not perfect but at least it doesn't stall all the time like it used to. The change to 2nd does still catch me out now and then. I haven't tried moving the lever yet but agree that moving it down a spline may help. Alex - with mine, it will easily move into 2nd as long as I give it a "positive" change but I certainly don't need to give it a kick.
  11. I've used a rack on big estate cars for 9 years. Technically, it's easy to exceed the nose weight but I contacted my insurance (once) and they sent me a letter saying that I am still insured if I carry an enduro bike on the rack - which exceeds the 85kg nose weight by about 30-40kg. I'm not sure what the actual legal situation is with nose weight but for various reasons, I'm buying a Freelander which has a nose weight of 150kg so that there's no quibble. However, reading the manual, it states that the nose weight is generally 150kg but can go up to 250kg as long as the rear axle isn't overloaded. Which makes me question just what the nose weight limit really means. Nose weight is relevant for towing due to the dynamic forces and weight ratios between car and trailer and therefore, I'm not sure that carrying a load on the tow bar is the same thing... Does anyone have a definitive and reliable source for information on this issue?
  12. al_orange

    trs v sherco v beta

    When I was looking at either the Beta or the TRS, I asked every TRS owner I came across what they thought and not one had a single bad word to say about them. Mine had a couple niggles from new but the importer support is unbelievably good so if/when you do have problems, they will generally help you out and talk you through stuff. I have heard many stories about sherco which put me right off. In fact, I've not really heard anyone praise them at all. Personally, I went with the TRS over the Beta because it looked and seemed a lot more modern than the beta. Even if that's just perception. If nothing else, the TRS sounds the best by a long shot. The only thing I really hate about the TRS is changing the air filter. It's fiddly and impossible to know if you have a perfect seal.
  13. Would never have considered a 4T trials bike but having had a tiny go on a 301RR, they are something else. Not sure if I'd get on with it but the engineering and the finish is very good. Really smart bit of kit. I bet the repsol is really nice too.
  14. Do you mean the single fork, not fitted to the bike or do you mean the front of the bike with it all out back together? If one fork, which one?
  15. Not sure there is anything there that is more effective than the correct size sockets, like I used. If it was a tenner then I might be tempted I guess. Don't intend on changing bearings too often. Will keep on top of the greasing now I know how exposed they are. Over 200 hours of muddy and nasty enduro riding and I've changed one wheel bearing. So was expecting to get more than 30 hours out of a set! When I popped the bearing seal to check the grease, the bearing was literally packed with dried mud!
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