motopelli

Also it's a tight fir on the carb, my OKO is rotated ccw a bit to fit right

The second green wire, far right in your photo,goes to the kill switch, when grounded the ignition is shorted.

First shot try the Tryals shop in NY. Mike has a lot of Fantic parts and is always getting in more inventory. He knows Fantics inside out and is a good guy to deal with. Bob Wright is your next best bet, he may not answer his email for a week or so, or not at all. Try again, don't take it personally. I've found a lot of guys in the UK just operate differently than what we may be used to in the US. Personally I envy anyone who can operate a successful business and not have to be a slave to their email and phone. The UK is seven hours ahead of us. Call him in the morning, it's not that expensive and you can accomplish alot with one phone call. Also I'm always surprised at how quickly shipments arrive from the UK. Also Bill Pye is a great source but not very email friendly, definitely phone calls only for him. You bought a bike from a manufacturer that has been out of business since the late 1990's. Thanks to the internet, you can connect with people around the world who can provide just about any part you need. But you may have to put up with someone who doesn't worry about a mass merchandiser running him out of business. That's one of the reasons I'm addicted to these bikes

Torx bit seems like your next step but: if that doesn't work and you do need to get the drill out, order up a couple of left twist drills (they drill counter-clockwise). There's a good chance the the drilling will pull out the screw before you get too far

Ahh! Thanks for that lineaway! So, after all is said and done, keep the markings? or? Thank for everyones input

Thanks again. The info from trialsonline.org shows four Fantic riders for the US event: Michael Gunns Amos Bilbao Donato Miglio Bruno Camozzi Rider numbers are not shown, only finishing positions. But at least the list of suspects has been narrowed down. Anybody have info, pics, anything to narrow it to one? The next question is, does it really matter? If I restore the bike, should I preserve the markings? or photograph to document and then remove and paint? just remove and paint? or don't bother fixing up a worn out 307?

Thanks for the responses

Several years back I bought a well used 307. The seller purported that it had been used in the world rounds in the U.S. He pointed out the scrutineers markings on the frame and engine. I bought it pretty cheap so there was no "premium" for any type of history. Does anyone know who the Fantic 307 rider #22 might have been, in the U.S. (or Canada?) round circa 1990? Or any suggestions as to how to find out. Thanks Wayne

From a 307. Had to add the mounting ears on the bottom edge.

oops! apologies for the sideways pics. I should have known better...

Made a wiring harness and mounted the headlight on my 300

Yep, looks very nice as is.

Cool bodywork. Did you make it? buy it? or what? Are you sticking with the red frame? doesn't look like it needs paint yet

Thanks for the tips. I'm holding out for something a little more demure than the Acerbis, Moose, UFO options but may wind up taking that option. I'll call Lewisport to see what they have. Almost everyone removes their trials headlights, funny that there aren't any on ebay...

My 300 is in the middle of restoration and I've sourced almost all parts needed except... The bike is street licensed so I'd like for it to appear as somewhat street legal. I'm looking for a new headlight and so far haven't had much luck. I'd prefer something a little more modern looking (early '90's perhaps) and it will need to be able to acommodate 6 volt lights. A headlight from a 305 or similar would work pretty well. I've got a 307 light which is my fall-back option but it will require a little bit of fiddling to fit it cleanly. Anyone have an option of a good aftermarket unit available or a source for a reasonably priced OEM? Thanks Wayne

It's bolted to the airbox. The middle picture shows a slightly curved piece that goes inside the airbox and bolts through to the new ear which is internally threaded(no glue although I'd love to find a good cement for delrin)). It holds quite well and in retrospect I think I should have cut off the original ear altogether and made a new one held with two through bolts and backing plate. May still do that. I think you said it's an addiction; indeed it is

Fixed the broken ear on my 300

I went with a "chrome" powder coat on my frame and, while I'm happy with it, I'm going with the stock red for the 300 project. Still the thought of a black frame seems enticing. And with black wheels, hubs and engine; I'm thinking it's a winner

It's an "Answer" silencer/spark arrestor for a KX250. Shortened and modified to fit. I chose this one because of the off-center inlet, makes for a slightly better fit

Hello All, New member here. Been lurking quite some time and gathered a lot of info here for my Fantic 240 project. Finished it a few months ago and am now working on my 300. The information here has been invaluable so, well, just wanted to say thanks. Wayne

Hello All, Been lurking for some time and just found out that I could now join with my gmail address. Been riding motorcycles forever, dabbled (and dabbed) with trials for a few years in the seventies and have rekindled the passion. I figure the '80's bikes are high tech compared to where I left off and have recently developed a serious addiction to Fantics. I've gathered a lot of info from this forum and thought it was time to contribute whatever small bits I can to the group. Thanks Wayne