lamptramp

I am contemplating performing a complete strip and rebuild of my 2002 315R engine to fix the failed crank seals. While it is open I will look to replace all the various bearings and piston rings etc. It's been a long time since I worked deeply on any engine so I wanted to seek advice on this particular unit. I have normal tools but none of the specialist stuff yet that I'll probably need (like a crankcase puller, etc.). How straightforward is it to work on the HRC engine and are there any particular pitfalls I should watch out for? Thanks in advance

Thanks for your concern twinshocked, it is an 'R' plug, I solved that problem a while ago.

Chaps, thanks for your comments. I stripped and cleaned the carb at the weekend and the problem wasn't there. I checked the flywheel for play and it was solid as a rock. The local bike shop suspects it might be the crank seals (as lineaway suggested), if so it's gonna be expensive to have them do the work. So, if the seals do need replacing I may have to consider having a crack at it myself. I haven't worked on an engine since rebuilding a Ford Escort about 30 years ago, so could someone who has worked on this Honda engine please let me know how straightforward they are to work on? I have certain tools (ie. decent socket sets, torque wrench, etc.) but I guess there will be others that I need to get. Or is it really best to save up and leave this to someone who's properly tooled up?

My trusty 2002 315R has started to develop a new (and sporadic) issue. When it has been running for a while, it sometimes starts to rev up and down on its own in a rhythmical fashion. Any ideas on where I should start looking for the cause of this? I intend to get the carb off and give it a thorough clean but any other thoughts would be welcome.

I will check the plug, but why would the problem be intermittent if that was the case?

I have a 2002 315R that shows an intermittent problem: Every so often the engine note becomes a lot more 'poppy' i.e. more pronounced pop, pop, pop... than usual (it does sound like a lawn mower) and the power drops to about half of normal. Usually just cutting it out and then restarting it makes it go away fro a while - but that's not much use when you're in the middle of a climb on a section as happened yesterday. I've had the carb apart (a Keihin PWK 28 copy (Koso) put on by the previous owner) and have cleaned the jets out but it made no difference. Has anyone experienced this or have a clue as to where I might look for a solution? Many thanks

I've been really enjoying watching the daily video reports from the SSDT. I've noticed a common theme covering all of the sections shown: Gnarly rocks and plenty of water. As a matter of interest, are there any sections that aren't set in treacherous stream beds?

Well that's fine then! Just looking for ways to make the bike compensate even further for the below average rider, guess I'll need to look elsewhere for such improvements... Thanks to all for your advice. Steve

But isn't the floating only supposed to happen in the sideways axis, with no rotational movement?

Just learning more as I go along about the well worn 2002 315R that I bought recently and noticed that both the front and rear brake discs have a fair bit of movement in them. When you lock the disc, the wheel can still move. Roughly speaking, the disc moves on its mounting nuts by a couple of millimetres. Should there be any rotational play (can't think why) in the discs or are they just buggered? Thanks

Airoh should introduce a bowler helmet for the gentleman rider...

Cheers, I'll give it a go.

One of the fork seals on my 2002 315R has developed a leak. Could anyone advise how tricky it is to do a DIY replacement of the seals or otherwise suggest a UK based specialist who could carry out the work? Many thanks

That looks like a beautifully preserved example of the 315R, wish mine looked like that! I've just returned to trials after 28 years away and the 315R was my choice to ease me back in and I am very happy with it. Easy to ride, gentle but solid power delivery, good brakes and suspension - ideal. If you can get that one for the right price I would snatch the owner's arm off.

Thank you both, I will investigate the filter and the carb settings.

I recently bought a reasonable condition '02 315R to ease me back into trials after a very long time away. The bike generally runs OK, however, several times now it has faded away quite rapidly at higher revs. It's most noticeable while roading it in fifth. It rides OK for about half a mile and then the power just falls away and it cuts out - as though you'd run out of fuel. It will then start immediately and will run a little rougher than usual and either do the same thing or get over it. Any hints on what I should look for? Many thanks

Just bought my first trials bike for 28 years and went for a 2002 315R. It seems to run fine but I noticed today that after running for a while, thickish black oil is seeping from the exhaust - both at the point that it exits the engine and also the seal of the rear muffler. Is this to be expected or does it point to any particular problem? The current fuel mix is 50:1 as that's what the previous owner preferred to use - not sure which oil he was using. Thanks

Hi all, I'm returning to trials after a very long absence and looking to get a decent clubman bike. I am increasingly interested in getting a Mont 315R as they seem to offer a good compromise between purchase cost/reliability/rideability. Several people have told me to try to get a 2000-2004 model due to the uprated forks and brakes. But, for an average rider, is there a great deal of difference in the ride between the -1999 and 2000-2004 models? Is it worth the extra expense to hold out for a decent later model? Were there engine mods on the later ones too? Cheers

Nice vids. Dead jealous of your pile of stones!

After a long absence from trials I am finally getting back into it and hope to be competing in local clubman events as soon as possible. So at the moment I am searching for a suitable bike. I have so far briefly tried a 2008 TXT 280 and a 2010 TXT 300 and liked the feel of them. I have read on forums that a 250 would offer all the power I need (I'm 6ft and 14 st) and with a smoother response - and so that's what I'm probably looking for. Once I've sold my enduro bike I will have a limited amount of cash to spend (around the £2K mark) and I just wondered whether it is worth holding out for later models with regards to particular improvements that were made at the time. So were there any great improvements between the 2008 and 2011 (or even 2012) models that are worth seeking out in particular (or important faults that were solved) - or have the GG models been pretty consistent during this period and so it would not be worth shelling out extra pennies for later models? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give. Steve