m82s

Lads you have been bags of information - I simply cannot thank you enough! As mentioned above for the first time ever I have not let my giddy self get carried away and by on a whim! Not the exact words but I'm prone to seeing something and wanting it so therefor I did not go view the bike. Busy day so sorry only just seen all your replies now and they have really helped me out. I was afraid the bike was to expensive. They guy will not take a penny less and he took it in p/x so he is obviously making up a loss elsewhere and admits to knowing nothing about trials. I'm going to do some shopping about tonight but the money is burning a hole in my pocket as normal! I'm in Leeds west yorks if anyone comes up with any good buy suggestions Thanks again guys! Martin

Wow cheers guys - most appreciated. god id better write all this down. im viewing at a road bike dealers who took in part exchange but is adament price is final. hope i have time to fire the bike over and let it warm up etc. surely this is minimum expectation when buying anyway. how do i quickly check no oil is radiator please? im fairly new to bikes so god help me!

Hi all, as per my other post: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/43437-what-model-and-year-is-this-please/ im buying this tomorrow morning and im new to beta. the price is 895 for the bike and wont budge on price. please can anyone tell me if this is a good price? apparently it says beta 352 on engine - is this a 250cc? this is my main concern. anything else i should look out for? cheers in advance

Thanks for the link to the beta models - most helpful. Yes id agree it's a 97 and the guy just come back to me and said its stamped 352 on the barrel or case - cant remember which. Does this give any clues as to if it's a 250 or not and any idea on average value please guys? Pics in my first post FYI Cheers, Martin

They have also listed it as a 350?

Cool cheers for the input, I guessed about that age but know knotting about beta. I take it they were purple then. I'll give them a call and see what other info I can get incase plastics have been changed. Any idea on its value anyone? Obviously that's a dealer price. Martin

Hi all, new to beta and trials really. I am selling my bike which I never even rode once (fantic k-roo) and I have seen this locally but it's at a dealer: http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l373/martin82scott/Beta/ It's not on their website and think they have listed it wrong. Also I know age nor distance should be main factor in buying a bike but condition and I suppose price is key. I want something with parts readily available or easie to get than older bikes so to speak. Also any comments on its condition or first impressions including price would be most appreciated and what to look out for when/if I view it (if mine sells!) and I put rest towards. Cheers guys

There is also a small rubber looking washer with a pozzi scew in it next to the plate that covers the flywheel and when undone, water peed out. is this right? i notice its inline with the pipe connected to the head and the cable entry for the stator passes through this area of the case on the corner meaning it probably all needs to come apart?

Been to see bill on this one yesterday and he proved the stator to be faulty and got different readings to me. Anyway, now to try and remove the thing! is it possible without the removal tools etc? i have heard on some cases you can get away with impact wrench. im loosing patience with this bike and might just flog the lot and get something newer. Sorry rant over - bill told me id need a new fan at £70, a new wiring loom cos its a mess and possibly stator depending on its fault. Typical case of buy something and find out whats wrong with it. Its standing me at about £800 with the brand new carb and 2 rolling chasis etc and i have not even ridden it yet. I skipped a beat when he told me the price of the fan let alone a stator!

Hi all, most of my woes are over after biting the bullet and buying a new (definately correct one and jetted etc) and im almost there for the first ride on my bike after owning it six months! everything is sorted now i think barring i now believe the stator flywheel doobri thingi. On the first issue, i get a slip (and hurt shin!) about every 10th kick there abouts when the kick start slips. Advice on this would be most appreciated too. Onto my ignition issue...The bike seems hit and miss as to wether it will start and idle or not. I have disconnected the red and white at the CDI ( i think its called?) and tested with LRO meter and got the following: Red to chasis/green = 98.4 ohms white to chasis/green = 0.01 ohms Red to white 98.4 ohms Is it dead? having put another brand new plug against the engine head (in a mint condition cap and lead) im getting what id say isnt a great spark as the spark doesnt continue repeating throughout the kickstart cycle all else looks well for its age and the bike is well grounded by the looks of things. Fan was disconected and lights off etc during tests. cheers in advance as always! martin

Spoken to bill pye and he tells me that a 28 carb will not run on a 212 engine....pants! that stuffed me so in the van it goes and a 100 mile round trip I think coming up. Trying to get a 26 carb on fleebay but non available at a cheap price. Have to sell my two carbs I reckon. Is there any difference in a phbh 26 bs, cs and ns? I have a cs kicking around and the spec of bike says ns. An ns looks roughly the same with mixture screw on engine side etc. Not riding a bit then now

Cheers grib!! i bet you have just solved my problem... i have been assuming the small screw was an air screw! ill report back but hopefully this will solve my mysery. ill research (ask bill pye) what the original carb should be. I believe its a phbh26 xx model but unsure as to what air and fuel screws that would of had. fingers crossed with the 28 carb tomorrow! edit: original was phbh26 NS

hi grib, thanks again for your input. yes agreed, hard to say over a keyboard! its a phbh28 but i also have a phbh 26 with a knacked jet in so i need to get that out before i can revert to a 26 carb. Ill wind the throttle screw in and give that a go. Yes it has spring and, o-ring and washer and is all brand new so to speak. never been ridden barring around a yard once or twice before i got it. im pretty sure there is no blockage as i had the carb apart three times and had airline on it etc. all jets are new and everything appears to operate as it should so to speak. im putting it down to the carb settings at the minute as at one point it did seem to idle fine for 15 mins and i have not really touched anything. The exhaust is pretty oily and it sounds fairly raspy. I currently have the back box hanging and has been draining of oil etc for the last week. Im pretty sure the rest of the exhaust needs flushing too and i need a new rubber o-ring between centre pipe (all in one front and middle) as this is pretty much non existant and leaks like hell before the backbox. om sure this wouldnt stop the bike idleing? im ordering a new rubber asap though. The air screw is on engine side rather than airbox side and large screw is fuel? it controls float height.

Hi again all. I have not had time to do anything with the bike due to work and weather but hope to do so tonight. Please can anyone shed any light for me on the last post or so that i put up as im totally lost now and need to get out on this bike before the weather continues to make it game over for the year! i eargerly await your most appreciated advice! kind regards, martin

Hi again all, im back with no great news again... Totally stripped and cleaned my new carb for the sake of it again just to see if there is anything that i had missed the first and second time! or if anything had dislodged etc but nothing. New 36 and 40 pilot jets making no real difference 125 main jet all jets are new and clear what i have noticed is i dont seem to have this 1mm of play in the throttle ive read about? how do i do this please if its needed? The bike has new fuel etc and all seems to be operating as it should. It will fire up and with throttle stay alive but no throttle and it dies. I have tried air screw from 1/4 turn to 3 turns and not much joy. It will run with throttle open a little with about 1.5 turns as grib said but with choke only. Bike will not start when warm without choke either. I think it might be leaning towards something else now aswell. The spark plug on spec says champion c6ycc and cross reference this to ngk gives BCP7ES although this plug is massively longer and will not slide in below the radiator cowl. The plug i have is another stubby ngk but is wrong if my cross reference above is right. Obviously the depth matters too but this plug has always worked since i got the bike and isnt fowled or discoloured at all. all other connections etc all look good. totally at a loss now again

Thanks again grib. i had read that a while back but forgot the rule also: usually in conversions an increase in the Carburetor size also requires an increase in the main jet size of about 10 % for each 1 mm increase in the choke size, without changing the other setting parts i have the 125 main jet as per bike spec. will it 'need' to be increased in the long run? Taking into account your above post, i shouldnt think it would make too much of an issue at idle? thanks again grib

cheers grib, i tried this straight away as my first thought. I had a look at the guide you kindly posted for me and im just trying to get my head around what difference i have with the carbs larger bore/venturi thingy. i have tried fidling with the screws but just wild guesses with small adjustments either way on each. I think i had them somewhere near before but again these can also be down to preference too to an extent. Obviously i just need to get the bike to idle ok first before i worry abou this. with that larger pilot (and much more smoke!) i had approx 2-3 turns on the air whilst testing and anywhere between 1-2/12 turns on the tickover screw. average 1.5 turns ish gave a reasonable tickover that didnt pop too much at the exhaust and was stable. it looks like the bike wants 2 turns plus on the air though to idle without choke but it gains dull fast revs quickly on its own and dies. This happens with tickover screw now fully in and up to 1.5 turns out with tonights guess-timates any opinions most appreciated

With new phbh28, 36 pilot, 125 main jet and 70 choke, the smoke is now no longer an issue today but i have not tried starting it for a few days. Today the bike is now bogging down immediately and dying as soon as you touch the throttle and if you dont touch the throttle, the revs begin to esculate still and the bike eventually dies anyway. Is this to do with the needle height? cheers

Well i have put in the 36 pilot, 125 main and 70 choke into my new phbh 28 and im still having issues since. it seemed less hassle to start, idle and knock off choke after a couple of mins with the 55 pilot but now its much harder to start if it will start. Initially it seemed ok and then the revs started to esculate and seemed to stick a little and i killed it in favour of letting the engine run at high revs when cold. everything looks ok and normal and nothing has changed barring putting in the 36 pilot. The exhaust is very oily although the last guy tells me he ran at 50:1 as have I so far. Maybe this is the cause of the smoke although the smoke seemed less with the 36 pilot for the short time it ran from cold. im stumped unless its the needle that needs adjusting to compensate? i think its on notch 2. The clutch seems to still drag massively and gears are hard to find although this was done with the bikes engine off and not been ridden since its clutch done. Maybe its just the oil that needs to lubricate the plates. I gave the bike a good shake by using front brake and bouncing it and left to right but its probably not enough. was hoping for my first test ride tomorrow back to the drawing board.

Cheers for the help again guys. Grib that guide was most helpful - i decided to read it properly and take it in this time as i only skimmed through it once before. Ill order a 36 and maybe 40 tonight. Goudrons - thanks again for your wise advice. I have been and paid my fee at swaine woods and a guy who go's there like clockwork im told is most pleasent and helpful with the hands on stuff. Ill go and make pals with him me thinks. Im learning a lot now - eagerness to get out on the bike set in before being my first bike but glitch after glitch made me rethink. I bet im the only bloke on the planet to buy a bike 3 months ago and still to this day not had it out of the garage! There is gloop in the exhaust so im also going to get the endescope in there tonight and just have a quick poke about. will probably remove it and flush it as smoke is quite heavy but getting better and the clinking noise has improved since the bike has been sat idling for a total of half hour now

Up and running just about! Ready to ride finally I'd say once i sort the mixture screws. The bike is firing first kick almost effortlessly now. i need to load into van and check that the clutch has cleared up. Its now pretty darn light! One or two quick questions....do fantics always sound like they could explode at any minute? I read somewhere about a normal pinking noise or something somewhere on here. Mine has a quite noise going on by the head somewhere (might not be the head) that sounds like....I dunno! Imagine a disc spinning on an axle that is far too small with no bearings so it slips about as it rotates I have gone back to the 28 carb instead of the 26 as the 26 needs looking at. The floats seem to be sticky even though ive gone through this quickly once or twice. Also it appears the pilot jet may be knackered and is stuck well down in the bore. Looks like someone has snapped the head on it. The 28 is brand new and sweet and fires without choke when it had warmed up a little. I put the 125 out of the 26 carb in here along with new 70 choke and 55 pilot although the spec on bike says 36 and obviously a 26 carb not 28. will this run ok? it sounds a little more dull now after getting the bike going then changing to a 28 carb from 26. Will the 55 pilot be ok or does it need changing? i think the bike is struggling on air as it seems a little lumpy when i knock the choke off on the 28 carb. seemed better on the 26 if i remember rightly. id rather have the 28 carb as its new and doesnt have float issues nor a chewed jet in there! Hope this isn't get the wallet out again!

thanks grib, yes i noted the arrow and just pointed it vertical before removing the springs but didnt see the dimple on hub - thanks for this for future reference. Everywhere i have been locally for other stuff in the meantime all have different oils. thanks for the heads up on the ATF causing grab. Goudron noted it can be noisy but im glad i havent put ATF in already as i have not been any bike for 15yrs yet alone a trials and appreciate the gearing is totally different. I dont think it would do harm but i dont want to start off too far away from an oil i will want to use as a newbie in the near future. I will not be attempting any kind of rocks etc and so i dont want it too snappy but not too dull if that makes sense. is there some sort of medium? i suppose if i make a bad choice then i can just dump it and refill but id prefer to start somewhere near now considering the empty system. I have several bike shops on my doorstep as im in yorkshire so ill see what i can lay my hands on tomorrow. I dont know anything about the spec of oils - maybe ill read up on them v soon but its a bity late now to be putting the brain to work again!

Been real busy at the weekend but made a start on the bike today. not had time to look at rear brake yet. i got the bike off the stand today for the first time in weeks and as i backed it out of garage i learnt that without the engine running and the bike in gear with clutch fully in, the clutch was not engaging/disengaging properly or at all! the bike wouldnt move and nuetral or any gear for that matter was a pain to find. Obviously i didnt fire the bike up at this point. Luckily it looks like i have a newer clutch set than the bike i got off very lightly as all the clutch parts and gears in the case look to have been renewed at some point. The outer cover says fantic motor but the springs etc also look newer. Luckily my metallic plates are not the ones with the tabs on and instead the fibre one are. My inner most metalic plate is in great nick with very little wear if any - probably due to the amount of glue that looks like it had been applied from ten foot away with a hose! I thought what the heck and was intending on doing the full job anyway just for the sake of having the cover off for inspection. When i started, the clutch felt very light and the outer plate cover had about 2mm play but the other plates were all suctioned together - might of been the fact that the whole assembly had approx one egg cup of oil in the bottom of the housing, leaving the plates almost dry! could of been costly! here are pics as promised when only just started. i can do more of completion but probably not worth it. Having seeked pj1 i cannot get it locally. now i have clearly a near new clutch and will be filling it with new oil once i have cleaned al the old oil off the discs, should i just use something more widely available? every shop stocks different stuff so if i shouldnt choose ATF, what other oils are good to use please? I assume a tuning oil like pj1 wouldnt do much benefit now on the ttuning side of things? http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l373/martin82scott/fantic%20k-roo/

Whilst im at it in the morning, i want to do my oil as im sure it will definately need changing. The viewing glass shows just under halfway full. I noticed the drain plug sat just above the bash plate. should i empty the lot i take it and replace? should i warm the engine first or can anyone shed some light on the procedure please? http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://www.fanticmotor.asso.fr/r02_f32.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://www.fanticmotor.asso.fr/r02_f32.htm%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dsafari%26tbo%3Dd&sa=X&ei=FiVBUM3IBcLP0QWh2oHQCQ&ved=0CDgQ7gEwAA link shows spec of bike. i have got to do the rear brake too and it currently has dot 5.1 in it i believe and its seems ok just has air in there. Newbie question, does replacing my engine oil do the clutch fluid too or is this seperate? id really appreciate anyone who can tell me which fluids to buy as im sure we have moved on to better fluids nowadays. thanks again i expect a busy morning tomorrow!

Wow - thats masses of info goudrons - thank you very very much! hopefully this will cure all my problems once i get time in the morning and ill report back. my float isnt exactly the same as the one in your last link but near on. the two circular floats are seperate and slide up and down on very thin spikes or rods. The the machanism that attaches to them and regulates their movement looks relatively the same but im not sure if i have this correct as it stands. Last time (first time) i had this carb apart, i cleaned it all out and put it back together and the bike fired and throttle responded. eventually the carb seemed empty and the bike wouldnt start up. i took it back apart as i realised obviously there was an issue with the floats not moving and allowing fuel through the carb. It was then i realised my possible mistake. The floats sit on rods and slide up and down as you would expect freely. The floats also have a pin sticking out at 90 degrees to its position and i then assumed i must have not sat the float mechanism under these pins as it wasnt lift them and hence carb empty. I did this and put it all back together and i only attempted to flood fuel into the carb to get the bike started as it was a little tough to get going having no fuel in the bikes parts whatsoever. This is when a little fuel came out of the breather and the bike fired but then i killed it and walked away having been very low on fuel. The next time i filled it up with fresh fuel the other day and turned on the fuel tap, it was like a water fall out of the breathers and as i said, it ran for a few minutes without stalling! You must be correct here as it was obviously still recieving fuel out of the carb! ill go with what you said and report back. Hopefully i can then ride it for the first time and find out why my clutch drags and how bad. I only know this from the last person telling me when i bought it so it may just be the wrong oil im told. massive thanks to goudrons and all others who have made input. martin