thesaint

If i have calculated this correct using 80:1 and so on fuel / oil mixture and came to the percents as seen below: 70:1 is in percent: 1.43 percent mixture 32:1 upto 80:1 is in percent: 32:1 is 3.13 % and 80:1 is 1.25% mixture 85 to 1 is in percent: 1.18% mixture 60:1 is in percent: 1.67% mixture 50:1 is in percent: 2.00% mixture The fuel oil mixture mambers here are using is from 1,18% to 2% mixture Is not 85:1 or 1,18 % to lean oil fuel mixture? Also is not 32:1 or 3,13% is to rich oil fuel mixture? On a 2 stroke engine i have always thought that it is better to run a to rich fuel / oil mixture than a to lean mixture Thinking a to rich mixture can cause your bike to smoke a lot but a to lean mixture can ruin your engine? What do you think?

Well, non of my trial bikes is going to be used to anything other that some steep hill, forst driving and no competition so i guess if i put a tube in one rim really does not matter So it will be a tube in a tubeless tire....Just until i have replaced some spokes on the original rear rim for this bike... oni nou. The black painted rim is an original Gas Gas rim but it is not original to a 2005 Gas Gas TXT Pro. The rim is from a newer Gas Gas bike i was told by the Gas Gas parts company here where i live. The text on the rear rim says exact the same as on the original / spare rim i have for the 2005 Gas Gas TXT Pro. Morad Spain and so on...

I just wanted to check the oil / fuel mixture my fellow members here are using. Also does any found any oil brand that you are more pleased with than other oil brands? I have a 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro, 2005 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro and i use 2% oil / fuel mixture. In the owners manual for the 2006 TXT 250 Pro it says 2% oil mixture I can not find the owners manual for the 2005 TXT 125 Pro but i found the 2004 owners manual for the TXT 125 Pro and the 2004 owners manual says 1,5% oil mixture. Any here knows if it is 1,5% or 2% for the 2005 TXT 125 Pro? The oil i am using now is Motul 2T, 710, 2 stroke oil 100% synthetic I have never used Motul oil before but i guess Motul fully synthetic 2 stroke oil is the same as GRO oil I know many Gas Gas owners like to use GRO oil but is there any here that have a oil brand that you find better than other oil brands?

The oil that always have been used on my Gas Gas TXT Pro bikes is GRO oil (Global Racing Oil) But i can not get GRO oil here now so i bought Motul 710 fully synthetic 2 stroke oil from the local Moto Guzzi dealer I suppose that it is okay to use Motul 710 fully synthetic 2 stroke oil on my 2005 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro and 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro bikes? In the owners manual it says to use 1.5% mixture of petrol and synthetic orsemi-synthetic 2-Stroke oil. The TXT 125 Pro have been standing unused for over a year so should i use 2% mixture og petrol and synthetic oil? This since the bike have been staning unused for over a year. In the owners manuai It says to use 10w40 oil in the sump but i have read that many use 75W oil and also ATF oil so which is the best oil to use? I get 45 percent discount on all kind of Mobil oils and lubricants so can i use Mobil oil? But as i said my bikes are used to running GRO oil

So it is the black paint that gives the rear wheel away..I have never thought of that. But i have another rear rim which is alumimum coloured (the original rim for this bike) that i ready top go on the bike with a almost new tire that i had forgot. I can check and see if that wheel holds air a little longer and swap rear wheels. That is a 5 minute job Anyway on the wheel that leaks air i guess i will replace the rim flap and clean the rear wheel proper

Forgot to update this thread I have finally bleed the rear brakes on the bike This is how i did it I took off the rear brake pump and used a large syringe with a 1 inch lo hose on the and then filled the syringe with brake fluid and attched it to the rear brake pump (was careful so there was almost no air in the large syringe) While i used vacuum and bleed the rear brake caliper i pressed brake fluid in the large syringe into the rear brake pump until i saw there was no more air and then i closed the bleed nipple on the caliper I already had brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir which i had plugged using a screw. When i.took off the latge syringe on the brake pump i did my best to to quickly get the brake hose from he brake fluid reservoir on to the brake pump This so i would get as little air as possible in the system After i had done this i topped up the brake fluid reservoir and and bleed the rear brake caliper using vacuum Doing it like this the job with bleeding the rear brake caliper worked like a charm and it took me about 30 minutes But jeez so much trying this and that to get this little job done....

Just took the brake pump off of the bike and also took off the brake fluid hose that comes from the rervoir Then i used the syringe to press quite a bit of brake fluid into the brake pump while i also used the brake bleed that use vacuum I managed to get all of the brake fluid i wanted into the brake pump doing this The only thing is that is different is that i turned the brake fluid inlet on the brake pump (where the brake fluid hose from the reservoir goes) to point up whil i filled it using the syringe. The normal postition for the brake fluid inlet on the brake pump is that it points down since the hose for the brake reservoir goes under the engine and so up and into the brake pump

If i am not using a tube i wil rather carefully take off the rim flap and clean it with soapy water. First i will use a steel or brass brush to clean the sides of the rim and where the trim flap sits and so clean everything with soapy water If i do not use a inner tube But i guess if i clean the rim flap and rim the wheel will hold air

The rear brake caliper is a brand new one 100 percent identical to the old one The rear brake pads are brand new I went out and bought a brake bleeder that i hook up to my air compressor and build up some air pressure ( see the attached picture) and you put the black end on the bleed nipple on the rear caliper after you have opened the bleed nipple a little and pull the lever on the brake bleeder and the the brake fluid is supposed to be pulled thru the bake system because of vacuum. Not even this worked. I think i will try to replace the brake line that goes from the brake reservoir to the brake pump and the i will fill the syringe with brake fluid and try to get some brake fluid into the brake pump. I will off course take off the brake pump

Forgot to write it the first post that the bike have been sitting for a few months without any rear brake caliper all of the brake fluid is drained out. I am using DOT 4 brake fluid as it says on the cap for both the front and rear brake Thinking of raiseing the bake so much that the front wheel is standing up against the wall? I will try that I will have a close look on the brake hose where it attaches to the brake pump Just googled tand found the below answer where it says to use a empty syrringe to create vacuum from the rear caliper, What is written below is about Gas Gas rear brakes from this forum as well Fill the reservoir, then putting the empty syringe on the bleed nipple and as you pump the break lever start to pull the syringe creating a vacuum and when you get to the end of the syringe lock the nipple and repeat process,

I am trying to bleed the rear brakes on one of my trial bikes a 2005 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro I just found out that trying to bleed the rear brake is not an easy job. I have changed the rear barke caliper with a new one since the bleed screw was broken when i bought the bike I have also replaced the rear brake reservoir with a new original one since i managed to ruin the rubber gasket/seal on the old rear brake reservoir First i tried by filling up the rear brake reservoir with brake fluid and push the brake lever but it seems that no brake fluid is coming into the brake pump. I have also tried to backbleed the rear brakes using a large syringe and push the brake fluid thru the bleed screw when i had loosen it a little but that did not work and it just made a mess with brake fluid on the floor. Next i was thinking of taking off the brake line that goes into the brake pump on the underside and try to use the syringe to get some brake fluid into the brake pump. Any of my fellow members here on the forum have any ideas on how to do this the easy way? .

The leak is on my 2005 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro i can off course take off the rim flap (see the red arrow on the drawing from the parts manual below) and clean the the "groove" in the rim where the rim flap sits and also clean the sides on the rear rim and hope that this will fix the leak I suppose that this is the best way to fix the leak, Never had any problem with the tires leaking air on my 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro and or my 1998 Gas Gas TX 321 Contact there are no problems with any leaks on the wheels at all

The rear tire on one og my bikes is leaking out all og the air within a few hours. The tire size is 4.00 R18 so what do you think of putting a inner tube in the tire? I read that tube size 110/90-18, 110 /100-18 and 120/100-18 will fit the 4.00- R18 rear tire. Any knows if this is correct? Link to ebay where they say the tube fit the dim above: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-ULTRA-HEAVY-DUTY-4mm-INNER-TUBE-MX-MOTOCROSS-OFF-ROAD-110-100-18-120-100-18/291402295585?hash=item43d8ee2921:g:KhwAAOSwZjJU~XGd

On my the rear tire on my 2005 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro the air leaks out within 14 hours or less. Looking at the parts list i can tell that there is a tube in the front wheel but it does not say if there is a tube in the rear wheel? Any here knows if the bike came with a tube or not?

Of course the decals can be changed but after i found the thread here on the forum that explains the decoding of the numbers (see my answer number 3 from the top) i was pretty sure that the red 250 is a 2006 model and the yellow 125 is a 2005 model I also read that one easy way to check which year the Gas Gas bike is made is to count 4 digits from the end of the numbers and the fifth number will be the model year The last 4 numbers-letters is the sequential chassis number so the fifth number when counting from the end towards the beginning the fifth number is the model year of the bike/the year the bike was made

The first picture is of the red TXT 250 Pro and look the yellow arrow pointing to the to decals saying: TXT Pro 06 The second picture is of he yellow TXT 125 Pro and look at the red arrow pointing to the decals saying: Pro 05 I would think that indicates that the TXT 250 Pros is a 2006 and that the TXT 125 Pro is a 2005 model

I googled how to tell wich year the bikes are and from what the site i read about this they said that count 4 digits from the end of the chasssi number and the fith number is the year So if what i read is correct the gas Gas TXT 250 Pro is a 2006 model year and the Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro is a 2005 model year The chassie number on the 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro is: *VTRGG2502G04 6 0749* and i let the digit 6 have space before and after since that is the model year. The chassie number on the 2006 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro is: *VTRGG1202F02 5 0508* and i let the digit 5 have space before and after since that is the model year. Here is a picture of both the red 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro and the yellow 2005 Gas Gas TXt 125 Pro On the decals on the red TXT 250 Pro it says TXT Pro 06 and on the yellow TXT125 Pro the decals says Pro 05 I found the below here on this website: Example: VTRGG 3002 D093 9955 VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas GG =Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads) 3002: 30 = 300 model. 02 = (02 = year of Europe homogulation N/A USA) D093: D = 2003 ALPHA CODE FOR MODEL YEAR. 09 = Manufacture month (9TH month) September. 3 = Year of manufacture 2003. 9955 = sequential chassis number. (9,955th built in this year.) “Alpha” model year codes Model engine size codes D = 2003 J = 2008 12 = 125cc E = 2004 K = 2009 20 = 200 model (175cc) F = 2005 L = 2010 25 = 250cc G = 2006 M = 2011 28 = 280 model (272cc) H = 2007 N = 2012 30 = 300cc Edited March 16, 2013 by richt

Thanks cascao That makes sense except there will not be any speedometer as long as i own the bike The wire was not attached since the old rear brake caliper was broken so i installed the wire when i put on the new rear brake caliper so i wonder if it sits correct?

I do not remember how to tell the the year of the bike from looking at the VIN/chassis number. The first 2 pictures is of a 2006 Gasgas TXT 250 Pro and the last 2 pictures is of a 2005 GasGas TXT 125 Pro Can any here help me check that the year of the bikes is correct?

Earlier today i was looking at a 2005 GasGas TXT 125 Pro and also a 2006 GasGas TXT 250 Pro and i bought bouth bikes since they was looking good and the TXT 125 Pro had a engine overhaul not long ago The only thing i had to do was to replace the rear brake caliper (a brand new rear brake caliper came with the bikes) When i changed the rear brake caliper about an hour ago i see this wire that is fastened on the rear brake caliper using 1 screw. What is the purpose of the wire? Also have i placed it correct? See the red arrow on the picture

I am thinking of buying the 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 since it has an okay price and the bike looks to be very well cared for The bike have just been joy rided and not used in competitions The bike have almost not been in use the last years but it have been started now and then

From what i can tell this is a 2002 bike

Great if it is a 2002 model instead of 2001 What is the differenceof a 2001 vs a 2002 model? Forgot to tell that the bike comes with a new rear fender and a new front fender If i buy it i would like to have the bike in Repsol decals and colours On my Gas Gas i have adjusters on both the left and right fork leg but on this 2001 Montesa Cota 315R it looks like there only is an adjsuetr on the right side fork. Is the Montesa supposed to only have a adjuster on the right fork or is one adjsuter missing? See the red arrow on the picture below

I wonder if it is correct what i read in the parts manual that the 1999 TXT 249 and 270 use copper washers for the bolts that attach the cylinder head but the TXT 320 use O-rings on the bolts that attach the cylinder head? I somehow find it difficult to imagine using O-rings under the cylinder head bolts as it says is used on the TXT 320 See the top picture for the cylinder head bolts/washers. The 320cc is to the right on the drawing The left side fork adjuster on my bike is stuck. Any member here knows what can cause that and how to fix it? Do i take off the large nut on top of the fork to get the adjuster off like seen in the picture in the middle(see the red arrow)? Also that the parts marked with red text is the parts for the top of the fork adjuster seen in the diagram at the bottom

I can get this 2001 Montesa Cota 315R for $1150 or 750 GBP. What do you think of the bike from looking at the pictures? Everything on the bike is in working order and the bike does not need any work so it is just to hop on and ride the bike Well, i suuppose i will need to change the oil since the bike have not been used for some years according to the seller I could off course paint the bike if i buy it Do you think i sould buy this Montesa Cota 315R? If i buy it i would like to get the bike looking like a Repsol bike I suppose the 315 R is the same bie in 2004? Note that i already have a Gas Gas TX 320 that i just put on a 3,5 liter fuel tank(see the bottom picture)