motopelli

Does anyone have a source for a 301 rear fender? Preferably someone who can ship to the US Thank Wayne

I have a rectifier at work and a container of electro cleaner at the ready so I decided to have a go at some cadmium plating using a kit from Casswell. . Mostly fasteners and small pieces. It’s critical to have the pieces extremely clean and finished, I.e. polished sandblasted etc. the way you want. It worked pretty well but not as good as professional. When I was done with my projects there was the issue of disposing of some nasty toxic chemicals. All in all I’d say, unless you’re jonesing for a new diy project, send it to a professional.

The Tryals shop in NY is a good source in the US. Plenty of suppliers in the UK as well. It surprises me how much is still available for these bikes. A new piston and rings though might take some time to find

Welcome 6bt, This is the Fantic part of the forum so you’re sure to get unbiased opinions! But really, they’re great bikes. I agree about yours probably being a 301. First year for the mono shock and front disc (with a funky cable/hydraulic system). Pretty sure Fantics never got any bigger than 247cc Mike at the Tryals Shop has a lot of Fantic parts and knowledge plus he’s in your own backyard. If Mike doesn’t have it, there’s an insane amount of support available from the UK and a wealth of info here.

Hi Nigel, My post above from January 21 shows the printed badges. I had them printed with a filament printer hence the coarse resolution. I’ll have access to an SLA printer shortly and will have another go at it then.

Hey Motosinge83, That looks sharp. I like the black background. Are they stickers?

Thanks Fourex. Thirteen tooth on order!

My 350 Jumbo had a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket which looks gigantic. Does anyone know what the original set up was for front and rear? Also are there supposed to be spacers between the front sprocket guard and the engine cases? Thanks

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Here is a formula and explanation of how to calculate your spring rate: http://www.bluecoilspring.com/rate.htm I've developed the habit of starting off with 10wt in one leg and 5wt in the other. Effectively yielding 7.5wt, then if you want to go up or down in weight you only need change one side

Sorry for the long delay in getting to the update. Thanks to zisco for the artwork I was able to create a better CAD. I had some printed out and they're just adequate. The resolution is pretty rough. Yellow plastic with painted lettering. These will be ok for now. I'm happy to share the CAD file with anyone who wants get there own made up.

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In the US, the Tryals Shop is your best bet for Fantic parts. If he doesn't have what you need, email Bob Wright and see if he has a "source coil" for the 300. I got one from him a few years back for mine and it didn't break the bank. Search back through the posts on this forum and you'll find a wiring diagram. http://www.bobwrightmotorcycles.co.uk/ http://www.tryalsshop.com/

Some good pictures here: http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Brake Arcing You'd probably need to do a dozen or more sets to justify making the tooling. Some claim that the drum should be trued only with the wheel laced and at full tension because it can change the shape of the drum

Hi Rick, My "good friend" brought in bikes from the UK and EU and swears he'll never do it again. Maybe you can ship several boxes of "motorcycle parts" and have no problems. And maybe customs will decide you need to send it back. If you do get it in and decide to sell it some day, the value is much less without a title. The one or two grand you may save could be quickly lost. Overall seems a big risk to me. Call Lewisport and tell them what you're looking for. Go to some PITS events and ask around. Expand your radius and check Oregon, SoCal, Arizona. It's not a wasteland here, you'll find something. Also, depending upon where in the bay area you are, if you have an OHV sticker you can ride Metcalf (smaller park with some nice trials areas) which is about and hour away or Hollister which is about another half hour further Happy Hunting!

Hey zisko, I tried sending you my info but got a notice that you can't receive messages

Using various pictures online, I've come up with these versions. The "W" on the right side badge seems to need a little tweaking. Do any of you have input as to how accurate this is, what to change etc? Once the 2D version is right, I'll make it 3D and shop around for an RP shop to print. If that works out I'll be happy to share

Hey motom, not yet. No reply from France so I'll probably ramp up the CAD and have them printed. The SWM has been on the back burner as I've been overwhelmed wt work. It's probably going to be a while before I get back to it but I'm happy to keep you in the loop when the time comes.

It looks like the ones from France are plastic so no problem there. If that doesn't pan out I'll do a CAD and have them 3d printed in plastic

Hi fourex, that seems a good solution, I'll contact them b40rt, thanks for the link, I was hoping for a straight on picture so I could trace it but that will be a good reference if I do wind up making them.

Here's my Jumbo project. I bought it as an unfinished project. It's slowly coming together. The tank was as knackered as you'd expect of a 30 year old bike, found a guy who polishes them up and he did a fantastic job, Now I need to make up some badges. Thinking of doing it in CAD and having them printed. If any one could provide straight on pictures of the right and left badges I'd much appreciate it. I'm happy to share the CAD file when done to anyone interested

Thanks jonboy and fourex. Dominoes it is and idler arm it shall be!

After much neglect I've gotten back to my Jumbo 350 project bike. The previous owner was about 90% done with the restoration when he took ill and was unable to complete. It's missing the front brake lever and I'm not sure what kind of throttle and clutch levers are on it. Could someone please tell me what levers and throttle were originally used on this bike? I'm hoping they used the same Domino gear that was on the Fantics as they work well for me. If possible I'd like to stay original or at least period correct. Also regarding the secondary clutch lever under the tank (not sure what else to call it) is angled slightly off of 90 degrees. Should it lean towards, or away from the center of the bike? Thanks

This might help a little. What they call OAL is measured from eye to eye http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/app_guide/dirtbikes.pdf

SWM is the standard abbreviation for "single white male" in personals ads. Therefore, since the bike is a male, the nipple serves no purpose