strugglinon

Well Ive managed to sort it all out. the gasket between the reed block and intake manifold was letting air in. Took me ages to find because I took the reed block off to seal the motor for a vacuum test. the gasket in question was a piece of gasket paper, cut out to fit. Replaced it and happy days. i like this old bike. It rides really nicely.

Ok, I've put a new main seal in on the dry side. carb has been cleaned in the ultrasonic bath. can anyone tell me what size the pilot jet should be? the motor is behaving the same way. Revs begin to rise steadily then level off. A bit of choke settles it down, so it's still running lean. hmmmmm?

I'll pull it out and get it through the ultrasonic cleaner too. I just need to go through the bike completely. It will make a nice bike I reckon.

Thanks for the clarification. It rides really nicely. Just got sort out this problem, then I can concentrate on tidying it up a bit.

I meant '94 not '93. took it as a '94from the frame number? "1694" (160cc 1994)? do you know the year from the frame number? regardless of that, any ideas on the running issues?

So I've got myself another project bike. '93 JTR160 with a 250 motor in it as the previous owner couldn't find a 160 piston. it starts 2nd kick no problems, runs off choke happily. After 5-10 mins or so it's revs begin to pick as if the dry side main seal is passing air. let it cool down and it's back to normal. ill do a vacuum test on it this week, but could it be a stator problem? any suggestions? graeme

Hi Ross, there's an Allen bolt 6 or 8mm to drain out your Gear oil. DO NOT loosen the 13mm bolt next to it. That's your kick start return spring retainer. 1litre of Putoline light gear oil will do nicely. oh and you'll never ever find a workshop manual for it. Proper hen's teeth job. ive recently rebuilt a 280, ask away if you get stuck. Graeme

Well it turned out to be a leaking main seal on the dry side. all sorted. rode it a Trial on Sunday and I'm afraid it's not for me. I prefer a newer bike. anyone want to buy a Climber 280??

Hey, thanks for that Ross, I'm pretty sure it's in the right position, so I'll check for air leaks on the inlet rubber. Suppose it's all fairly old rubber on there. got to say, it was nice to ride on it today, albeit briefly!

The clutch is sorted. The basket I'd got from SWM Moto was the same part number, so that ruled that out. Everything else was in place. b40rt had pointed me to another link regarding clutches. I degreaser then went over the driven steel plates with emery cloth. Cleaned them off the hey presto, working clutch. just goes to show huh? thanks for all you advice lads. Invaluable!! i do have another issue though, I'm not sure the disc valve is set correctly. it revs to the moon when off the choke. do any of you good people have the set up details for the disc valve and whether I need to be at TDC or so many degrees before?? bloody hard to find details on these Climbers.

spoke to Richard Allen today, he also recommends using a good light gear oil. Got some Putoline today. Martin at SWM Moto thinks I've mixed up the driven steel plates as there's one that's 1.5mm thick whereas the rest are 1mm. He's pretty sure that the clutch basket with the 6 studs in have remained the same size but I'll check them both tomorrow. Thanks for the advice lads.

Hmmm, that'd be a bugger. I'll check tonight. suppose it'd run with one Spring missing if I have to put the original back in? but I'll check numbers and measure them both tonight, thanks for the info fella. its so close to being ready to trial, nearly there!

After finally getting my '93/'94 Climber 280 rebuilt on Monday. The clutch is slipping like crazy. Post build I noticed gear oil weeping from the kick start/gear shaft seal so Martin at SWM Moto sorted my out. after rebuild number 3 the clutch slips terribly. Prior to this it had 10W40 in it. It now has ATF. I gave also replaced the clutch top basket as one of the fingers was missing. Nothing else has changed. any help or comments please, I'm baffled!

Ive got a pair from Richard Allen, like for like. we'll see how I get on with them.

Hey good people of the forum. '93 Climber: stripped out the forks tonight as part of a full rebuild, the left side stanction chrome is very very badly worn. Does anyone know of a reasonably priced company that can re chrome it or will it be cheaper to buy another set of forks....if I can find any? cheers Graeme

Hi Captainvette, Took me some time but I got another bottom end from a guy in Italy. Built it up and the poxy thing still wouldn't run off choke. I relented and bought an ultrasonic cleaner. Stripped the carb, put it through the cleaner a few times, it now runs great. Although weeping gear oil so another strip down is needed.

Photograph everything. Memory is a bitch.

And don't just nip up the flywheel nut thinking it'll be fine, the bugger will work loose and shear the woodruff key. 100N/M or 73 ft/lbs

I've got the same bike. I use standard cheap I 10W40 oil in mine and change it every other trial. Chances are that the clutch basket is stepped, which makes the clutch very notchy and jerky. You can file it down to make it better, but it's only a short term fix.

Ok, been a bit busy of late but back on the job now. I've split the cases to replace the left side (cheers b40rt), I'll throw in a set of main seals too, but what is the recommended torque setting for the flywheel? 100Nm? Also top end torque settings too please if any kind souls could help me out. Thanks everyone.

Ok, been a bit busy of late but back on the job now. I've split the cases to replace the left side (cheers b40rt), I'll throw in a set of main seals too, but what is the recommended torque setting for the flywheel? 100Nm? Also top end torque settings too please if any kind souls could help me out. Thanks everyone.

Ok, continuing from my previous post. Thanks to a top man on this very here TC, I've got myself a left side crankcase (Cheers Ross). My question is about setting the disc valve timing. Where does the valve sit in relation to TDC and which way round does it sit? Never been into a disc valve motor before. Cheers Graeme

That is a lovely looking bike.

Found them on Amazon for £35 that'll do. Although it may not be worth bothering with because so far on the strip down I've discovered; Clutch Spring holder has had a leg snapped off, it's been taken out together with the spring and bolt. When all that went pop it's broken a tooth off of the intermediate gear. Found the tooth stuck to the drain plug! Gear selector shaft is badly worn from not being tight enough. Kick start shaft is the same. Kick start lever has had its shoulder made up from weld. Enthusiasm is waning and I've not got the flywheel off yet. But at least the mains seem ok.

That's the one, all my pullers are for an external flywheels. Where abouts are you?