asbo239

They are difficult to put back in but I wouldn't use a vice or clamp. Just lubricate with silicone grease and wiggle the pistons in by hand, if they are in correctly they will slide in with thumb pressure easily.

That's what I was thinking. Got some araldite today but I'm going to ring Steve from Bradford ignitions tomorrow to check before I glue them back in. I'm bothered about the positioning as how does the stator know where to fire at??

Well lockdown is lifted and trialing has resumed. Was supposed to go to my first trial today but went to start the bike before loading up and I got one fire then nothing, no spark at all. Started investigating and removed the flywheel to find the sleeve and magnets inside the wheel loose. I can turn the magnets inside the flywheel. Has anyone seen this before?? Looks like its all just glued together and it's all separated but can I just glue it all back together? It's a 2010 with the leonelli twin map system. How do I set them in the right place for timing?

Ive spoken to Steve at Bradford Ignitions who thought it was a stator fault, but after sending him my stator, CDI and coil for testing, he's unfortunately confirmed its my CDI thats at fault and is non repairable. Anyone got one for sale as I really don't want to spend £400 on a new one.

Update. I've stripped it all down tonight. Woodruff key is fine, reeds are fine, carb is clean, I've replaced the coil with a spare. I'm beginning to think its spark related. With the carb off and no plug in, it turns over really easy, but I only get one good spark then maybe nothing for a few revolutions then intermittent weak sparks. Could it be the stator?

Ive done that twice now with carb clean and compressed air. I've got a spare carb knocking about somewhere so I might try that. Would a sheared woodruff key cause it to not rev or start on the kick?

Sorry its a 2010 300 sherco trials

Right, after three years and two kids I wanted to ride my Sherco 300 Cabestany replica trials bike again so I had to flush all the fuel system out on the bike, rushed it back together and put the lines back on the fuel pump wrong way around, the pump outlet connected to the vacuum line. Didn't realise this at the time and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start so parked it up again. Back to it 6months later and find the engine and exhaust full of fuel. Drained what I can and cleaned fuel system again but it will only start if bumped off. And when its started it will only idle, it won't rev at all. Could there still be fuel trapped in the crank? Would that cause my problem or could it be the exhaust after having fuel in it so long? Any help would be great, I really want to ride again.

Hi all im going to look at a 2010 sherco cabestany replica next week and just wondered if anyone had riden one before and what you thought of it. Also is there anything out of the ordinary I should look out for? The bloke is asking £2000 for it, is that a reasonable price? It seems a bit steep to me for a 4 year old bike. Any thoughts would be appreciated

Hi guys im dragging this threat out of the databanks! I need a spare wheel for my 2009 sherco 250 for peace of mind at a trial than anything else. Ive seen a few about for sale but for silly money. Whats the going rate for a complete rear wheel these days? If I can id like to get one same as mine with the black rim.

Yep that was the problem alright. Running like a dream now. Little bit smokey perhaps but hoping thats just all the wd40 and carb cleaner thats been through it burning off!! Thanks for all your advice everyone much appreciated.

Looks like your onto something there TLRMARK, I pulled the reed valve out at the weekend and one of the petals has snapped off and was lodged in the rubber boot. I think we may have found the problem. Ive ordered some new petals that should be here tomorrow, ill let you know how I get on.

Well ive changed both crank seals and its still no better. The clutch side crank bearing does sound a little noisy and there is a small amount of play in the stator side but that wouldnt stop it running right would it? Any more bright ideas? Could it be the cdi?

Yeh I took cylinder off and cleaned the crankcase out but not before trying to start it after giving the airbox and carb a quick clean to try and get it running straight away. I am also begining to think I may have goosed the bearings. I am going to try and replace the crank seals today to see if it is sucking air in through them. Oh and the stator and flywheel are dry and seem fine.

Yeh one of first things I did was drain fuel and put fresh in tank. Ive tried two different carbs on it, one with brand new jets in it, with same results. Would it still run if CDI was bust? I did think that the spark didnt seem that strong tho hence why I changed the plug.

It was running when it went under but only for a second coz I have a lanyard kill switch that killed it as soon as I came off. I havnt checked the reed valve tho might be worth a look.

Hi all I hope someone can help me coz im about stumped. Just over a week ago I dropped my bike and it got completely submerged in very muddy water. Obviously I was straight home to clean it all out, ive cleaned the airbox, carb, cylinder and crankcase and exhaust thorouly. Put it all back together and its running like a pig. It will not start or rev up without choke wether hot or cold and even with choke in it takes gentle persuasion to get the revs up, once it is reving reasonably hard you can knock the choke off and it will run well enough to ride it as long as you keep the revs high. It wont idle at all it just stalls unless the choke is in. I have tried two different carbs, all the carb settings under the sun, changed the spark plug all with the same result. What am I missing?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all, Im currently refurbishing my mates 02 280 txt pro but I stipped it down months ago and ive forgotten where some stuff goes. One of these things is the cdi (not the coil, just the large black box), it doesnt have any fixings on it and I just dont see where it fits. Any ideas or even better pictures would be greatly appreciated.

I mean the black tubes that slide inside the legs. I took of the burrs on the outside of the grooves the other day and sanded the outside smooth and it definately leaked less at todays trial. Ill try that repair with superglue this week and see how it gets on at the weekend.

Well I disassembled my front forks and gave them a thorough inspection today only to find that the legs have a couple of nice big gouges in them Is there any way of making a repair or will I have to start thinking about a new set of forks? Also how can you tell if the top bushes are worn?

Im pretty sure the sliders were fine but ill double check them tonight anyway. The black coating is slightly worn off in places tho could that affect it? I never dismantled the legs tho I didnt know they came apart, I just slid the seals over the top of the sliders. Is that a better way to do it? By removing the sliders first?

I didnt know the fork legs had top bushes. Can they be changed?? I replaced both the oil seals and the dust seals so I thought id be alright but they leak almost as badly as the old ones. I installed them by removing the forks from the bike, removing the dust seals then cleaned around the oil seals before removing them, then put in the new ones. Including new oil seal retaining clips.

Hi all, instead of forking out for the proper seals, I put a set of SKF seals from splatshop in my forks a few weeks ago but they have slowly leaked most of the fork oil out. Has anyone else used them and found the same or have I had some dodgy ones?? Or are they just poor quality anyway?

I used to have that bike, it used the ducati cdi and it was bolted onto a metal bracket that attaches inside the frame by the stocks, it was bolted with the bolt for the top of the tank. The red, white and green wire from the stator go to the cdi and yes the yellow wire is a 12v supply for the fan/lights etc but first it has to go through a voltage regulator/rectifier as the voltage from the stator increases with the revs. The rectifier sends anything over 12v to earth. Hope this helps

Lol the tank USED to be moulded around the screw inserts in mine but over time it has cracked around one of them so I have removed it completely ready for a plate inside instead. Hope it works as there's no going back now!