bishyfishy

...fork seals for leakage steering head bearings for play and grease Kill switch that works reliably pop a new spark plug in it clutch and front brake lever position in from the end of the bars and have the required freeplay of brake/clutch lever movement to master cylinder piston movement prime the kick start to the top of the compression stroke before pushing your kick/foot down will avoid broken kick start return springs join a local club and enter the next trial available and enjoy

1 - Tight 2 - loosen locking ring which is the one furthest from the spring and then wind in/tighten the adjustment ring to increase spring preload/lessen the sag or wind out/loosen to increase the amount of sag. Try about 20-25mm with you standing on the pegs of the bike. Tighten the locking ring back up to the adjustment ring when setting is done. 3 - The Hydraulic regulation/damping is normall screwed clockwise all the way in to just tight then reverse out at least 2 -3 clicks but this will depend on how much you weigh and how much you like how quick/slow the "bounce" speed is. Try 2 -3 turn and ride a bit then try 6 - 8 turns and see if you notice the difference. Hope this helps Lewis.

If the bike is in good cond, a fair realistic price for the year then go for it. Slow action throttle and retard the ignition 3-4mm (posted elsewhere on this forum) will slow it down a little and can be easily reversed if/when needed. IMO the best thing us to do is join a local club and ride the easy/adult beginner route and enjoy...

Mine is the same. I replaced the linkage bearings and sleeves etc which eliminated the free play at the swinging arm end but left the top shock bolt with small amount of movement. One day I might replace it or try and sleeve it somehow.

Try this link for the manual http://www.sherco.com/manuals.html and it shows the following settings i.e.mixture screw 3.5 turns out from fully in-then adjust the idle (this would be a starting/base point, I find 3 turns out with 34 pilot jet and needle clip on 4th from top) 290cc 272 76x60 0,0270mm-0,0325mm 1,1 mk/g 98 oct NGK BP5ES / DENSO W16EP-U Dell’Orto VHST 28 60 128 33 D36 2ond + 1 clip 0,5 3,5 20mm 3,3 430cc 450cc SAE 10w40 Multidisco Digital 2,6 l. AJP Ceriani 115 left / 55 right Sae 5 121mm

From memory I think the small rebate goes into the clutch thrust bearing bush side. http://www.splatshop...009/290/Clutch/

Take a butchers at this link it might help - ok I know it is for a Sherco but my guess is that you may also have Paioli forks on the Beta? One litre of 5wt oil should be plenty. Personally I would drain from the bottom of the fork leg. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/blog/2013/01/paioli-ceriani-fork-oil-levels-for-sherco-trials-bikes-from-2006-to-2011/ Bishy

This is what I used - available from Machinemart, Halfords do sell them but I cannot find on their website http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/oil-filter-wrench http://www.rolsontools.com/search.asp?page=1&id=153&tt=3&ct=1&searchCat=0&searchKey=oil filter

...I used a pair of car oil filter adjustable pliers - the type you can get from Halfords (other brands are available) for about 15 quid to hold the inner clutch hub whilst undoing the centre clutch retaining nut. Also have the bike in gear and block/jam the rear wheel/hold the back brake on. These pilers worked fine for me - just be careful and gentle and don't blame me if anything breaks ;-)

Hi jonny6 My advce would be to buy the best bike you can afford, a 200cc or 250 or even a 125 if you are not too big/heavy. Be careful if you are looking at machines nearer 300cc as they can be very sharp and possibly too responsive to start out on - although can be tamed down if needed with slow action throttle, retard timing etc. Check the obvious out when viewing; rear suspension linkage for play can cost £100+ on bearings to sort, piston/cylinder ratles £150-200, fork seals/headstock play, chain & sprockets and rear tyre edge to knobbles etc Join a local club http://www.nenevalleytrials.co.uk/ for about £10 and they will give you a code which will be needed by the ACU for membership. Their trials are at Cranford, Addington and Kettering all just off the A14 and even nearer to Bedfordshire - Irthlingborough just up the A6. £12 to enter an event. Start on the easy route and see how you get on. You can move up to middle route etc when you are ready. Ask at the first event regarding the section marking out etc and someone will help you as it can be a little confusing at first with some clubs using different colour markers for the same category routes. Most trials start at 10:30 and you would normally be done by 2:30, get there early and warm up before hand on some spare area of the venue. I've been riding for three years and enjoy every minute of it - even falling off. When the results email appears in the inbox Sunday night and I look at my result and think - was I really that bad...the best fun £12 can buy! Good luck Bishy