comerconstructionman

Ha ha... your not wrong matey. Front wheel is fine. Ill make sure there are plenty of twigs about...

Thanks for the reply copemech, its a realpain... There was no water where we were practising yesterday so couldnt go through it... Ill keep a spatular in my boot

Hi All, I went practising today with a pal and all went very well and my brakes were wonderful (see Spongey Brakes Thread) But toward the end of the session my rear wheel kept sticking due to leaves and mud trapping the rear wheel between the swingarm and the lower rear fender. I scraped it all out and it was fine until it got stuck again. I could still ride but it was a pain in the a*** when doing very slow sections on the flat as the bike would not free wheel so it was sticking. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what was the solution...? Apart from scraping the crap out every 5 minutes. Nick

Thanks for all your input on this thread people brakes are excellent now. Did some fast riding and lots of breaking and just think they needed bedding in. Went practising today and they were fantastic. Would say one thing though that the rear brake is really sharp which is good but the rear wheel doesn't spin that freely when in neutral. Not sure if the pads are grinding a bit on the disk. Rear wheel does spin freely but not maybe as it should. Nick

Ill have a go tomorrow copemech and let you know...

Ill have a look at the lines... Im pretty sure its not the disks.

Mmmmm sounds like its not the disks then...more investigating needed.

The disks arnt sold they are vented but not wavey... do you think wavey disks will help then Zippy or will they make no difference at all.?

Its an 2010 bike thats not had much use before I brought it shouldnt the master cylinder seals and pistons still be ok...?

Brakes have been bled properly so im pretty sure its not that. Maybe its because of the new pads any they need bedding in.

Hi All, problem with my 290s brakes. Front and rear pads are brand new due to the brakes being a bit spongy but they still are no way as sharp as they shouls be. The brakes on my KTM 350-F are like lightening, really tight. The disks are solid so would they be better with wavey disks...? N

I shall he can check his piles at the same time LOL

My mechanic Matt said that the celernoids can go in the stators and is pretty sure thats what happens.

So are the stators on the shercos always a bit sensative...?

Well its the stator, after a process of elimination with parts from an 2010 bike it was the stator. New one on the way.

Will do, ill know more tomorrow...

Thanks Raffles ill give it a go. N

Thanks for your reply coppermech. Matt my mechanic is picking up another Sherco on Monday to do exactly what you suggested. The stator was fitted just before I purchased the bike from splat shop but was a reconditioned one. The warranty is still valid as I have spoken to the guy I got it from. I think the easy thing to do would be to change the stator and try it. N

Hi All, A few weeks ago I picked up a Sherco 290 09 and all was going well. The Guy a got it from is local and friendly and told me when I brought the bike that the stator had been changed due to the original stator dying. The bike was running great and dandy untill last week when I went to start it and it wouldnt start. No spark whstsoever from the plug, tried new plug but still no spark. Its with my local bike mechanic at the moment and the stator is fine in his opinion and producing the correct ohms. Hes also checked the coil which is fine... My question is could it be the CDI unit and if so wheres the best place to get one? Nick

Ha ha... They are great now...

I have just changed the pads on my Sherco and have had the same problem. The front set was fine and dandy and all went well but the rear was a bloody pain in the harris. I had trouble getting the new pads in and then puching the piston back, eventually done it and got the new pads in but there is no pressure on the foot pedal at all now. I did notice a bit of brake fluid that had come out, must have come from the nipple when I removed the caliper from the swing arm. As the resorvar is in a really awkward place Ill have to try and back bleed it. On reading the posts here on rear brakes it may be better to get someone else to do it. I have bled the brakes on my KTM with no problems but not sure about the Sherco... Any suggestions? I can now answer my own question. On reading a post on the Gas Gas section by Spark using a syringe to bleed the rear brakes it has worked a treat... Thanks for your post. I have used the same method on my KTM 350 and its hardened the foot brake up a treat too...

I have just changed the pads on my Sherco and have had the same problem. The front set was fine and dandy and all went well but the rear was a bloody pain in the harris. I had trouble getting the new pads in and then puching the piston back, eventually done it and got the new pads in but there is no pressure on the foot pedal at all now. I did notice a bit of brake fluid that had come out, must have come from the nipple when I removed the caliper from the swing arm. As the resorvar is in a really awkward place Ill have to try and back bleed it. On reading the posts here on rear brakes it may be better to get someone else to do it. I have bled the brakes on my KTM with no problems but not sure about the Sherco... Any suggestions?

Just out of interest nell what size are the wheels on the 50 and do you want to sell it. Thanks N

Well I picked up the Sherco yesterday a 2010 290...and love it... 3 hours yesterday and a couple today... Its all coming back to me although I have trial practice next Saturday and Enduro practice on the Sunday...That could be interesting.

Thanks for your reply, im having a look at the 2010 on Thursday, may go tomorrow if I can as its local to me.