wilsonwash8

My first trialer was a 1973 Tl 125. I loved that little bike and the fact that it was under powered mmade me work even harder on the skills. I picked up another one for my 15 year old son last fall and steal a ride on it now and then.

Try this: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/...nner_for_honda/ I bought one for my TLR and they are a life saver. Only 10 bucks or so. I used to use chisels, etc, but you need to be very careful as the oil pump housing is fragile.

I'd steer clear of that Italjet on Ebay... check the guy's feedback.

I paid 800 dollars US for my project Reflex and ended up investing at leats that much to get it shaped up. I used as many new parts as I could. Did the same thing with my RL 250 a few years back. Lots invested, but I know exactly what I have now. The way I see it is the more I have invested, the less likely I will sell it! I swapped out the original shocks and bars for different sets. The rest is pretty much stock and functional.

Not sure if it's the same motor, but I used a one over Wiseco for and early 1980's XR 200. The compression ratio was a bit higher, but a thicker base gasket cured that. Go to the Wiseco page and scroll down until you get to the XR 200 entry. The print is small and there is a ton of info, so it is easy to miss. The part # I used for a 4156m06600. Cost for piston, rings, pin, and clips was about 125 dollars. Good luck. Oh, my TLR runs fine with this piston!

Mine has the stock bolt on kick starter stopper. You still have the problem of the kicker hitting something at the bottom of the stroke, but it spaers the brake pedal from damage. You might try the old technique I use with my XT 500. Slowly kick the bike until you reach TDC, then gently push a bit more. You'll feel the piston begin to travel on the down stroke. From there it's pretty easy. Even with a 200cc bike I find kicking through the compression stroke difficult. That's what old age does to ya......

It lives! Putted around the yard enough to know that the bars were too low for me. Had some old Inter Am solid bars in the shed that makes the back feel better. The bike runs great. I took it out a bit yesterday in the rain and had a good time. Looks like I'll need to attend to the steering head bearings as using the front brake produced a tiny bit of movement in the triple trees and a clink sound. The bike is street plated, but I doubt I'll be doing very much sit down riding on it - not terribly comfortable. Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to enter it in a twin shock class after removing the non essentials. I like the power and feel of the bike. Here's a list of what I had to do to this bike : Tires Piston/Bore. Shift shaft - original had the end broken off. No worry, the previous owner drilled a hole in what was left and was happy with that... Kick starter-original guy used a TL 125 unit that would have bent the brake pedal each time you kicked. Brake pedal- original had end broken off, owner used a big bolt for the toe part. Rear spokes - the rear wheel was missing 6 spokes, all inside and confined to about on fourth of the wheel. Needless to say it wobbled big time. Did my best truing the wheel, seems ok. Rear axle nut- original was one of those prototype round units you've read so much about. Took the vice grips of death and two men and a boy to loosen it. Shifter- guess he didn't like the stocker, so he bent it into what he wanted. I stopped counting at 4 bends... Airbox - oh yes, the great engineering feat- stock air filter was long gone. Did you know that you could take a piece of plastic pipe, drill some holes in it, and jam it into the carb throat? Yeah, you can. Just find some old over sized piece of foam and wrap it around the pipe and secure it with a rubber band. Doesn't matter if it is 12 sizes to big. Oh, did you know that the other end of the pipe could be left open without worrying about covering it with foam? Sure can. See first entry above.... I found the original items. Hard to find that retaining clip. Cam chain was shot, so were the guides. Sprockets were fine. Went ahead and used new valves and seals in the head. The stock shocks were ok, but I went ahead and used some slightly longer Arnaco's that I found NOS for under 60 bucks. They look good and work fine. Seeing as how the battery was long gone, I used a battery eliminator. Lights work better at low RPM's. Clutch plates were pretty slick.... new ones installed. The previous owner told me the reason he was selling it was because he was having trouble keeping up with his pals XR 650's..... I used a front brake arm off off a 79 CR 250 Honda on the rear for more leverage. Looks trick and works. New front brakes. Rear to follow. I ureplaced the grips and levers with stock items and black Scott Grips. Still need to pick up a new clutch cable. I found an extra tank and side plates that I plan to tinker with this winter. I really like the looks of the TLR's overseas. We'll see. All in all, a ton of work and a lot of money, but at least I know what I have now. I'll see about getting a pic soon. Thanks to all that have helped. Thanks to Brian R. in Tennessee for the thicker base gasket. (The Wiseco was a 10.5 to 1, stock 9.5 to 1. ) Coming soon: The story about my trip to Motorcycle Hell.... yes, it does exist! Right across the street from my sister.........

Thanks very much!

Hello all, Can anyone tell me the head/cylinder torque specs for the 1987 TLR 200 Reflex? Looks like I'll be reassembling the 200 this evening! Thanks, Brian

I had the same problem with my Model 49. I bought new plates from Barnnett, replaced the inner clutch hub from a later model, and she worked fine. The original inner hub had the retaining pins that were a real bear, so I switched to one that had the threads. Might even be something as simple as your oil. What type are you using?

Thanks! What do I owe you? Glad to send some $$ right away, or I have a few spares from various bikes - RL 250, TY 250... anything you need?

I'm right up I 65 from you in Bloomington, Ind. and I've been know to pester Bob Ginder thru B&J for parts and at the AHRMA trials for help! I have also been trying to find an adjustable needle for the bike. Someone suggested an older SL/XL 125 needle would work. How does the washer work? I'm assuming that it just works as a spacer to raise it? I have a freind who is is a machinst. I wonder if the needle could be modified to accept a clip.

I went ahead and ordered the Wiseco. Should arrive in a day or two. I have a stock piston laying about, so I'll give it a look see right away and let y'all know if it's a match. Worse case is I have a 30 day trial to send it back if it's a no-go. Best case is I lose the smoking and piston slap and know that there are pistons available!

I did some research and hit paydirt, or so it seems: I found this comparison and further along in the article it mentions that both the TLR and XR use a flat dome piston. I think I'm going to take a gambe and get one in one over size. CB100N XL125S XL185S XR185A$ XR200 TLR200R CRF230F# Bore 50.5 56.5 63 63 65.5 65.5 65.5 Stroke 49.6 49.5 57.8 57.8 57.8 57.8 66.2 Capacity 99.35 124.11 180.18 180.18 194.76 194.76 223.06 Wrist Pin, mm 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 CR 9 9.4 9.2 10 10 9 9 Power, bhp/rpm 9.7 9500 14.3 8000 18 9000 19 9000 11.8 6500 Torque, lb-ft 7.09 8000 10.34 6500 11.49 7500 11.5l 7500 11.6 4000 Carb Diameter 22 22 22 24 26 22 28

hEY bRIAN, pLAYING "WHAT IF": iF THE BOOST IN COMPRESSION WAS NOT ADVISABLE FOR THE TLR APPLICATION, WHAT WOULD HAPPEN WITH MAYBE AND ADDITIONAL HEAD GASET OR EVEN A BASE GASKET? WOULD THAT BE ENOUGH TO LOWER THE COMPRESSION? sHOULDN'T AFFECT THE CAM CHAIN TOO MUCH. wHAT OTHER PROBLEMS WOULD i ENCOUNTER? TIMING? UNSURE AS ALWAYS! I'LL LOOK INTO THE ATC, THOUGH.