drca

Great! Thanks! I can keep going with the rest of the rebuilt (on to the front end now!)

I got my frame and swing arm back from the powder coating shop and all the bushing and bearing replacement for the suspension linkage and yesterday I spent the evening trying to put everything back together. When I slid the swing arm into the frame I get a gap on each side of the swing arm It is more pronounced on the drive side. In the Gas Gas frame design the swing arm axle determines the frame width, and everything is fine with the axle (bushing is in on the drive side, axle is tight against the bushing and on the clutch side the axle goes all the way and makes contact with the frame). So... is this normal? Or am I missing some "spacers" that go between the frame and the swing arm? (I didn't take photos before disassembly but I don't have any spare spacers in my pile of parts to reassemble either...). Thanks. DC

Great, that I can do (I can even make a tool for that). Couple of more questions: Do I need a seal driver to put the bushing and seal back in? I can make one out of schedule 40 1.5" PVC pipe (ID is actually 1.610"= 40.mm) so no big deal. Any idea what's the coating on the bushings? Looks like there is the same stuff on the swing arm bushings.DC

So I can put the fork back together as is? To pull the bushing out, do you need some type of "puller" that grabs them from the bottom? How tight of a fit are they? (don't have the fork lowers with me, they are at the shop getting powder coated). Thanks.

I took my Marzocchi fork apart yesterday (2013 GG TXT Pro) for service as well as to gt the lower powder coated. When I looked at the bushings it looks like there is some type of thin film (teflon?) coating the friction side of the bushings. Is this normal? The film on the bushing inside the lowers are scratched? (see photos below) Is that a problem? If I want to change them, what's the procedure and what tools to I need? Thanks, DC

Found it (well, close enough!). One question tho: does the two ignition map work on these? Txs

It works... And believe me it's actually much better looking than my Scorpa (which is so bad that I can barely put the gas tank back on if I touch any of the electrical!). But I'd still like to understand what goes where (for example there is a weird loop on the connector to the ECU...) and find where to plug in some lights. So best is to contact Jim? DC

I took my TXT Pro apart to get the broken frame tab welded, and I'd like to see if I can clean up the spaghetti mess that's the current wiring. I searched around and couldn't find a wiring diagram for the bike. Does anyone have one or can point me to where I can find something useful? Thanks. DC

Does anyone knows what grade of Aluminum Gas Gas uses in their bash guards? 7075?

Hi Jim: That's what I suspect (and hope ) is happening. Unfortunately I won't be able to confirm for a couple of weeks (on my way to Bolivia right now!). I had the big TWANG happen when I took the bash plate off my Scorpa... Took me a while to figure out what was going on. A few well placed hits with a sledgehammer and some wood blocks (sorry no hydraulic press in my modest garage) was all it took to reshape it and it went back in with no problems. What I don't understand tho is why the designers of these bikes (at least my old Sherco, Scorpa and Gas Gas) continue to put the bolts that hold the back of the bash plate vertical, head facing down. After a few encounters with some nasty rocks, the heads are ground to nothing and the bolts are impossible to take out. Happy trails. DC

Ah, thanks. Would someone be kind enough to post a photo of what it is supposed to look like. I understand the crack (circle on my photo), but I don't understand the gap around the bolt head (arrow on my photo). From the look of it the tab would have neatly sheared just around the bolt head... DC

Thanks for the answer. I'll pull the bash plate and proceed to make a full inspection of the cases. You wrote "this is not the problem", do you mean that this is normal and just to check for possible cracked cases, or that this is the least of my problems if I have cracked cases? Happy trails. DC

Thanks for the info. I finally rode the bike for 1 1/2 today and it's pretty nice, will need some time get used to tho compared to the Scorpa. The clutch rattle is indeed unnerving, calms down with the clutch pulled out tho, but still happens in first gear, clutch in just idling along with no throttle. I guess I'll have to get used to it (but man sounds like a tractor at time!). I'll try the black nail polish with some very fine sand paper will work on the fork. I am sure my daughter has a bottle in her stock ;-) Carb definitively needs some cleaning. Bike is a b***h to start when hot, idle is irregular... Probably will need some jetting adjustments too. Suspension definitively soft for me... Looking into stiffer springs! Looks like Jitsie makes some stiffer for the front (but they are too short so requires a custom made spacer). Not sure about the rear tho. Anyone can recommend a suspension shop that deals with trials bike I can talk to? Brakes are pretty jerky (not very progressive). Kickstarter seems to have a very small range where it grabs the gear with some case where there are even misses. Doesn't look good, so I'll need to take the kickstart mechanism apart and look for broken teeth :-( I tried to take the clutch case off today but gave up as the kickstarter itself didn't want to come off the shaft. Need to either look for a hot tip on how to pull it out or find a "puller". Thanks to all for all the help. DC

Going through the 2013 TXT Pro i recently acquired and I found this looking around: This is the motor mount tab on the left side under the motor, in the back. I can see what looks like a "crack" (blue circle) and there is a gap between the bolt head and the tab. Is this normal? Thanks. DC

After a few months of putting around on my Scorpa SY250F I decided to get more serious about trials and I recently purchased a used 2013 TXT Pro (250cc). The bike has been used, doesn't looks like it's been abused tho, and will need some tuning to get in tip top shape. So I have a few questions: Carb, jetting The bike has been sitting for a few months unused and it clearly will need a car cleanup. The DelOrto's aren't that complicated to clean on these bikes, so I plan to order a set of seals, take the carb apart and clean it up thoroughly. When I test rode the bike, it wasn't as snappy as I expected tho and it could come from the carb being gunky, from the jetting being off or many other things... I don't know what the jetting currently is on the bike and I was wondering if anyone has recommendations for a base to start from: altitude around 500 m (1500') high, dry climate. Reeds Do the reeds wear out on these bikes? Is it worth installing new reeds? What's recommended? Fork dings There are a couple of dings in the fork upper tubes. I read on the forum various recommendations ranging from "just sand them out and go with it" to "fill in with epoxy / super glue, sand out and you're good". What's the latest wisdom on that? Suspension springs I am on the heavy side (230 Lbs / 100 kg in my bday suit) so I need stiffer springs. I know that suspensions setup is a very personal affair and even a good rider will do great things on a very soft bike, but I get frustrated when I drag the bash plate just standing still over a small log... On my enduro bikes I do the static / dynamic sag thing to determine correct spring rate, but I am not sure first that this is the same in trials and more importantly that there will be enough different springs (with different spring rates) available anyways. So, what do people recommend in term of spring rate for my conditions (novice, 230 Lbs / 100 Kg, not doing big drops or obstacles). Cluch rattle As much as I read and learn about the "Gas Gas clutch rattle" it is unnerving how much rackets it makes on that bike (don't know about others tho). It's especially bad when the clutch is out in neutral... Gearbox oil on that bike isn't ATF, so I plan to replace it with some ATF (what grade is recommended?) see if that helps. I am probably going to take the clutch apart and measure the stack thickness to see if it's within specs. What's the min stack thickness? Do you measure with everything dry or dripping oil? Side stand The bike cam without a side stand. Any good source to get a whole assembly (including the mounting bracket, springs, etc...)? I am sure I'll have plenty more questions when I start riding / working on the bike... Thanks in advance. DC

It's a California thing... I just need a 2002 frame (with a 2002 VIN number) as newer trials bikes can't be ridden here on some public land half of the year (pollution control). The rest I can sell for parts.

Thanks! I guess it depends on the price. I am looking for a donor 2002 bike bike so that might be it. Cheers.

Doing more research looks like there was a 2002 TXT Pro 200cc and that might be one then: http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/bikes-sale-wanted/82650-gas-gas-txt-pro-200-2002-trials-bike.html

I've been looking at a bike for sale that has no title or MSO, and his current owner got it from a friend who got it who knows where... The owner thinks it's a 2001 200 TXT. Which is what the VIN would support: VTRGG 1602 1201 **** According to this thread and this VIN decoder this does identify it as a European / Spanish / Gas Gas / 160cc / from 2001. Now... when looking at the picture, it's clearly a TXT Pro frame and engine: So I am trying to figure out what's going on? And what model it could be and what model year this really is. The frame and engine are clearly TXT Pro (2002 and later) which would rule out the 2001 model year. According to the Gas Gas web site "Previous models"section there was no 200cc was available in 02, and 03. Which would make this bike an 04 or later. Looks like the 05 and later had a different lower triple clamp (solid with no slot as in the previous models) and a far bar which would rule out the 2005 and later. Body plastic: besides the yellow color... looks like some pieces covering the muffler) and possible on the opposite side too. Now... the pipe looks like a 2001 pipe... Any help / suggestions / idea welcome. Cheers. I looked at the Gas Gas web site on their previous models and the 200cc was not available in 02, and 03.

Dherbey Moto has tubes (new) for €233 Euros... so that might be the way to go if the damage it too bad. Altho a new fork is only (!) €670... So it might be better just to get a new fork (considering that the "damaged" fork will probably need new seals, an oil change and possibly bushings) and sell the old one for parts!!! Decisions... decisions!

Hi: A buddy is looking at buying a 2013 Gas Gas and he told me that the fork has a pretty nasty ding on it. Here is a crop of the photo he sent me. To me it looks really bad possible going thru the tube thickness. Anyways, where can I find a replacement tube (new or used) and how much do they cost? How much is a replacement fork (new or used)? Will another fork (like a Formula Tech) fit on that bike without too much trouble? Finally, my buddy is on the heavy side (230 Lbs / 104 kg / 16.5 stones) so he's wondering if there are stiffer springs for this fork (and bike) and what stiffness would he need (he's a novice). Thanks for the help.

Hi: Newbie here looking to replace my Scorpa by a Gas Gas and I am looking at the TXT Pro 2002. Why this years? Because I live in California, land of the fruits and nuts and thanks to some pretty aggressive environmentalists there are no post 2002 trials bike that can be legally ridden year round on public land... I can get into more of the details, but basically any off road bike newer than 2002 bike will be issued a "red sticker" which will make it illegal to ride on public land during the 6 to 7 months around summer. There are ways around that, some legal, some not as much... but that's another discussion altogether. So... I am in the market for a 2002 bike that will be ride-able year round but that I can upgrade to more recent bike specs (there are no rules against upgrading the suspensions. Changing the motor is probably more of a grey area but very doable). And since I am a trials newbie, I really don't need (yet!) the latest factory edition bike... My plan is to buy a 2002 TXT Pro in good shape and slowly update the components to get me a reasonably performing and reliable bike. So I have a few questions: First one is from looking at the Gas Gas TXT Pro lineup from 2002 on, it looks like the design has been pretty stable until 2008. Does anyone know what are the biggest changes during that time frame and which ones are worth considering upgrading to? Are all the body parts the same? Suspensions? 250's are very hard to find, the most common model (at least in the US) seems to be the 280. I am concerned that it might be a little too much for a beginner... What's the wisdom on that? Can the motor be detuned? Since the 250 and 280 engines have the same stroke, I could always put a 250 cylinder and piston... Suspension wise - I am on the heavier side (230 Lbs with no gear), so clearly I'll need at the minimum stiffer springs. Are these available for the stock components? Is an upgrade to more modern suspension components worth it (and how much would it cost)? Assuming that on a bike that age the suspensions will need to be rebuilt soon, that might be worth it. The 2002 Pro model was a first year design and I've read that the biggest issue was the clutch. Some bikes got upgraded to a newer clutch, how can I check that? How much does the upgrade cost (in parts, I can do the labor myself). I also read that there might be some possible issues with the ignition and that parts for the original ignition where hard if not impossible to find. How common of a problem this is? Parts availability - what's the availability of parts for these bikes? One of the reason to get rid of my Scorpa is that getting parts is more and more difficult (I order them from Dherby Moto in France - probably the biggest trials bikes dealer in the country - and there are parts they can't get anymore). Anyone knows someone willing to let go of a 2002 TXT Pro? Or must a frame (with MSO or Title). Anything else I should be thinking about? Thanks. DC

Thanks for the advice, will start to work on it today. Happy trails.

Hi: Newbie here, and today I started to practices tight turns on a downhill slope. The drill is going down a slope (20 to 30% I'd say) then initiate a as tight as possible turn to go back up hill. My tendency is to lean the bike "in" the turn (which is toward the uphill side) and that just causes the front wheel to wash out (it's in pretty loose dirt). So I was wondering what's the right approach in that case? Try to keep the bike vertical and weigh the outside peg? I tried and that makes the balancing really difficult. Thanks. DC

Hi: I am looking at replacing my Scorpa SY250F and I found a very nice looking 2008 Beta Rev 4T. I did some research on the bike and it looks like a pretty solid bike save a couple of easy fix items (kickstarter and hot start). Price wise, I was wondering what is the going price on these. The bike looks like really low hours, and probably a 8 or 9 out of 10 cosmetically. Any guidance? Oh yeah, that in the USA (!). Thanks.