Thanks for all the replies. So I ended up ordering a RK standard chain (I've been pretty happy with RK chains before and it was cheap < US$30 on Amazon Prime) and some good lubricants. I am in Northern California so 8 months of the year we don't know what rain is, and the rest of the time it's too wet to ride...
Just found that my chain has some stiff links and is showing some signs of rust. So time for a replacement. What do people use / recommend?
I'd like to go o-ring (or x-ring...) but I am concerned that the o-ring type chains are wider than the regular chains and will cause problem with the chain guide.
"Goudarges" as in Gourdargues? If that's the same, I grew up pretty damn close to there, "fell" quite a few times in the canals, swam in the Casecasde du Sautadet every summer, terrorized the whole area on my IT175... Fun memories! How's the trials riding there?
I've the basic full lock turn technique on hard grippy surface down, but on a slippery surface like hard pack dirt covered with loose dirt I keep getting into trouble with the front wheel pushing, sliding on the dirt, enlarging the turn.
So I am wondering what's the best technique:
keep the bike as straight as possible and lean it in the turn as far as possible? Or anywhere in between.
Weight inside / outside peg? Inside / outside bar end?
With Jim Snell no longer acting as the U.S. parts distributor, does Gas Gas have a new U.S. parts distributor?
As much as I like to support my local dealers (well there really aren't any around where I am, closest is 2+ hours drive away) I have found trials parts availability in the US to be spotty, parts are very expensive and extra shipping charges usually beyond reasonable ($15 to ship a $2 part... really!!!!). So I have been ordering trials parts from Dherbey Moto. They are the largest trials dealer in France (they sell 400 new bikes and 400 used bikes per year) and have tons of parts in stock (even had stuff for my old Scorpa SY250F!). Prices are excellent (especially for international orders you don't have to pay the VAT - 20%!), much cheaper than any US based dealer and shipping is very reasonable (especially if you order a bunch of stuff) and reasonably fast (they ship same day and it usually arrives to my door step 1 week). Their online shipping estimator for international order is not accurate, so send them an email with the list of what you want to order and they'll send you a quote, then follow up with them once you place your order to make sure they apply the right shipping price.
It might not be worth if you need only a brake lever replacement (even tho...), but if you need a set of plastics, clutch discs, shift lever, air filter, etc... definitively a good deal.
100% not a wives tales! Hot enough that they give a good sizzle and steam when douched with water, but not too hot that you blue the disc. Dragging the brake for about 30-60 secs is usually about right
Dont ask me how or why it works, but it does
Well, indeed it worked... for about 1/2 hour before the brakes went back to their poor selves!
Rear brake is the worse, squealing that a pig been slaughtered (don't ask me how I know... but I do!), then pedal hitting the stop with little to no braking power. I bled them, again and again with no luck. I did take apart the caliper and reassembled everything making sure that the piston operated smoothly. No help.
Next thing is to rebuilt the caliper and probably the master cylinder to see if that cures the problem.
Still... What pads do you guys recommend (part numbers would be great so that I can look for a source online)?
I have just purchased the same bike as you and am looking for a picture of how wires are routed . Do you mind hleping me this by removing your tank and taking a pic of wiring ? It would be greatly appreciated.
I really wished I could help you but... every time I take the tank off it's an endless source of frustration to put it back in because of that wiring mess. I even ripped out (literally) the little side plastic covers one day when I tried to get everything to fit. To make matter worse, the throttle cable splitter fits in the same space and if it's wrong, it will bind and the bike will surge when the handlebar is turned.
And today the bike is for sale, so as much as I would like to help, I am not going anywhere near that mess!
Good luck on that one and sorry I could not be much help.
Hi guys, wanted to revive this topic because my pads are really crapped out (wail like a pig been led to slaughter when cold / wet, and weak at best when dry / warm). I bled the brakes several time so I assume the weak brakes aren't coming from air in the brakes.
I've been looking around but I haven't been able to find the reference number for the Galfer red pads for the TXT Pro (2013 model). Does anyone have these handy?
Parts bin raiders ,I did not know they had those kind of ECO models I thought they would have been more year specific; not just getting rid of a load of spare parts they could not shift spanning so many years, ie taking parts of a 2008 and mixing them with a 2010 in the year 2013.Still if you have to have a clean out.....
Yeah, similar to the Contact model today. But this particular 2013 ECO is cheap at 1500 Euros! Which would work wonders for what I want to do with it.
Ok, doing more research it might actually be a TXT Pro Eco model. They are not listed on the Gas Gas web site, so I am not sure what year they were available, but I've been able to find used listing for 2011, 2012, 2013's and even 2014.
From what I've seen it looks like a mismatch of a 2010 frame, Olle suspension, rear rim without the mid-rib (tubeless???) and Pirelli tires.
I am looking at this 280 TXT Pro online and it's advertised as a 2013 which clearly it is not (old style muffler and rear wheel rim). To it has to be a 2010 (the 2011 had the new style muffler and the graphics seems to match the ones on the one in the photos in the "Previous model" section of the Gas Gas web site).
But... the fork has silver tubes and bottoms, which does not match the 2010 specs and photos I have seen.
The bike is in Europe (France) if that matters (I am looking for a bike over there to keep around our family home). Will contact the owner soon, but I wanted to see if anyone had any insights on it before.
Took an hour off from work before it got too dark and when putting around the back yards in my neighborhood. We had a fair amount of rain recently so it was all loamy dirt, slick logs and mossy rocks. Good fun for 90 minutes tho.
A big thanks to all the people who were patient enough to read and answer to all my posts and to all the people who keep posting invaluable information on this board.
I bought a used 2013 TXT Pro a few weeks ago from a fellow down in Southern California (I am located in Norther CA). The bike had clearly seen some action, with some dings on the frame, fork tube, fork lowers, etc. but all in all the price was fair (it had a "Green Sticker" which is golden here as it allows you to ride year round).
After close inspection I found that one of the lower frame tabs was cracked, so I decided to take the bike apart, get the tab welded and while I was at it, get the dings filled (welding) and get the frame, swing arm and forks lowers powder coated.
In the process of taking the bike apart, I found that ALL the bearing in the rear suspension were shot (pressure washing I guess since this bike was a dry weather bike), the bash plate was pretty flattened out, the fork bushing where scratched, the water pump drain bolt was smashed, and a few other minor problems. So I order a bunch of spare parts (including some suspension springs to match my weight, bunch of Jitsie guards, new bask plate, etc...) while the frame was being attended by my powder coater.
Once I got all the parts, it took me a few days to put it all back together, and once done, I was surprised to see that it started second kick (I didn't open the engine tho, still plenty of compression).
Went out for a ride today and it's miles better than my Scorpa four stroke!!! I need to refine the carb settings, new rear brake pads, but otherwise... I think I am going to enjoy it.
Here are a few photos.
Now... I need to take a riding class to improve my riding ;-) Time to call Adrian.
I am guessing that the bikes that had an engine breather tube going into the air box were 4 stroke bikes. On this bike this is a gearbox breather and only needs to be vented to the atmosphere. I like to cut the ends of these breather hoses on the bias.
Great! I guess unless the bike is upside down for and extended amount of time nothing should leak out of there.
Quick question (2013 TXT Pro): where is the engine breather tube suppose to go? On some other bikes I've had it's routed back in the airbox... Not sure what people do on the Gas Gas.
Almost done rebuilding my 2013 250 TXT Pro and while putting the rear caliper on the swing arm I realized that the rear pads could use some freshening up. Haven't had a look at the front ones yet, but might as well get some spares for them now even if they are still good.
So... What's the forum wisdom on which pads to get (brand / model number Front / Rear)? I ride in California, so think dry and dusty and very little water.
Currently the front brakes are a little "grabby" so if I could fix that at the same time that would be great.
As always, many thanks in advance for all the help.
I got my frame and swing arm back from the powder coating shop and all the bushing and bearing replacement for the suspension linkage and yesterday I spent the evening trying to put everything back together.
When I slid the swing arm into the frame I get a gap on each side of the swing arm
It is more pronounced on the drive side.
In the Gas Gas frame design the swing arm axle determines the frame width, and everything is fine with the axle (bushing is in on the drive side, axle is tight against the bushing and on the clutch side the axle goes all the way and makes contact with the frame).
So... is this normal? Or am I missing some "spacers" that go between the frame and the swing arm? (I didn't take photos before disassembly but I don't have any spare spacers in my pile of parts to reassemble either...).
A small right angled pick (or two) will just lift it out. Maybe a little at a time. Just don`t scratch the wall.
Great, that I can do (I can even make a tool for that).
Couple of more questions:
Do I need a seal driver to put the bushing and seal back in? I can make one out of schedule 40 1.5" PVC pipe (ID is actually 1.610"= 40.mm) so no big deal.
Any idea what's the coating on the bushings? Looks like there is the same stuff on the swing arm bushings.
Don`t worry about it till you have new bushings in your hand. They will just slide up out of the seal cup. You can see the seam in the picture.
So I can put the fork back together as is?
To pull the bushing out, do you need some type of "puller" that grabs them from the bottom? How tight of a fit are they? (don't have the fork lowers with me, they are at the shop getting powder coated).
Chain recommendation - std or o/x-ring?
in Gas Gas
Posted
Yeah... I have sprockets on order... my question was really about the type of chain, but thanks for the reminder.