purkyuk

When splitiing the motor the top side is very easy just a few screws and the cap can be removed and bearing is easily accessable/replaced. The bottom side is a little more difficult as the 4 x brushes lock around the armature by springs (and you need 3 hands lol). However, there is a nifty way to re-assemble quickly and easily. Take the bearing and lock all 4x brushes around the bearing, then slot the armature into the bearing carefully and slowing work/push the bearing in position. All 4 brushes will slide onto the armature and the bearing will sit in its correct position. With a torch you can crack open the motor to double check their positions. I hope this tip helps someone

I've seen the Mecatecno, Kuberg and the Oset at trial events and the Oset seems to be the best build quality. Performance wise, they are very similar, the Kuburg tyres are very poor but i'm sure they can be changed. There's no real difference in battery life, and they all last a typical trial event. The Oset bike's do have a lot more support from people on the Forum and also from Oset team themselves, as they are more popular. Spare parts are readily available online and ebay too. If I was in your shoes and had to buy my sons bike all over again, I would buy him an 2013/14+ Oset 16 ECO or R, no question about it!! (It might be more more money but you get what you pay for...)

See attached wiring diagram... Hope it helps Wiring diagram.pdf

Remove the plastic seat and check the date on the controller. This should help for an indication

After purchasing and testing one of these tamers on an Oset 16 36v I can honestly say that its a great piece of kit. Its essentially a tuning tool. The vmin and vmax can be optimised giving speed range and more importantly the power throughout the twist of the throttle. The accel and buffer are great for taking the snappiness out of the bike giving a steady acceleration, which is key for maneuvering and kids trials Also its small, compact and fits easily next to relay under seat discreetly. There was some teething issues with the controller in the beginning and special thanks to gwhy (Kevin) for the help and spending the time! Anyone else planning to buy one please make sure that you specify if its for an Oset!

Just finished upgrading to Shimano M355 hydraulics on my sons Oset 16 36v and what a difference! Its worth every penny! Shortening the pipes was easy too. Its ashame Oset dont put these on from the beginning.

Thanks for all your replies. Next question, with the Hope or Clark pre-blead brakes already made up, will these fit directly onto the bike without any modification? as the bike is quite small. I though maybe the pipes would have to be shortened? Also, how easy is it to shorten these pipes. I have no experience with hydraulic brakes on bikes, but quite a lot of experience with cars (changing calipers, bleeding systems, etc). Do you recommend changing the disk too? or will the standard 160mm be suitable as its seems in good condition.? Thanks again everyone!

Hi guys, Any recommendations for hydraulic brakes for the Oset 16 36V? Im looking to upgrade my sons bike as the current brakes are not responsive enough and very stiff. And advise greatly appreciated!

Its a fair point, the reason why I bought my son Oset was there is much more knowledge available on the net and more popular. Better for problem solving. Also as they have been selling these bikes for longer, on that bases i'd guess they would probably have more experience and already recified common problems.

Mint!

Hi guys, Again thks for your support and advise. Today we split the motor, we found that the bearing nearest the sprocket had worn, the other bearing and brushes were fine. Also we noticed excessive play in the sprocket itself, so will replace this too. As for spliting the motor... mmm... It was very tricky, as already mentioned the magnets are unbelievably powerful if you remove the armature, but as mentioned you dont need to do this to change bearings or brushes. We found a quick way of reassembling the brushes, if you take the bearing out behind the brushes and lock all 4 brushes around the bearing, then carefully slot the armature spindle into the bearing and slowly work it in. All brushes will finally sit in the correct position, this can be checked by reopening 1-2mm and shining a torch in the motor. Next step is to test it... Fingers crossed eh? Thanks again Dave

Firstly thanks for your quick replies. It doesn't seem to making a noise when the wheel is lifted off the ground, only when there is someone on the bike. I'll try splitting the motor and check the brushes and bearings, if it all goes wrong then I'll buy a new one. Also when taking the motor out do I have to remove the swingarm, as it seems a bit tight to get the motor out any other way. Thanks again, Dave

Hi guys, Just picked up a 2010 Oset 16 36V and noticed an intermittent problem. When the motor is running full open throttle or if the bike is slowing down there is a rubbing noise coming from the motor. It doesn't seem to happen when getting up to speed. First I thought it was from the chain against the plastic casing but in fact its coming from the motor. The sound isn't loud, and initial instinct was a wheel bearing, but is definiately coming from the motor. There doesn't seem to be any play in the bearings as rotation and chain tension seem fine. Has anyone else had a similar problem or any advise before stripping the motor? Also are these motors easy to split and anything I should be careful of? Any help is greatly appreciated. Dave