exman

The answers are relaxing and what's more important, are IDENTICAL. It's wintertime but the livin' is easy again. Tks guys.

Whenever started with choke it goes to high revs, so I have to kill the choke after 2-3 secs. Usually it kills the engine, so I have to kick it again (with the choke), kill the choke as it starts, and the engine continue to idle normally (probably warmed up). One more thing: mine is Sherco 2012 and it has the switch for two modes of throtlle response, but honestly I can't see the difference. Is there any proper way to check if it works at all?

As it seems 0.7mm would be good to start with (as soon as I convince that Sherco clutch to let go). Thanks guys!

Factory recommends 0.7-0.8mm, but I've found it as 0.5mm in SHERCOUSA booklet..any suggestion?

New question appears since I'm getting to know more and more about my second hand, eight years old mistress: My chain tensioner has plenty of free play, so I bought new bushes.Now I wonder if they are covered with teflon (there is some layer inside), because if they are, no grease should be used (that's how I have ruined Heim joint on my KTM). Old set is still working but I need proper info before I buy new chain tensioner due to worn out bolt or axle or whatever it is called..

So, you are saying that everything about that double blip trouble is just me and only me?!

I did check suspension and found out that four out of six needle bearings were frozen. I had to make bearing puller (overall cost 30$) since it was impossible to press the bearings out of swingarm housing. Had to replace suspension plate, all sbearings and seals, and everything works fine now, but ground clearance remained the same. Herebelow is the photo of the bearing puller (could be used on the dogbone too), and I can make a dimensioned drawing if anybody else like to do it himself.

jonnyc21: no worries and enjoy your riding! jimmyl: good idea, I will. tks!

I'm afraid "force at 10mm .." is too sofisticated for me. I measured spring free length, put prescribed preload and expected ground clearance according to the book. My next step will be bearings and bushes inspection (thanks to jrsunt). And after that, if you can be more specific with setings of the comp/reb, I would try with your number of clicks. Hope this is not too boring for you guys but in my age you have to be fast learner Bad weather next week means plenty of time for the inspection. Tks for the advice.

Does anybody know what are the spring rates for original springs, in other words do I have to change it with my 85-87kg (geared)?My Montesa is a kind of shorty with her 295mm, since Manual says that ground clearance should be 335mm . I haven't checked front spring yet, rear one and it's preload are as specified in Manual. Being not much of a rider I hope this might be crucial thing that will improve my otherwise enormous riding potential

Engine Ice did the job, fan is not running all the time any more which is acceptable for the time beeing (+15 Celsius outside). Next step is tea bag filter, fortunately I've found out the meaning of it. Hope you won't hear of me until next summer

Well, my next question is predictable: where to by lager radiator? I saw it on www.Montesa4RT.nl but no details. It is Full Power Kit. I'll try with Engine Ice first, hoping for the best. Many thanks for both of you guys, I'm a little bit less worried now.

I wonder how often it will be in summer.

It seems OK. May be one of those special fluid, Engine Ice could help. Lean mixture can be the reason but I have no experience with EFI.

My new bought used Montesa starts fan after few minutes of use even in cold weather, and fun works almost all the time. Could it be wrong thermo switch or something more serious? Previous owner has been riding her for two years but did not think of it as a problem.

Thank you man, I'm sure this will be appreciated by many of us unfortunate souls

I'm sorry, haven't seen your post till today. Hope you are still interested.

I made it myself with a piece of aluminum and couple of pipe clips. Ready to post the pics if you are interested.

You can try www.trialstribulations.net.

Should be DOT4 for both clutch and brake. Mineral oil is mostly Magura and it is red so you can recognize it.

Bogme Dino, nema nam druge nego da osnujemo klub. Mislim da osim nas dvojice ima jos 2 trajala u Srbiji.

I would appreciate any info regarding fork oil change (at least grade and quantity of oil), my beloved one does deserve it. Tks

Mine is 06 and grab uphill well, could be carb issue. I am just careful not to touch the headpipe, but I have installed some kind of aluminum screen over the silencer, to protect my left leg. I made a screen on my KTM headpipe, it could be idea for you (fixed with two hose clamps, easy to move or remove). Hope the pictures shows what say.

Mine are Paioli, do you have any info or links to valid info? I'd like to change the oil and seals and to find stiffer springs if possible. Scorpa is '06 SY250. Any other advice would be appreciated of course.

According to the paper, 10/38 should be the final drive.