southwester

Nope still cant find any info on clutch tolerance's has anyone got a link? or a idiots guide New inner clutch cover on order with gaskets, seals and everything else to do a proper job along with a Yammy kill switch and chain and sprockets with11-41 teeth as after watching a how 2 video online yesterday confirmed mine were well over due replacement. You know the trick where you hold the chain on its side and if makes to much of an arc it needs changing well I can make a O with mine. Is it normal for the front sprocket to be loose on the drive shaft because the one I have on there wobbles side to side (out of verticle) massively. New tyres will be next if nothing else rears its ugly head and this low rev pinking issue if the for mentioned fixes don't sort it. I bought water wetter which cost £20 in my local shop but I dont understand the instructions on the bottle as in what ratio to mix with water with or without anti freeze and wtf size cup are they referring to, I work in pints and gallons

I sussed the skid plate had to be taken out to get the inner clutch cover off which was quite easy, so while I'm in here I thought I may as well look at the clutch and all looks well on the face of it, to a layman it looks new. There seems to be some loose glue-deposits between friction plates but nothing like I have seen that needs filling off like on Dan's clutch fix sticky thread and no notches-grooves. 2 things I cant seem to find out is what thickness of friction material is on tab when new and what thickness does it need changing at and how are they checked for being flat a piece of glass? and what measuring tool(s) are used, feeler gauges? Hope everybody had good rides the weekend, hopefully I'll be sorted for next weekend.

The bike over heated again yesterday and when I took off the water pump cover some serious corrosion has taken place, I had already scraped away a layer of emulsified oil before I took picture. Is it a engine out job to replace inner clutch cover? the rubber mat between the engine and skid plate looks as though its going to be in the way of getting it out with engine in place. New kill switch on order

Ok thanks, could be a lot of things them, I rerouted earth from triple clamp to where the larger wire brown earth is on frame behind plastic shroud and ignition box and bike stared 1st time without lights on so that seems to have worked. Makes me wonder why the guy who had it before me didn't do this? or perhaps he only rode in the dark. Does the pinky do any damage to the engine? the previous owner did have a 35 in there I may try that next.

I'm in the UK my choise's are standard unleaded or super-premium unleaded 1 has the less octane I think. I spoke to beta and they said it was jetted for standard unleaded and the jets are back to standard now. Back to the Q about needing a rad thermostat, I can't think of a reason why i do, any body else or can I just leave it linked out? Would the head gasket likely to have blown when the fan stopped running and coolant discharged

I seem to be having some bad luck with a 2007 Rev 3 250 I bought a few weeks back, I have only rode it for about 7 hours in total on 3 occasions and its played up in some way each time. 1st time out I couldn't get it started, unbeknown to me the stock kill switch sticks on which a helpful person where I was riding pointed out but the next day and from then on it wont start unless the lights button was depressed as well. 2nd time out I found that when I shut off the throttle it takes about 10 seconds for the revs to drop to idle speed and there's pinking at low revs, another kind gentleman where I was riding advised me there might be an air leak on the intake and to service the carb so I striped off the back of the bike and sent carb off for a sonic clean and drill out mod on the carb to stop fuel p******, I replaced all the gaskets-rubbers within carb and all gaskets from reed block to air box and sealed the holes drilled in air box? (why oh why?) There was a fair bit of crap in the carb when I got it off with the cir clip on needle in the 2nd position, 35 pilot and 150 main. The jets are now in there stock position 30 pilot, 150 main and middle needle position. The revs now drop as they should so some thing went well but still having the pinking at low revs? 3rd time I went out after an hour or so the pressure relief valve opened on radiator cap and that ended that day out, after linking out thermostat and running the bike in the garden the fan runs so the thermostat gave up the ghost. Can anybody comment on the pinking issue, why the bike needs a stat as the fan on mine is on before the bikes warmed up any way and what other damage the coolant over heating may have done to the engine or gaskets?. Oh and the lights on to start engine issue? I've spent more more hours working on the bike at the moment than riding it Thanks in advance to any commenters

Right I left the misfiring bike alone as it was to much of a chance as said, with regard to the brown barrel if it had over heated through lack of coolant liquid, fan not working I assume the problem this could lead to is warping of the top end? Would a sign of warping of the top end be knocking coming from the engine? and or are there any other ways of checking warping hasn't taken place visually or buy using my ears?. I think from what I've heard knocking also occurs if the piston and or rings are worn below tolerances and bearings to top and bottom end are shot and probably more. What are the implications to a gear box-clutch or anything else on a bike where the oil hasn't been changed regularly? If I go and look at a bike and the engines knocking I wont touch it with a barge pole but I would like to know a bit more if anyone can help? Sorry for all the ?'s but I haven't got money to throw away and if I end up with a dog, potentially it could ruin my enjoyment of the sport before I get going so I want to get it right. Cheers Oh and "caveat emptor" yes I have learnt the hard way in the past.

Hi, I could have a look at another rev 3 a 2003 that's available but this one mis fires. Can anyone suggest a likely cause or causes? If its likely to be the plug that's all well and good if it could be something major I won't bother. Seller says its in reasonable condition and he would take

Cheers for replys, I'm going out next weekend for a ride with some tuition and after that ime sure it won't be to long until I take the plunge, My mate's coming to so I check the bikes over were hiring to see how they feel and what to look out for. I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers

It's a 2005 and the seller says he would take a 1000 for it, tyres are on there last legs buy the looks of it but apart from that it looks fairly up together and also its reasonably local to me, most bikes for sale are well north of me. Yes with a shop I would get the benefit of there once over so shouldn't be a lemon and would have some come back if it turns out to be 1? and there's less choise than with private sellers.

I have a few questions if anyone can help? Seen a bike for sale and 1 off the things I noticed was the barrel was brown, cylinder head and casings were un tinged but haven't seen it on any other used bikes that I can remember. Is this to do with the material the barrels made of and its just where the mud has stained it or is it something worse. Also it was a beta rev 3 and the clutch drags when cold but clears when it has warmed up apparently, I see from the beta thread this is a common fault and there is a mod to over come it but was worried there may be more to it so I thought I would steer clear to be on the safe side until I find out more. I see from reading other threads the other things it could be are the plates could be warped or basket could be notched and need replacing? What's the likely hood? And and what approx cost at a repair shop. When I get one it will be my first bike and I don't know anything about mechanics really so I'm going in blind so to speak. I might get one from a shop yet but I still need to educate myself a bit more if anyone can give any advise. Cheers.

Thanks for the replies, My motocross skills were pretty non existent anyway to be honest but did teach me the basics of riding a bike and that they should be treated with a lot of respect, I also go mountain biking in Wales, the Twrch trail and the Afan forest but only like the down hill part these days so looking to put a engine between my legs my Santa Cruz has to go to make way for the trials. A 250 sounds most suitable then I will keep looking.

Hi all, first post here I'm a UK resident in the South West, I've not ridden a trials bike before but have had a YZ 125 and CR 250 in the past so have some off road experience, I now want to get into trials and am going to muddy wheels in Devon soon to have a day on a bike and get some riding tips before I jump in with a bike purchase. I'm 6' 3" and 15.5 stone with me pants only on. :moon:I've been thinking of getting a 125 with the theory being it wont punish me as much when the inevitable happens but would I be better off with a 250 due to my weight? Also I assume a 250's easier to ride as long as the throttles not revved mistakenly. I would like to spend between £1500-£2000 or so to get something fairly new and in good condition, what model on models would anyone who cares to comment suggest are the best for a beginner and what should I steer clear of?