exman

That's it, You encircled the picture, Michelin X11 are on the way. Thank you Jonnyc21.

I can't tell about machine, but everything else I'd restore whispering.

Accepted. I intend to use Montesa on some trails occasionally, but from your answers can assume that trial bike is most efficient with trial tyres. No more doubts, tks guys.

Since my new bought preowned Montesa came with bad tyres, I'm wondering about some soft enduro tyres. Has anybody tried this, especially rear (tubeless)?

What to say..I just haven't seen this. It is nice to have someone so informative around, I'm gonna check that Mitani plate.

Actually it is not. I think they just added some 'meat' to make it stronger to hold screws (photo). It is not bad idea to remove it, but sometimes I'm in the middle of big flat meadow, and need to pee😄

Tks mate, I can proceed with assembling now.

Since I wasn't careful enough during dismantling, I am not sure whether Cushion arm plates are in right position or I have turned it upside down. It can't be determined from the photos in the Owners Manual..

It is in the stanchion tube, of course. I've heard that some super glue might help, I'll give it a try.. Regarding everything else, I'll keep on Manual and your little hints. Thank you mate!

I think it's time to see what is inside of front forks on my fresh bought 2009 Montesa, upper part is 39mm diameter black coated steel, lower is silver aluminum with NN-3-00-R/L stamped on it, but no Brand. In case that I have to replace some parts, how could I know whether it is Showa or Paioli or something else? And one more: is there any KNOW HOW to repair small dent on the upper (steel) part?

In other words, I'll better stay away? Honest advice, the last thing I need is endless adjusting. Thank you man.

i'am just negotiating for an old Sy250F and i've already heard about spongy clutch and lack of power at low revs...any other bad things, or any solution for these two?

I know I am a bit late but where are those holes should be positioned? i'm just about to buy SY250F and it seems I'll need all those mods to make it jump right.

The answers are relaxing and what's more important, are IDENTICAL. It's wintertime but the livin' is easy again. Tks guys.

Whenever started with choke it goes to high revs, so I have to kill the choke after 2-3 secs. Usually it kills the engine, so I have to kick it again (with the choke), kill the choke as it starts, and the engine continue to idle normally (probably warmed up). One more thing: mine is Sherco 2012 and it has the switch for two modes of throtlle response, but honestly I can't see the difference. Is there any proper way to check if it works at all?

As it seems 0.7mm would be good to start with (as soon as I convince that Sherco clutch to let go). Thanks guys!

Factory recommends 0.7-0.8mm, but I've found it as 0.5mm in SHERCOUSA booklet..any suggestion?

New question appears since I'm getting to know more and more about my second hand, eight years old mistress: My chain tensioner has plenty of free play, so I bought new bushes.Now I wonder if they are covered with teflon (there is some layer inside), because if they are, no grease should be used (that's how I have ruined Heim joint on my KTM). Old set is still working but I need proper info before I buy new chain tensioner due to worn out bolt or axle or whatever it is called..

So, you are saying that everything about that double blip trouble is just me and only me?!

I did check suspension and found out that four out of six needle bearings were frozen. I had to make bearing puller (overall cost 30$) since it was impossible to press the bearings out of swingarm housing. Had to replace suspension plate, all sbearings and seals, and everything works fine now, but ground clearance remained the same. Herebelow is the photo of the bearing puller (could be used on the dogbone too), and I can make a dimensioned drawing if anybody else like to do it himself.

jonnyc21: no worries and enjoy your riding! jimmyl: good idea, I will. tks!

I'm afraid "force at 10mm .." is too sofisticated for me. I measured spring free length, put prescribed preload and expected ground clearance according to the book. My next step will be bearings and bushes inspection (thanks to jrsunt). And after that, if you can be more specific with setings of the comp/reb, I would try with your number of clicks. Hope this is not too boring for you guys but in my age you have to be fast learner Bad weather next week means plenty of time for the inspection. Tks for the advice.

Does anybody know what are the spring rates for original springs, in other words do I have to change it with my 85-87kg (geared)?My Montesa is a kind of shorty with her 295mm, since Manual says that ground clearance should be 335mm . I haven't checked front spring yet, rear one and it's preload are as specified in Manual. Being not much of a rider I hope this might be crucial thing that will improve my otherwise enormous riding potential

Engine Ice did the job, fan is not running all the time any more which is acceptable for the time beeing (+15 Celsius outside). Next step is tea bag filter, fortunately I've found out the meaning of it. Hope you won't hear of me until next summer

Well, my next question is predictable: where to by lager radiator? I saw it on www.Montesa4RT.nl but no details. It is Full Power Kit. I'll try with Engine Ice first, hoping for the best. Many thanks for both of you guys, I'm a little bit less worried now.