thesaint

Neither of the pictures i posted is of the bikes my friend have looked at. These are just pictures from the internet. I was told today the Raga with gold painted frames was sold in 2009 and 2010 and this by a person that repairs Gas Gas bikes. Well, now i know what the difference is. My friend looked at another bike today. It is a 2015 Jotagas JTG that looks not to have been abused and the bike have a really nice price as well. But i really do not know so much about Jotagas either other than what i have read about it here on the forum

A friend of me had a Beta he sold and he regrets it so he wants to buy a used Gas Gas TXT. We have looked at ad`s for both 2012 Gas Gas TXT 300 Racing and a 2009 or 2010 Gas Gas TXT 300Raga. This bike have the gold painted frame and was it not the 09 and 10 that came with agold painted frame. Can any body tell what the diffence is of these models? If there is any differnce other than the paint on the frame and engine

Thanks a lot for you replys here ☺️ ☺️ What i can tell you about this bike is that when cold and the choke on it usually (not usually but always) starts on the first kick and if not it starts on the scond kick. When the bike warm it always starts on the first kick. The bike works perfect and i have had no problems with this bike. Since this TXT Pro have had the electric fan wired so the fan motor runs all the time i do not know if the engine speed change if the fan is connected -disconnected I will check the thermostat in hot water since i have a feeling that the thermostat is broken so that is why the previous owner wired it so it runs all the time.. I would think having the electric fan motor working all the time do wear the electric fan motor out faster compared to having the electric fan motor starting to work when the thermostat send signal for the fan motor to run or what do think? If i put a bypass toggle switch on it to manually control the fan i will probably forget to switch the fan on so i will nott do that. If bypass toggle switch works like an on off switch that is. I was not aware of the fact that the engine idle speed to change when the fan kicks in. I have to check my settings on this website since i do not get emails when my post get a reply

I guess the thermostat on this bike i not working as it is supposed to since they have wired the electric fan so it runs all the time. On 1 of my Gas Gas TXT Pro bikes the fan is wired so it runs all the time. I supposed that i should i wire it back so it kicks in according to the thermostat Having the fan running all the time is not best for the electric fan motor so what do you think?

I would think the most easy way to lower the compression is to shim the spark plug. All you will have to do is to put a washer on the spark plug so the spark plug sits higher. Having said that i do not know if putting a washer on the spark plug is not recomended but i am sure other members here on the forum knows. I have read about people doing this to lower the compression but if it works it is not much job to lower the compression just by putting on a washer on the spark plug. My 2006 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro and a 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro starts really easy. When the bike is cold i put the choke on and the bike usually starts on the first or second try. When the bike is warm i jus give it a little throttle and it starts on the first try

There are incorrect descriptions both in the paper manual that came with the bike when new and also the PDF owner's manual for 2006 Gas Gas TXT Pro. I noticed this the first time i had a look at the manual. There might be more wrong stuff in the manual for what i know. Is it typical for Gas Gas to have incorrect info in the owners manual? Does other years of Gas Gas TXT have incorrect info as well? Have a look at the 3 pictures posted below. The pictures below is of page 20, 22 and 29 in the manual.

I asked a seller on ebay about the decal set and the below is the question i asked and the ebay sellers reply: My question: Hello. I just wonder if this decal set for Gas Gas TXT Pro is made of thin vinyl that applied on the bike using soapy water or if is more thick decals with glue on the backside? I have 2 TXT Pro bikes i am thinking of replacing the decals on. Hope for a quick reply Regards The ebay sellers answer: Hi they are printed on high tack self adhesive vinyl & laminated with thick MOTO X quality gloss laminate making them a thick decal. Regards

So the decal sets are made of film that you use soapy water when applying it on the bike. This film is so thin. I thought it was kin of "thick" stickers with glue on the backside. I once had a company close to where i live making a proper decals set for an old TXT 321 for me and i do not think i paid more for that job than what the decal set cost on ebay. Perhaps if i buy a decal set and have this compane just use them as templates and have the company make a proper set of decals with glue on the backside is the way to go?

Jus back home from the post office after getting the new float valve/needle in the mail for my TXT Pro. When looking at the picture of the spring loaded needle i still think that if you take out/off the spring for the needle will not make any diffence at all since the needle will go up and shut off the fuel when the float chamber is full just as easy (if not more easy) without the spring. The spring loaded needle sit on the carburetor just like it is shown on the picture so what the spring does is to push the needle down towards floats You can see where i have tried to draw a yellow spring

It is this combo posted by agiow: 9 / 48 is the way to go on a 125 GasGas you are agree on right? I have 9 / 46 on the bike right now so i do not think i woulld notice any difference going up to 49 or 50 rear sprocket

I might try it if it will produce a noticeable change 😊 😊 If it is not the "big" thing on the 2005 TXT 125 Pro i can use the sprockets on my TXT 250 Pro

They sell complete new decal sets for trial bikes on eBay for a cheap price so i wonder if any here on the forum have put on these new decal sets? If you have put a new decal set on your bike so please tell us about the quality of the decal sets and please post a picture of your bike with new decals 😊 😊 The picture below of a decal set for a Gas Gas TXT Pro is from ebay, UK

On my Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro i have a 9 tooth front sprocket (if i counted it correct) and what i think is a 46 rear sprocket. If i go for a 11 tooth front sprocket and a 49 tooth rear sprocket will i notice any differnce? I must say that i have a feeling that i will not notice any special differnce if i replace the front 9 tooth and rear 46 tooth sprockets with 11 t and 49 t sprockets or am i wrong?

Thanks for letting me know 👍 👍 I was not aware of that.

Thanks for posting the picture and the help 😊😊 The fuel/air mixture screw i have on the bike is the one to the right without the spring (Screw number 3 from the left) The fuel/air mixture on my bike is turned out 2 turns as the bike is today (it runs great) But i will turn the out the fuel/air screw close to 2 more tuns out so it will be 4 turns out from fully closed and check how that works 😊 You are absolute correct about screws can vibrate loose and fall off so i usually checks that. I have to say that when i check for loose screws i have never checked any adjustemnt screws on the carburator. Update! I have adjusted the fuel/air screw from fully in to a little over 3 turns out. With the fuel/air screwed out a little over 3 turns compared to 2 rounds out it used to be i can not tell any difference of the mixtture settings. When adjusted the fuel/air screw out 4 turns the screw feels a little to loose so for my liking. I think that there is a chance the fuel/air screw can vibrate loose. Anyway the bikes runs great with the fuel/air mixture screw adjusted out a little over 3 turns out from fully closed. The bike starts really easy both cold using the choke and warm with a little throttle with this mixture setting.

According to the parts diagram part 27 is needle slow and part 28 is Jet slow 30. Below is a drwaing of the carburetor and the parts list When you open the drawing in a new window you can enlarge it and easy see the parts

I just noticed first now that you wrote that the mixture setting for the fuel/air screw is 4 turns out. Is that not much? Before i tried to start the bike i had the setting on 1 and 1/2 turn out and after i started the bike i opened the fuel/air screw a little more so on my bike it is almost 2 rounds out now. The bike runs great but should i try to open up more? The pilot jet was and is open and in perfect order on my bike. I would not mind having the bike going slower so i do not know if i can tell if i put on a 9 tooth front sprocket front and 48 tooth rear sprocket? I think the front sprocket is a 8 tooth and the rear sprocket is a 42 tooth. Something tells me i will not notice any big difference with a a 9 tooth front sprocket front and 48 tooth rear sprocket

On my TXT 125 Pro the protector rubber is not on the bike. I ordered the part some time ago so i have it on the shelf so i will put it on the bike. I just put it on the bike where it is supposed to sit and to me it does not look to protect much i have to say. It is part 41/41A on the picture below. Also shown with a blue arrow.

Thanks a lot for helpful info 😊😊 I have to admit that i have not been working on motorbikes since i was a teenager. But i work a lot on sporty cars. When you say the main jet needle do you mean the needle that is shown as part 36 on the parts list/drawing at the bottom here? I did test the carburator flow valve by blowing in the fuel line and lifting the needle on the float valve so i knew the float valve was shut so there was no way the fuel could get in the float chamber. That was the first thing i did after i noticed the float chamber had no fuel at all. But before i took off the carburator i had already phoned a friend of mine that is a motorbike mechanic so i was on my way to him anyway. If i had fixed the float valve myself i would have freeded up the stuck float valve but i would not have noticed that the spring pushed the tip out to far as my friend noticed. But perhaps the float valve would have worked even if the tip on the float valve was sticcking out to far for all i know 😊 😊 I have off course ordered a new float valve to put in the carburator. Having said that the float valve that sit in my carburator with no spring is working perfect. Even if i park the bike without turning off the fuel tap the carburetor does not overflow. Note that i always turn off the fuel tap but in this case i left the fuel tap open for a couple of hours just to check if the carburetor would overflow with the spring taken off the float valve. I am still saying that the float valve will work as it is supposed to without the spring. When there is enough fuel in the float chamber the float will rise and hit the needle on the float valve and the valve will shut off the fuel since the chamber is full. But i agree with you. There should be no parts left out in the carburetor or other parts on the bike. I had adjusted the fuel/air screw all the way in and turned it out back 1 and 1/2 turn but when the bike ran on idle i turned the fuel/air screw open close half a turn more. I was really lucky with the idle since it was almost perfect. As i said i was sure the bike would be hard to start after i had put the airbox with airfilter back was not the case at all 😊😊 The bike starts really easy 😊😊 From what i found out. When cold turn on the choke and the bike will star on the first or second try onthe kick starter. When warm just open up the throttle a little and it usually starts on the first try 😊😊 I have heard many replaces the Dellorto carburator with Kehin carburators but if you ask me the Dellorto carburetor on my bike sure is easy to start and runs great the little i have used the bike. About the 3% oil mixture is because i just thought it was better to use more oil since the bike have been standing since 2017. We are talking about 2 liters of fuel with a 3% oil mixture. When that is used up i will use 2% oil mixture in the fuel. I have always thought that on a 2 stroke it is better with to much oil than to little oil in the mixture. So i as said the 3% oil mixture was just to be on the safe side since the bike have been standing for so long. I would not have thought that the bike would be so easy to start. Especially when thinking of the short travel of the kick starter. Thanks for all the help 😊😊

I forgot to say that i took apart the carburetor some years ago and cleaned it. So this evening i took off the carburator to check it. Big was my suprise when i was to drain the float valve chamber and there was absolute no fuel at all in the float chamber. The float valve was stuck. So then i took the carburator to a friend of mine that is repairing motor bikes and he first loosened the float valve but he also said the spring on the float valve was sticking out to far. So he tried to shorten it by re-fasten the 2 tiny small brass parts that hold the spring in the float valve but one of the small brass fasteners broke off so he took off the spring since it will work without the spring. After he fixed the float valve he checked the rest of the carburator. I guess the float valve was stuck because the carburator have been standing dry for a long time. Note that when i took the carburator apart a few years ago i managed to pull out the tip on the float valve, so i just put the tip back in the float valve and put the carburator back on the bike. But if i remember correct i did check if the float valve chamber had fuel it after i have had the carburator apart which it did. I guess that the fact that i pulled the tip of the float valve out can be the resason for this problem as well? I guess it is not good to let the bike stand parked for a long time without any fuel in the carburetor or what do my fellow members here think about that? So when i came back home i put the carburator back on the bike, gave it a couple of sprays with fuel using the spray bottle and the bike started really easy and works runs great now 😊😊 Since it was late i just wanted to make sure the bike ran proper. The only work i had to do was to adjust the idle a little bit. I really hope the bike starts just as easy when i put the airbox with air filter back on the bike. Great if it starts as easy as it did today when i gave the carburator i couplle sprays with fuel 😊😊 I will order a new float valve just in case. I need new anti freeze as well since i have not checked if there is enough or any coolant on the bike. I really do not feel for driving the engine to hot so i will change the anti freeze before use the bike.

I have an 2005 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro that i have been standing since 2017 without being started. I tried to start the bike today but it would not start. The first thing i did was to check the for spark (which is okay) After that i took off the airfilter box and rear fender. I found an old hand pump spray bottle which i poored gasoline with 3% oil mixture in thinking of spraying fuel in to the carburettor. I am aware that it is supposed to be 2% but since the bike have not been started for a long time i decided to use 3% oil mixture. So the first time i tried to start the bike i sprayed in 2 spray pumps with fuel from the the spray bottle. This was enough that the biked was about to start but stopped. On the second try i sprayed in 6 or 7 pumps of fuel using the spray bottle and the bike started really easy and ran for a little over 10 seconds before it stopped. I wonder if the settings both for the air/fuel mixture is wrong after i had the carburettor apart? I hope that some here on the forum can help me with the standard settings for the fuel/air mixture and also the standard setting for the idle screw. I seem to remember that the air/fuel mixture is to screw the air/fuel mixture all the way in and the turn it back out about 1 and 1/2 turn back but i want to check that for sure so i hope some here on the forum can help me out. When i use the hand pump and spray in about 7 pumps of fuel the bike runs great for about 10 seconds before it stops. So this is a fuel issue. Since i do not remember for sure which of the screws on the picture of the carburettor is the fuel/air mixture screw and which is the idle screw? See the picture below where i have marked what i think is the fuel/air screw with a yellow arrow and what i think is the idle screw with a red arrow.

My 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro have been standing unused for the last 2 or 3 years. I have not tried to start the bike since it is stored down the basement. So when the engine is not running and i put it in gear and pull the clutch handle it is like the clutch is not engaged at all. Note that clutch lever have normal resistance when pulled and do feel okay Will i have to bleed the clutch or will the clutch start to operate like normal after i have used the bike a little? Before any writes that it is only to take it outside and check it the bike the bike is parked for the winter and i would also have to move hole lot of stuff to get the bike outside Another thing i wish was better is the short travel of the kickstart on the Gas Gas TXT bikes and especially on my 2005 TXT 125 Pro

I have a question about the reed valve as shown on the first picture for my 2005 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro and my 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro On the top picture you see the reed valve i am wondering about and on the picture furthest down you see how the air box is on my TXT Pro bikes On my 2 bikes there looks to be no reed valve at all since the air box (everything behind the carburetors is like on picture 2 with no reed valve between the carb and air box Is this correct? Also both bikes have Dellorto PHBL carburetors and i wonder if these carbs are lousy quality carbs?

The Gas Gas importer here in my country could not get hold of the pins that sit on the end of the wires that goes to the stator harness CDI box connector but i had to get the pins with wires at VW Thats not a big plus in my book for the Gas Gas importer

That is what i always do on my bikes ☺️☺️