@dozerash, have you read through the many posts that appear earlier on the swm forum ? All the info is there about clutch springs, adjustments, leavers etc
Have you extended the arm inside the clutch casing ? An all day one finger clutch is possible without using hydraulics.
I have been reading them. A lot of info! Thanks! I have a newer style clutch cover from a Can Am that has the bigger actuator balls. I’m going to try it this winter. I noticed the other day my bike is leaking oil from the Kickstarter/shifter area. It leaked a couple of years ago and I replaced the seal and o ring. I will replace them again when I install new cover.
@feetupfun , I agree, and I have a brembo disc and m/c on another bike and they are no better than a good condition standard setup with modern brake shoes.
I put new shoes and cable, cleaned and lubed everything and they work much better than the Ossa I had but still not great. Any suggestions?
Have you checked which springs are in the clutch ?
When I bought the bike it had a couple of clutch springs removed. It slipped way too much for my weight. I reinstalled all the springs. It’s not super hard to pull in just not a one finger pull. Thought a hydraulic setup would make it one finger.
I know ATK modified the Magura hydraulic kit to fit the ATK 406 Rotax (similar engine as the 350 SWM Jumbo). Not sure if there set up would work on the 240/280 rotary valve engine.
I'm stuck in the 1970s with my welding. Oxy-acetylene and stick. I tell people that the welding technology fits perfectly with the age of the rider and the age of the bike.
I have a good stick welder I haven’t used in a few years, I should use it again. I mostly use my Mig. I have a torch set just need tanks. Thought about getting a tig but too expensive.
Looks great! Are you guys using a Tig welder? I only have a Mig welder and was told the chrome moly frames needed to be tig or bronze welded. Mig welding transfers too much heat.
I’m planning on going through my 1982 TL320 this winter. I’m thinking of making it my semi modern bike. I seen someplace where someone installed a front disk brake. I’ve also seen some hydraulic clutch mods on the SWMs. Electronic ignition and new carburetor. Any other ideas? I have a 1980 TL320 that’s mostly stock (except electronic ignition) that I can use for vintage legal events. The 1982 I would use in modern events.
I also have the electronic ignition from Martin a few weeks ago. I bought the Clubman model, I’m a lower lever rider so I didn’t think I would benefit from the pro model. It works great! Still starts first or second kick, the power woke right up, my timing was off. I’m impressed and happy I bought it! Bike runs consistent now! Easy to install! I am waiting to hear about the lighting coil, but I’m not too worried about it. I’m sure they will come up with something.
On my 1980/81 that I'm rebuilding. I moved the new foot pegs as low and far back as I could, I used my MIG welder. I didn't add any extra metal. I bought these pegs from Martin at MotoSWM. For some reason I'm not allowed to download anymore pictures.
Instead of welding on the chromoly I made some plates from mild steel to relocate the pegs. Didn’t want to go radically back myself but it would be simple to make multiple plates to experiment with different positions. I utilized the stock footpegs for kicker clearance. Oh,and don’t go so low on the peg position that the saddle contacts your leg above the knee when you lean the bike into turns as it will pull your body inside the tire contact patch.
This is a great idea too! Do you notice much of a difference in width?
As I wrote above, sound level is (almost) comparable to stock. If you are in sensitive surroundings, don't go for a larger single outlet pipe or mx silencer.
Regarding welding, I always use TIG for high stress or vibration exposed welds. You can get decent results using MIG, but the heat affected zone is bigger, the bead process is harder to control in detail, so I play it safe (or use my MIG to fix the parts and then do the actual welding with my TIG). Brazing with a gas torch (or TIG) is an alternative (but take some practice), specially on high alloyed steels.
Thanks for the welding tips! I’m just a self taught welder so any advice is great. This does make my decision when I upgrade my welder on what I should get. I’m also going to look into continuing education welding classes.
I agree with b40rt on most issues, specially regarding the footrests. Use CrMo plate of the same thickness as the side plates and TIG the bits in place, pre-warm the plates and keep them warm, making the plates and welds cool down slowly (check for any sign of cracks after every ride during the first couple of weeks).
However, regarding the midbox and rear silencer, a bit more work than b40rt suggest is well worth the effort. Cut them both up longitudinally with a thin disc and start removing whats inside. Repack the midbox with good hi temp insulation and reweld. Then, cut out everything inside the rear silencer and cut off the rear part as shown. Get a bit of perforated pipe or make one up, to fit between the inlet and a new wall in the rear part. Weld the front part longitudinally and do the same with the rear part. Then, weld the new wall in place in the rear part, as shown. Finally, fit the perforated tube into the front part and fill up with insulation before riveting the two parts together, then paint.
I have kept the original twin outlet pipes on this one, but you can also try a bigger single pipe if you like (louder and less back pressure). The silencer shown here is almost as quiet as the original, but is a much better starting point when tuning for better power delivery all through the rev range (porting, ignition timing, carb set up and so on). Of course, you could use any modern mx type silencer instead, but a little visual cheating can be nice, or....?
I didn’t realize the frame was chrome moly, I don’t have a tig welder. I guess I better have the shop weld it.
I agree with b40rt on most issues, specially regarding the footrests. Use CrMo plate of the same thickness as the side plates and TIG the bits in place, pre-warm the plates and keep them warm, making the plates and welds cool down slowly (check for any sign of cracks after every ride during the first couple of weeks).
However, regarding the midbox and rear silencer, a bit more work than b40rt suggest is well worth the effort. Cut them both up longitudinally with a thin disc and start removing whats inside. Repack the midbox with good hi temp insulation and reweld. Then, cut out everything inside the rear silencer and cut off the rear part as shown. Get a bit of perforated pipe or make one up, to fit between the inlet and a new wall in the rear part. Weld the front part longitudinally and do the same with the rear part. Then, weld the new wall in place in the rear part, as shown. Finally, fit the perforated tube into the front part and fill up with insulation before riveting the two parts together, then paint.
I have kept the original twin outlet pipes on this one, but you can also try a bigger single pipe if you like (louder and less back pressure). The silencer shown here is almost as quiet as the original, but is a much better starting point when tuning for better power delivery all through the rev range (porting, ignition timing, carb set up and so on). Of course, you could use any modern mx type silencer instead, but a little visual cheating can be nice, or....?
Thanks for the info and pictures! This is awesome information! I’ll have a few projects this winter!
Svm
in SWM
Posted
How is the single shock mounted to frame and swingarm on the SVM? Does it have a linkage?