southwester

I'm in UK and running the 5 I had it out 2 turns from closed and I had nails like Flo Jo pre this bike! Your right I've a new head gasket on order I didn't know you have to look at the plug as soon as you stop the engine I will get a picture taken of the crown when the heads off

This is the colour of my plug after about 3 hrs of riding at a range of throttle openings the 1st time out after new piston rings replate of cylinder bottom end clean out with new main seals standard timing setting water ways perfectly clear with new impeller inner clutch case cleaned exhaust clean air filter and standard jetting. I put in 70ml of Rock oil strawberry trial 2 in to 5L of Shell Super unleaded. With the bike warmed up the idle was still increasing in speed with the screw out 3 turns from closed so I am going to put a 27.5 pilot jet in the carb it's got a 30 I there at the moment which is standard and the main jet is 150 with needle clip in the middle position. The colour in the picture is a pretty good example of the actual colour and it looks a little grey to me. 1 thing I know isn't 100% right is the positioning of the head gasket it's been fitted in the 1-2 o'clock position instead of the 12. What do you think?

Went out on the bike on Saturday and all went well I need to get a smaller pilot for the carb and probably make some more adjustments after that but that was always going to be. So I fitted the new Apico brake pedal with new bearing and bush and that rubs the chain when you apply the brake it looks like it bends inward as pressure is applied which is off putting I think I will find a engineers vice and have a go at bending the original beta pedal as described by dadof2 in a earlier post.

Went out on the bike on Saturday and all went well I need to get a smaller pilot for the carb and probably make some more adjustments after that but that was always going to be. So I fitted the new Apico brake pedal with new bearing and bush and that rubs the chain when you apply the brake it looks like it bends inward as pressure is applied which is off putting I think I will find a engineers vice and have a go at bending the original beta pedal as described by dadof2 in a earlier post.

I was being brave posting the comment I did glad to see you have a good sense of humor I'm giving the 10 t sproket a go to see if it will help me crawl along slower! I'm in possession of the push rod bearing and master cylinder refurb kit @ £27.30 + vat @ 20% for those of you looking who don't live in rip off Britian and you don't even get a new booty! Cheers

Just ordered a apico pedal, bearing and bush so when my push rod bearing and master cylinder seal turns up I should be good for a test ride. You wrote the post about the sprockets in the morning did you!

All interesting advice I see a pattern pedal is

Cheers

Cheers for replys I'll put the grinder down for now then! What's the best tenique for removing the bearing and putting the new one back in as for working with ali no I don't have any experience how hot does it need to be to bend red hot? and how close is it to the melting point. Cheers

My chain rubs my rear brake on my beta rev 3 It dosent seem to be bent but there is a bit of play in the bearing. There's some wear to the brake pedal where the chains been rubbing against it in the past. Anybody surfered this my solution at present is to get the grinder out and give the pedal a shave.

Bike shop agreed that a missing bearing would lead to the symptoms I have and the seal on the master cylinder do give up so I have that on order to I was hoping it would turn up today but no joy. So to make sure I get it right this time is it a good idea to coat the push rods with gear oil on assembly to make sure some gets in there? Cheers

I just had a look at the motor diagram and it shows a bearing between the 2 push rods and a washer between the pressure plate and thrust bearing which I don't have on there either so this is the problem? I was pretty carefull when I took everything apart so surprised how I've lost 2 pieces!

This is the way I had the rods in there there's no bearing only what's in the slave cylinder. So there should be a bearing between the 2 rods?

Thanks for the replys everybody. I didn't put a ball bearing between the 2 push rods I must of missed that when I took it apart! I will disassemble now and have a look at the set up I was hoping to have a blast this weekend so if there is anything else up with it I can get it sorted so I can get a ride or 2 in over Christmas. I've just noticed it looks like there's a leak coming from where the push rod actuated by the lever is sealed into the master cylinder. Cheers

I've not got as far as putting the lid on master cylinder left it over night and its still the same and no sign of air.

The plungers moving freely

Yes I have had all the clutch components completely apart

Hi Rich Yes there is a bit of play in the lever.

Hi After my engine being apart and I am putting the clutch fluid on my rev3 back in, in through the master cylinder and out of bleed nipple all the air bubbles seem to be gone after I was purging it through and left it for a few hours but when I now pull the lever in after a few pulls it won't pull back in to the bar (acts like the front brake) the first pump after a purge is ok but gets progressively worse until it will only pull in 1/2 way. Anybody got any ideas about why that is? it wasn't like that before I took it apart:)

When I took my silencer off I just used wd40 and a boiler flue ways round brush and rag which cleaned up easy. On the front pipe I left it in a cosmic soda solution a couple of times for 24 hrs a piece and then in with the round brush again, b&q or Asda sell it. I haven't attempted the mid pipe as you can't use cs with aly but I think I saw a link to a YouTube vid on here with a guy burning it out with a wet towel round it.

I tried removing the clutch housing nut but its done up super tight, had the clutch holding tool and hammer on ratchet in desperation but the little faffer wouldn't budge I ended up going to the tire garage and he spun it off in 2 seconds job done with no damage I would go for that.

I got this far with my engine strip and took it up to the tyre garage to rattle gun off clutch nut and primary drive gear and it turns out a motocross suspension tune up and repair shop has opened up a few doors down so I saw them and the bloke said he will split the cases, inspect, clean it and replace seals for

This is the re plated cylinder done by langcourt, looks like new to me.

Also a good answer I noticed it pretty hard to crawl around on my bike in 1st on standard gearing I might well drop a cog off the front and see how it runs. The bike I rode previous to the one I have seemed a lot easier to ride slower it might well have been geared lower.

Cheers I will have a look