Hi Larry, did manage to get the pushrods out, it was stuck with solidified grease I think, giving it a tap with a mallet it just wouldn't move it felt and sounded as tho it was hitting something(not realising it was inside the output shaft) but managed to start twisting it with a pair of mole grips at the chain sprocket side. The last time I was out on it the clutch was dragging a wee bit, so probably by the time I left it( can't remember how long) to try and adjust it, the rod has gone and seized.
I,ll check out the lever shaft ball before ordering other bits
Hi pschrauber, ball bearing was still in the middle of the rod and mushroom, just really mucky looking, hardened dirt on it,
Didn't realise there is a ball bearing at the bottom of the actuating lever, thought it was just a flat ground on the shaft!! Will need to look closer at the exploded drawings!!
Return Spring is in place, understand your comments regarding it rubbing away if the spring doesn't keep the pressure off of it.
IBhbul,
Once again I haven't looked close enough at the exploded drawings!!
Looks as tho it's grease just gunked up over the years and finally stopped the shaft from moving freely.
Recently bought a kwacker kt and have just got round to looking at it.
It's been well looked after with a recent engine rebuild and frame powder coat, but one of the front fork caps has a hole in it which obviously lets air out!
It's a clean hole I.e. It's been drilled and has a hole in the inside of the cap, I,m not up to speed on suspension , but this surely can't be for any reason, or am I missing something I can't see the wood for the trees! The other cap is fine!
Finally had a minute to pull off the clutch casing, and hey presto a snapped return spring.
What,s involved in taking off the shaft( will be getting myself a manual)
Have been through quite a few previous posts and a lot mention the 3 screws holding on the selector axle shaft, does this just pull out as a mechanism once the 3 screws are taken out? Do I need to take off the clutch basket to get at the screw at 2 o,clock?
One worrying thing was not a lot of oil came out the drain plug, not at where th bike is at the mo so don't know exact amount was but still have it!!
Finally what,s the best manual to get? The copied one in motion have or one of the Haynes ones which there seems to be plenty of on fleabay!! But only covers Sherpas up to 1975.
My M190 has suddenly developed a fault with the gaershift
First selects fine, but going up there is now about an inch of vertical travel of the lever before it will select second/third, doesn't seem to want to select four/five, and doesn't want to return to a horizontal position and coming down the way it doesn't want to play at all till i stop the bike:(
Gearbox itself seems fine.
Is a selector fork snapped/broken???
Want a wee bit of insight before i get the impact driver out!!!!
Have a ral chart handy if you can describe the colour i can give you the numbers which i think matches, sorry dont know the bikes at all to know which colour it is,
Removed said axle for puncture, thought I studied all parts that I removed okay, put them in order back on the axle onto forks whilst puncture was dealt with I,ve tried to put the wheel back on and the axle,s not playing!!
Left side(sitting on bike) is not going flush, or slightly recessed into fork leg and leaves very little for flanged nut at other side to grab onto!
Wheel looks in centre as it should, am I missing summin??
Order of things on axle...... Slotted axle,split bush into fork,spacer bush up against top hat spacer into wheel,through drum brake into fork, washer spring washer flange nut,
When I get everything in, the slotted axle end protrudes 10-15 mm, I,ve got photos of the bike before I bought it and everything is Deffo flush as I think it should be.
Cheers in advance.
fred.
ps. I have trawled through related posts but still scratching an ever balding head!!
Bolt behind seat
in Bultaco
Posted
My M190(1976) has one too!!