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  1. I'm not sure that what I have will solve your problem. My model, as I dig deeper into it, has a number of hard points that are NOT the same as the GG geometry. Mainly, I'm talking motor mount plates and various body related points. I didn't fully copy their frame, only the rake, trail, wheelbase, shock linkage etc, the critical geometry that makes it handle. So if you are converting one of their frames with adapting plates, nothing will match up.
  2. It appears that I'll need to link you to a dropbox; the forum won't accept any CAD files. Bear with me, I'll try to get them uploaded and send you a link later. I think the Scorpa chassis would be best if I saved it as a Autocad 2D or a generic DXF. Do you ever use GrabGad? I could maybe post it there. I have no concerns about copying or ownership. Its a great resource.....
  3. What format do you want? Its a 2013 Solidworks solid model but I can save in more generic format like STEP or IGS. Also, my model is from my own design frame which is very close to GG but I did change a few things. I also have a dimensional flat sketch of a Scorpa frame that I got from Phillipe who later started EM from back in ~2006. But the Scorpa geometry seemed weird so I didn't use it and used GG geometry that I copied from a TXT 200.
  4. What cad format? Its in 2013 Solidworks but I can save it as STEP or IGS for you, which opens in most software.
  5. Some people make an electronic clutch, which I also made and didn't like either. Its a potentiometer that sort of cancels the voltage from your throttle.
  6. If it were mine, I'd definitely use some primary reduction, chain, belt, gears, whatever. That smaller motor is likely a high rpm motor and needs reduction, but I would not use a clutch without gearbox.I tried it. It sucked and added weight. Unless you are a high level rider, its just fine without a clutch once you dial into it.
  7. Well, I hate to burst your bubble but it really doesn't work like you are expecting unless you have low first second and third gears. Also, its worth mentioning that the GG has a roughly 20 pound flywheel for inertia when you dump the clutch, the flywheel effect,, so the inertia of your smaller motor is quite small, which further reduces the 'big hit' you want.
  8. Looks like a nice little motor. So you will use the small primary drive crankshaft gear keyed or splined to the motor shaft , then to the stock GG clutch, right? Then make a inner and outer case with the bearings for the countershaft, correct? You will need an oil seal on the inner motor shaft and on the outer countershaft. Is that the plan? I would be concerned that without a gearbox, if the motor KV and your reduction, primary and secondary combined is not low enough, dumping the clutch will be like dumping clutch in 3rd gear. Or whatever. What I'm trying to communicate is that with a fixed reduction, you have to pick a realistic top speed but if you do that, it would likely be geared too tall to have any decent clutch launch. I tried this with and was like, oh! I didn't work..... Here is my direct drive GG conversion I built before I made my own.
  9. So I take it you intend to use the stock gearbox as well as the wet clutch? What motor are you intending to use?`
  10. I confess there's a part of me that want to do a small production build but calmer minds prevail. Could I be , egad, getting older? Smarter? Nah....I'm staying busy babysitting this RR bike. Its faster!
  11. Yep, I only made one but I still have tooling for all the plastics that I vacuform. The frame fixture is another story. I made a minimal one that wasn't worth using again, just to try out my frame design. I would have to make a better fixture before building more. But still, anything less than ten or so presold would not be worth the effort.
  12. Been there and done that, sorta. In 2003, I made and sold ~ 60 MTB based electrics, no pedals, under the Denali name. And we made 6 TorkAtak electric trials bikes.. In retrospect, they fairly sucked. I snapped one in half. Since then, my current ride, Digit, is pretty awesome IMHO. I've been riding almost daily for about 5 years.I copied a lot of Gas Gas geometry but made it all from scratch from my own Solidworks model. After Denali, I built more bikes under the ElectricMoto banner, the Blade. More of an MX style using the 8" Briggs motors (eteks). I'm re building one now with some killer lithium cells I just packaged. But starting a company today is much bigger deal than just making good product.
  13. That would certainly work. But still, I'm not really seeing that for maybe 3/4 of trials riders, that big hit from a clutch / g'box is needed. Pro level, yeah, gotta have it.
  14. Personally, I don't quite see how a clutch would work on an electric unless you included a multi-speed g'box. I actually built one and tried it with a fixed 6 to 1 reduction. I put the clutch assy on the motor shaft, so it was between it and the countershaft sprocket. But without a really low fixed reduction, it was like dumping the clutch on a gasser in 4rth gear, ie, quite the anti-climax.
  15. Wow. Good on Mr Kent. I hope more people figure it out. Electrics are way easier to ride trials on, hands down IMHO, clutches be damned. Lets face it, riding trials is really difficult for most. That's why more people ride MX or Enduro. Anything that makes it easier without compromising the challenging nature of the sport has got to be a good thing for the sport overall. And did I mention that you can ride them anywhere? OK, I'm raving.Thanks for the link!
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