71zman

I think there were many 669NHO's in the day. This picture shows the 669NHO plate on a M10V2. I brought this to the SM Museum last year and asked Sammy about it. He laughed and said they routinely grabbed plates off of other bikes and used them.

Really, I did not know that...where is the real one?

Yes, the V1 has bolt holes in the side of the frame, the V2 has a stud on the top of the frame. The only other noticeable difference is the seat. The front bolt hold down on the V1 goes through the vinyl seat cover, the V2 it is on a bracket under seat. As far as mechanical goes, they are very similar... both use the IRZ carb, both have the radial head, both use 35mm Betor forks. The rear springs are hard to figure out. 660NHO in the Sammy Miller museum has Betor shocks although many older pictures (and the parts book) call out rear Girling shocks. The most important thing to look for is the numbers match - frame number is stamped on the steering head, the engine number on the engine case.

The gas tank is the most obvious difference. The M10 V1 has a round tank with two hold down bolts on the front side of the tank, the M10 V2 has a more flat tank with a single hold down bolt on the top near the gas filler.👍

Try Matt at Speed and Sport - I just bought a set of the smaller ones a few months ago - best to call him and ask (In California USA) https://www.speedandsport.com/

I use Hugh's website - technical page for paint codes. Here is a link. http://www.bultacoclassic.com/techtips.html

Matt at Speed and Sport in the US has replacements in stock - I believe he uses a Japanese equivalent. I have them on my M49, M85, M100 and M103 = no problems. Much better than the original Joresa, https://www.speedandsport.com/

Try adjusting the snail cams until the tire moves away from the swing arm. On my M49 I discovered when my rear fender was off that the tire was not centered to the middle of the frame when the snail cams were adjusted equally (mine was rubbing the exhaust). I set the cam on the chain size to the 8 mark and the speedo on the 4 mark. The trick was removing the rear fender (and seat / tank) so you have a point of reference for the alignment.

Maybe this is it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bultaco-Rear-Brake-Pedal-Trials-Twinshock-Motocross/382466467422?hash=item590cc7265e:g:dvYAAOSwNFFa~ueR

Good eye on the differences - so maybe just fraternal twins (haha)....... The M49 bottom frame tubes were in good shape and only required new paint when I restored the bike. But because riding in our area is primarily desert with lots of rock steps - bash plates are needed. I found a NOS bash plate on ebay that is made from heavy PVC material that does a good job protecting both the tubes and the cases from damage.

That is a great event! They have a "Cacklefest" which is when they line up all the old nitrous burning dragsters from the 60's and fire them all up at the same time - the ground shakes like a earthquake (bring your ear plugs!).... really cool....

I love this picture - a M150 next to my M49 Kit Campeon at a local trials event in Southern California USA today

Great - thanks for the input!

I recently converted my M49 to an electronic ignition using the Electrex product - works great out of the box! In the stock configuration, the manual specifies a spark plug gap of 0.35 to 0.45 mm. Wondering if with the newer electronic ignition, should I be using a larger spark plug gap like 0.60mm to possibly get a fatter spark??

Connect the white wire lug back to the coil bolt and connect the green wire to it. Try it and see if you have a spark. If no spark - it looks like the red wire is probably connected to the kill switch (seems to be hooked to the black wire from the engine to the coil) - unhook the red wire leaving the black wires connected and try it again - I once had the kill switch malfunction that gave me the same problem. If these don't work, next would be as pointed out above, plug, points, coil. bret