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nostroke

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Everything posted by nostroke
 
 
  1. I'm not sure that what I have will solve your problem. My model, as I dig deeper into it, has a number of hard points that are NOT the same as the GG geometry. Mainly, I'm talking motor mount plates and various body related points. I didn't fully copy their frame, only the rake, trail, wheelbase, shock linkage etc, the critical geometry that makes it handle. So if you are converting one of their frames with adapting plates, nothing will match up.
  2. It appears that I'll need to link you to a dropbox; the forum won't accept any CAD files. Bear with me, I'll try to get them uploaded and send you a link later. I think the Scorpa chassis would be best if I saved it as a Autocad 2D or a generic DXF. Do you ever use GrabGad? I could maybe post it there. I have no concerns about copying or ownership. Its a great resource.....
  3. What format do you want? Its a 2013 Solidworks solid model but I can save in more generic format like STEP or IGS. Also, my model is from my own design frame which is very close to GG but I did change a few things. I also have a dimensional flat sketch of a Scorpa frame that I got from Phillipe who later started EM from back in ~2006. But the Scorpa geometry seemed weird so I didn't use it and used GG geometry that I copied from a TXT 200.
  4. What cad format? Its in 2013 Solidworks but I can save it as STEP or IGS for you, which opens in most software.
  5. Some people make an electronic clutch, which I also made and didn't like either. Its a potentiometer that sort of cancels the voltage from your throttle.
  6. If it were mine, I'd definitely use some primary reduction, chain, belt, gears, whatever. That smaller motor is likely a high rpm motor and needs reduction, but I would not use a clutch without gearbox.I tried it. It sucked and added weight. Unless you are a high level rider, its just fine without a clutch once you dial into it.
  7. Well, I hate to burst your bubble but it really doesn't work like you are expecting unless you have low first second and third gears. Also, its worth mentioning that the GG has a roughly 20 pound flywheel for inertia when you dump the clutch, the flywheel effect,, so the inertia of your smaller motor is quite small, which further reduces the 'big hit' you want.
  8. Looks like a nice little motor. So you will use the small primary drive crankshaft gear keyed or splined to the motor shaft , then to the stock GG clutch, right? Then make a inner and outer case with the bearings for the countershaft, correct? You will need an oil seal on the inner motor shaft and on the outer countershaft. Is that the plan? I would be concerned that without a gearbox, if the motor KV and your reduction, primary and secondary combined is not low enough, dumping the clutch will be like dumping clutch in 3rd gear. Or whatever. What I'm trying to communicate is that with a fixed reduction, you have to pick a realistic top speed but if you do that, it would likely be geared too tall to have any decent clutch launch. I tried this with and was like, oh! I didn't work..... Here is my direct drive GG conversion I built before I made my own.
  9. So I take it you intend to use the stock gearbox as well as the wet clutch? What motor are you intending to use?`
  10. I confess there's a part of me that want to do a small production build but calmer minds prevail. Could I be , egad, getting older? Smarter? Nah....I'm staying busy babysitting this RR bike. Its faster!
  11. Yep, I only made one but I still have tooling for all the plastics that I vacuform. The frame fixture is another story. I made a minimal one that wasn't worth using again, just to try out my frame design. I would have to make a better fixture before building more. But still, anything less than ten or so presold would not be worth the effort.
  12. Been there and done that, sorta. In 2003, I made and sold ~ 60 MTB based electrics, no pedals, under the Denali name. And we made 6 TorkAtak electric trials bikes.. In retrospect, they fairly sucked. I snapped one in half. Since then, my current ride, Digit, is pretty awesome IMHO. I've been riding almost daily for about 5 years.I copied a lot of Gas Gas geometry but made it all from scratch from my own Solidworks model. After Denali, I built more bikes under the ElectricMoto banner, the Blade. More of an MX style using the 8" Briggs motors (eteks). I'm re building one now with some killer lithium cells I just packaged. But starting a company today is much bigger deal than just making good product.
  13. That would certainly work. But still, I'm not really seeing that for maybe 3/4 of trials riders, that big hit from a clutch / g'box is needed. Pro level, yeah, gotta have it.
  14. Personally, I don't quite see how a clutch would work on an electric unless you included a multi-speed g'box. I actually built one and tried it with a fixed 6 to 1 reduction. I put the clutch assy on the motor shaft, so it was between it and the countershaft sprocket. But without a really low fixed reduction, it was like dumping the clutch on a gasser in 4rth gear, ie, quite the anti-climax.
  15. Wow. Good on Mr Kent. I hope more people figure it out. Electrics are way easier to ride trials on, hands down IMHO, clutches be damned. Lets face it, riding trials is really difficult for most. That's why more people ride MX or Enduro. Anything that makes it easier without compromising the challenging nature of the sport has got to be a good thing for the sport overall. And did I mention that you can ride them anywhere? OK, I'm raving.Thanks for the link!
  16. Here's the 3D solid model that I used to design and build from. Done in Solidworks. Once the model is complete, fabrication is pretty easy...just copy your model!
  17. I've added some capacity to my bike recently. Before I had a 14S 2P quick swap battery, using 10 AH Li cobalt pouch cells. Now I have a 14S 1P pack made from 27AH cells, same chemistry. So my capacity went up from 20 AH to 27 AH, or from 1.036 kWh to 1.398 kWh. Nearly a third more runtime. But they don't quite deliver the current as aggressively as the 2P pack. The chemistry is not quite as hot.
  18. Ha. Personally, I'm waiting for a class for Nostrokes......
  19. No but I would really like to ride one. There is some personal history for me involved. Somewhere back in ~2003, my fledgling electric motorcycle company, ElectricMoto, was going to build bikes (The Blade) in France, at the Scorpa facility in Ailes. That whole idea never really panned out for several reasons but part of the deal was that I was to show the guys at Scorpa some of the electric propulsion basics. So I hooked them up with motor batteries and controllers from our Blades that we made there and one of their R&D guys packaged one into their trials chassis during the three weeks that I was there in France. It was pretty cool. Fast forward about 10 years, Phillipe Arresten (SP?), who was CEO of Scorpa at the time, starts EM, making electric trials bikes! And it looks really nice. So yeah, I want to ride one big time!
  20. Well, as usual, we can agree to disagree on several of these points. So much of this is subjective and we, silly humans that we are, tend to think that whatever we have done successfully is the way to go. The bottom line is that both GWHY and myself have built electric trials bikes that we really like. Building your own stuff, while daunting to most people, is extremely rewarding. I hate brushless motors, he loves 'em. I say tomAto, you say tomAHto....... I still ride mine almost daily. Its a source of both pain and inspiration. BTW, GWHY, where did you find the hall throttle? I have a friend with a electric bike rental track in the UK and he goes thru both brands of throttle pots like crazy...would love a non-contact hall device but never saw anything commercially available.
  21. The short list, as it were, is this: 1) Use a pancake style permanent magnet motor such as those made by Agni (the best), or Perm 120 (now Heinzman?), Briggs and Stratton E-Tek, or similar. I use brush motors because brushes never actually wear out and the controllers are cheaper (golf car stuff, such as Alltrax 400 amp, 60 VDC max (48 nominal). Also Sevcon, Curtis and others with similar power. You NEED 400 amps or it will be anemic. 2) You should try to direct drive from motor to rear sprocket if possible to get proper gearing, which depends on the motor's voltage constant (kV). Other wise, you may need a stage of reduction gearing, which means a belt or gearset. Both are heavy and prone to reliability issues if not done properly. 3) You have to come up with your own battery and BMS and charger. No simple task but do-able on the Interwebs. The pack should be able to discharge at least 400 amps for brief glorious periods of say 5 seconds. In other words, this is an intermittent, not continuous requirement. Same with the motor, in terms of thermal issues. If this bothers you, you will need a water cooled motor and fan cooled batteries, but I don't see a need for either in this application. 4) Magura and Domino both make twist grips for this application and they both kinda suck IMHO but they work fine most people, a bit twitchy control-wise though, as they are 1/4 turn.. There's more......
  22. I would add that this is all very subjective stuff. I think the jury is still out as to what best provides good control of a trials bike, certainly electric motor based torque response. Personally, I feel that the clutch emulator is an added distraction, but I think most experienced riders would do better with that system, But I don't like it. I have been riding hot rod electric bikes for a long time, probably twenty years (I'm waay crusty). That said, I am pretty sure of one thing...to get a pro level electric bike to leap like a gas bike, controllably, it will need a mechanical clutch. There just isn't enough torque available to simulate a spinning (gas bike ) flywheel launch. And I also think at those high levels, you would need to quickly de-couple ANY motor connected to it, gas or electric, to get the snappy response required on say a double blip. And that's what mechanical clutches do really well. This is not to say that a 'smart' closed loop servo control is out of the question, but I think you would have to take the control inputs largely away from the rider, which is kinda scary, in a autonomous drone / Segway fashion,...and what fun would that be?
  23. I think you may be over-thinking it, biff. Having played with darned near everything you have mentioned, weird cams, logarithmic pots, and microprocessor based programmable ramps...my favorite is a nearly linear crisp predictable (OK, analog!) ramp. On my bike, I expand the pot travel via cable to a linkage that provides about 90 degrees of mechanical rotation, instead of the more typical 45 degrees. On a gas bike, the throttle cable needs to pull exactly the same linear distance as the carb bore (~30mm), so you have to use different twist throttle cams to affect a change in sensitivity. But with a pot (rotary, hall or resistive), you can make the arm or quadrant however you want, relative to the twist grip cam. Wow, now it sounds like I am over thinking it.
  24. It looks like it may be a bit rear heavy from the pix, but I hate being a critic without any beef to back it up. On mine, its about 2% rear heavy, theirs looks like about 8 to 10%, which might be weird. But again, I hate to bash something without anything but a pic to reference.
  25. OK just saw the $9k USD, which sounds more realistic. It really comes down to how many you can build / sell. The more you make the cheaper they get of course. And it looks like they have geared up for some volume. I would love to ride theirs. It sounds like kinda low power but electric specs can be very misleading, ie, continuous vs peak, etc. We Americans always lie on the high side.....they are probably using honest numbers (go figure!) I expect its a torquey bike..... Its hard to make an electric that isn't!
 
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