trial bike

P.S. You could try adding a little throttle before moving forward for the rebound. Then you can get the throttle steady and the revs right whilst getting ready. One less thing to think about. (you may hear the pros doing this too) Then it is just the clutch and body position you have to concentrate on getting right.

Hi, I am just learning how to get the front over a log or rock from static. I don't know if this is what you mean. There are some good replies here. Here's my tuppence worth. I am putting my front wheel hard up against a rock or log just smaller that the front (or down to a foot tall or so) (nothing scary but you need an obstacle). Having the wheel hard up against the rock helps me keep balance whilst I compose myself and get mentally prepared. I then crouch low and well back, getting ready. (I've seen it loads on-line by the "experts") When I feel ready, I move forward just enough to compress the front a little and on the rebound lean back, a little throttle, a little clutch. (I'm on a 4 stroke) The bike, with front light, rear wheel loaded, lifts the front nicely and propels itself forward nicely. Then jump forwards and up to lighten the rear as you do with the double blips. Only just tried it, never had the nerve before. Very, very pleasing.

My "breakthrough" moment was discovering how to wheelie. I always used to try and "pull" the front up. bending my arms and in reality pulling myself towards the front, weighting it, and pushing the wheel landwards. A tip I read or saw on line was to "push away" from the bars, thus pushing myself away from the front, unweighting it. What a difference. Sky high wheelies just like that. Problem now is... as soon as I get it high, my natural reaction is to bend my arms and lean forward to stop myself falling off the back. Natural self preservation. Cannot break the habit. Still trying though.

Hi, I posted it in the Montesa section. 4RT sump guard query. Got good replies already too.

Oh. Ok. It sounds like I should give the H&D plate another go then. Thanks guys.

It took me a while to discover, but rather than trying to "shift your weight to the other side" which seems the obvious thing to do, push with your legs on the pegs. Keep your weight centred rather than shifting it about. With your legs bent it is easy to push one leg more than the other. Try it standing on the floor! You could practise pushing quickly, strongly, gently, swapping from one leg to the other etc whilst standing on the floor. I find this, with practise, is THE way to correct a tipping bike. Tipping right, push on the left peg. Tipping left, push on the right peg. Sounds easy. The hard part is pushing early enough and with the right amount of pressure. The other thing that this technique will lead to..and is something I am desperate to learn...is steering the bike during wheelies. I lift the front for a prolonged wheelie and inevitably turn left or right. I have never been able to do it. Road bike, trail bike or trials bike. But I think it is all about peg pressure.

Hi, I am relatively new to balancing so am still concentrating on improving and techniques. I can't hop the wheels more than once yet, but I can lower my butt to the mudguard and stand bolt upright numerous times and can also bounce the bike on its suspension whilst maintaining balance, well, a few times anyway. I can also balance for a short while with one hand off the bars. What helped me in the beginning was holding on to the shed wall with one arm whilst I worked out what to do with my feet, what effect they had on the bike and where to put them. I find standing towards the outside edge of the pegs instead of squarely on them helps, it has a greater effect on the bike. Also, whilst supporting yourself on the wall you can get a feel for how tippy the bikes is and how body position and especially your head position affects the balance point. Get used to pushing on the pegs to correct the tipping over of the bike. This is where the balancing act comes from. More so than levering with the bars if you can get the hang of it. I find turning the bars helps if things get to tippy for the feet to deal with. like a catcher almost. But using the feet takes less effort and is kinder to your forearms. Then, to start with, you don't really want your tyres on a slippy surface, you floor looks very smooth. There is more friction and therefore more bar leverage if your tyre is "in the rough". You could try putting the front tyre up against a wall and using that for support. Again, like holding the wall, the tyre against the wall will make balancing easier while you get a feel for body position and how your head weight affects the balance point. I find keeping centred over the bike is a must, keeping back helps, although I do practise balancing leaning forwards and backwards and transitioning form one to the other. (You never know when you'll need to balance for real, uphill or down etc.) I also find bending your knees well, to lower your height, helps tremendously. It lowers the centre of gravity I guess. I find staying relaxed is the most important thing. It very easy when concentrating hard on balancing to tense up, grip the bars far too hard and to lean forwards with your weight on the bars. As soon as realise you are doing this, take in a long steady breath, release slowly and tell yourself, aloud, r e l a x . It helps me to recompose. Stay back with your weight on the pegs, nice loose grips on the bars. Somethings you may or may not have noticed... Balancing with the wheel straight ahead is very hard. Full lock is easier. (Try to to do it on half lock, I find it more satisfying) Balancing with the front wheel higher than the rear is harder than on a level surface. Balancing with the front wheel lower than the back is easier than on a level surface. And finally, from me, as others have said, don't just stop riding and put your feet down, try to balance for a few seconds in all sorts of situations and positions, it all helps your mind to get a grip and will become easier. Every little helps.

Hi all, I have a 2015 4RT. I ride rocks quite a lot and my bike is gaining scars quite quickly in the shock linkage, footapegs and engine case areas. I know the bike needs a stronger larger sump guard but am struggling to find one that fits properly. I purchased one from H&D, a great bit of kit, but the bolt holes did not line up with my frame, so I returned it. (Great service by the way.) On enquiring with my dealer, he stated that the 2015 bike is slightly different from the pre 2014 bikes and that no one produces a sump guard for it yet. I have enquired with Splatshop but they say the part numbers for the CSP guard are the same from 2005 to 2015 and that the sump guards are quite often difficult to fit and using a G clamp can help. I could have forced the H&D plate into position, but didn't want to. I like things to fit properly. Surely forcing these plates to fit will stress the frame or engine. I can't believe that post 2014 bikes are all being ridden on the standard soft baseplate. What do you guys do or buy. Any advice will be gratefully received. Regards, Dave.

Hi all, I've been hopping in and out of Trials Central for a while now and thought it was about time I introduced myself, now that I'm "on the pegs" again. The last time I rode a trials bike was about 33 years ago! (Been riding road bikes and the odd trail bike). I've bought myself a trials bike at long last after desiring one for years. I am lucky enough to live in the Scottish Highlands and am surrounded by rocks, trees and hills. As I walk about I can't help thinking..."there's a section", "I could ride that" etc, etc, Now I can...or at least try to! I have a Montesa 4RT. (I yearned for a Montesa Cota as a youth, but couldn't fund one, and am a four stroke fan, So it had to be eh?) When I first got on the thing I could barely ride it round in a circle smaller than my van is capable of, let alone a full lock turn. And trying to stop it taking off from tick over or stopping with out throwing me over the bars was a bit testing. But I now have the beast tamed and am getting back into the swing of things. I love it. It is SO capable compared to my old TY175, unless I am much better than I was as a youf, which I doubt somehow. How 30 years of technology have changed things. WOW. I guess the fact the bike has got lighter and I have got heavier helps with weight transfer, I was a light weight kid and could never do "the stunts". Plus, we have the internet now, with lots of advice and tips, (wish I had that as a kid). Ah well, thats me. Now... I have a question...