I have done a google translation of that part numbers explanation using google to keep for reference.I have attached it in case it may be of use to anyone.
Also thanks Turbofb that would be helpful when you get time.
Hi, Just taken delivery of this bash plate for my 1981 349 51M. Does anyone have and info on fixings? Nothing came with it so I need to acquire the suitable screws, bolts or whatever. There seem to 9 possible fixing points. Any info gratefully received.
I just can't get used to the kickstart, gear lever and rear brake being wrong way round and I'd need to get lugs welded on to swap over. Also gearing all wrong for road trials ?
I don't know if this is allowed so please remove if not.
I am thinking of selling my 1976 Sherpa 191 and would like an idea of what it might be worth. If any one is willing to help I can give details but most of work has been mentioned on this site.
Hi, managed to get an afternoon in the garage and discovered the plastic fuel tank on my 349, which shows signs of past repair, is leaking badly from underneath in a few places.
Hi, I have just emailed In Motion trials who I have bought lots of parts from in the past. They should have an answer. I'll let you know as soon as they reply.
Hi dr. I think I've traced why my forks didn't work properly when the wheel was in. They work perfectly without a wheel regardless of the rotation of the stansions. As you said neither the hub or brake plate belong to my bike and when I sent some pictures to InMotion trials they said the brake plate was off a Fantic and had no idea what the hub was from. I had to prise the fork legs apart to get the wheel in.
I had a friend machine the brake plate either side and take a little off the spacer so it was 1mm narrower than the forks and this seems to have worked.
I looked at a diagram of the 349 forks and the part you say is actually a second fork seal. When I rebuilt mine my local trials place who just happens to have an extensive knowledge of Montesa and Bultaco twin shock looked it up on his microfiche. I've attached the 349 manual I saw it on and hope it helps.
Cheers for that Dave, I've now found a 242 wheel and hub on fleabay and it certainly looks the same as one I've seen im some pics someone sent me. It needs a little work but hopefully.....
I see you're from Stourbridge, where I grew up ! Small world eh?
Nice posts. Dave and all the staff really do deserve praise. I've had loads of stuff from them in the last 12 months and now I have a Montesa as well as the Bultaco this will continue.
I recently needed a small part for the Bultaco forks and after a bit of a chat he realised what I needed.
It arrived the next day without an invoice so they hadn't charged me. Thanks guys.
Hi I think I'm going to need one of these. I've tried all sorts of things to make what I've got fit but it all looks wrong, unsuprisingly really, so all I can think of is getting an original wheel and brake plate. Anyone have one hanging around that needs a new home?
Having spent an hour with a friend trying to figure out the fork stanchion issue, I make a phone call to Bultaco UK who says I have the wrong front wheel and this is why it doesn't fit. I will get a smaller spacer made and see if this helps.
I can't remember if this bike was new to you or you've had it for a while before you broke the axle clamp. Welding up the axle clamp shouldn't do anything like you are seeing there unless the shoulder of the axle clamp now sticks out inwards compared to what it was before.
If you are not familiar with the bike, it is possible that one or both of the fork tubes was already bent and you are reassembling the forks with the tube bend in a position that causes the problem you are seeing
Hi, Yes I only bought this bike at the beginning of April.
I took the forks apart to clean up the internals and then discovered the broken axle clamp. I've only ridden it once, over rough ground, and this was after re-assembling them and this is when I noticed the stanchion sticking in the slider.
I will pull them apart again later and see if I can see if they are bent which, as you say, is most probably the case.
Again I tried to reassemble but with the stanchions in the clamps but not tightened to get the wheel in I have to prise the sliders apart a little and they will not compress and return.
Stanchions then pulled through the top clamp.
I have loosened everything off and loosely fitted the wheel and axle. As you can see in the pic the top of the triple clamp doesn't line up with the stanchion. There is a spacer on the pinch bolt side and as this bike does seem to have had a few things replaced ie the sliders I wondered if this wasn't the correct one.Anyone knew the correct size of the spacer. It's all I can think of.
There also seems to be a washer on the brake side, between slider and brake plate, and this is missing on mine but surely this would make it worse!
Putting the bike back together after having fork leg welded. All installed and forks are free to be pushed up and return well. When I put the wheel in, not simple as the wheel, brake plate and spacer are a tight fit, the forks are really hard to compress and when compressed do not return without pulling back on bars.
349 bash plate
in Montesa
Posted · Edited by netley
Spelling
Hmm. I offered it up this morning and it didn't line up. The whole thing has perhaps "spread"
The bike came with a bashplate that hung from the rear cross member where it shoukd bolt to.
Any idea how I should proceed?
The engine is in so might it be prudent to take the engine out and then fit the plate before replacing the engine?
Thanks for the replies.
Neil