drca

Yeah... Got myself a new bash plate! Then I'll beat the old one into submission as a spare ;-) I have all new rubbers too.

Well, it's a trials steel frame without a lower cradle so it really isn't the stiffest thing around especially at the front (you can bend the thing by hand if you are not careful!). So my welder just makes sure that the crack in the mount is closed (tap it into place with a hammer) and weld it back together. Then the mounting sequence is: drop the engine in the frame, put the swingarm spindle in, put the lower rear engine bolt in, then the front engine mount bolt then the top bracket and slowly tightened everything in the same order a little bit at a time. The challenge will be the bash plate. If it's new (i.e. unmolested) it should drop pretty easy. If it's been bashed (flatened) , then mounting it can range from being a challenge to impossible. In the end my frame could be twisted a bit, but since trials is about riding on crappy terrain with under inflated tires... it doesn't make much difference to me :-) Hope this helps.

Thanks! The kickstart side seems pretty straightforward. One the sprocket side, that looks a little more complicated... If I get it right, on the sprocket shaft there is (starting from the inside of the engine): A 25 x 2.0 o-ring - ME25632025 (#25 on the 1st exploded view below) a 25 x 1.5 o-ring - MT280212025 (#29 on the 1st exploded view below) A bushing - MT280236046 (#24 on the 1st exploded view below). An oil lip seal - ME25636024 (#37 on second exploded view) And to get to all of this, it means removing the left side engine case, which requires removing the ignition cover and the ignition... Anything else? So now that I have the engine out of the frame, that might be a good time to do this service I guess!

PMed you

One of the rear engine mount on my 2013 Gas Gas TXT broke, so the frame is off to the welder to get fixed (bash plate flattened from too much bashing, which spreads out the frame, which in turn puts pressure no the engine mounts and I'd rather have the engine mount break than the engine cases crack!) Now... I could bash on things less, but then I'd have to become a better rider first! So it's a good opportunity to finally do winter maintenance on the bike (which I keep pushing off because of the just incredible weather we've been having here in California). I have a long list of things to do and it includes changing the seals around the kick starter shaft and gear shaft, both of which are seeping oil. Can I do that without taking the engine apart? Thanks.

Yeah, altho work isn't as much the problem as the $'s. I need to take the engine out because I have a cracked engine mount at the back (and it's cheaper than buying a new bike) so once the engine is out, changing the jug / piston isn't that big of a job (especially on a 2 stroke!).

I have a buddy selling a brand new 280 cylinder + piston. I am thinking about getting it to upgrade my 250 (2013 TXT Pro). My question is: are the heads the same or do I need to get a new head to? Thanks.

Hi: I sent the crank of my Fantic 300 to be rebuilt to my local shop and the guy said that he can't take it apart. I am not sure of all the details but he says that it's not because there is something wrong with the crank but because he doesn't have a jig that has the right size / shape to accommodate that specific crank (the plate that goes between the two halves to push against). So... Anyone has has a Fantic crank rebuilt in the US and could recommend a shop that could do mine? Thanks.

From what I got from the Gas Gas distributor in the USA, there will be two electric bikes coming out in 2018 - one without a clutch / gearbox (à la Electric Motion) in May (in the USA, maybe earlier in Europe) and one with the clutch and gearbox (similar to the one that Marc Colomer rode in Lourde last year) in June / July. http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/news/780-the-new-gas-gas-electric-trial-bike-to-enjoy.html

Here is what the fork brace looks like compared to a new one... I measured the fork slider tubes for straightness by clamping down the lower fork, putting a micrometer dial on the slider and rotating the slider and it looks like the right side is bent 0.015" (0.4 mm) at the top and the left side 0.005" (0.1 mm). I just put everything together so that when the fork is compress the bend won't pinch the fork and we'll see how it goes.

Trying to clear a couple of small logs (8" / 20cm diam) with a distance apart about the bike wheelbase. 1st gear, lift the front wheel a few inches to bump it on the first log, a little bit of clutch and throttle to try to land the front wheel on top of the next log... Got squirely, landed short with the bars at a slight angle, handlebars yanked to the left, big "clang"... And it's not like I was trying to land a 2 meters drop, it was below walking speed, wheel about 50cm off the ground. Oh well! Hope the fork tubes aren't bent! Back to the garage to take everything apart and check it.

It ran before with the DellOrto and is back to running ok right now. Every winter I do a refresh of my bike (cheaper than getting a new one) so I'll just put a new set of gaskets and a new float needle valve this winter when do the refresh and it'll be good (I am getting a new bike next summer so...). The Keihin was just that a few months ago I tried a Raga replica (same year as mine ( think) and it was much crisper at the bottom end than mine. I am not sure if it was just better tuned, or the higher compression head or Keihin carb. And since I have this spare PWK sitting on my bench that I got for really cheap for another project... DC

I've been having some carburation problems recently: rough running engine, inconsistent idle, stalling and hard to restart, running very rich on restart, running only on choke.... you name it... It happened pretty suddently, so I cleaned the carb from top to bottom a couple of times (first time didn't help), checked the floats to make sure they didn't leak, checked for air leaks, put in new reeds, new air filter and it helped. Part of my winter bike maintenance I plan to rebuild the carb with a new set of gaskets and changing the gas needle (or float valve...) is probably not a bad idea. I was planning to do an upgrade to a Keihin PWK (I have a spare from another project)... so maybe that'll make it on the list for this winter. I'll email Chris at SplatShop tomorrow and ask him to set a needle aside for me and put it in my next shipment. DC

Thanks. I'll check it out again, but when I looked last time I had it apart, I could not see a hole where to push the pin out (looked like the end of the pin was pushed in a blind hole, that's why I posted. Anybody would know what the standard needle size it on the PHBL26BS for a 2013 GasGas TXT Pro 250? I'd hate to have to take the carb apart just to get the needle size... DC

I think I need to change the gas needle valve on my Dell'Orto. I have a couple of questions: What's the process to change it? I tried to remove the pin that hold the lever that pushes on the gas needle to no avail... What's the needle size? (apparently there are different sizes!) Does anyone has a good source to get them? How about a standard Dell'Orto rebuilt kit? Thanks.

Thanks. Do you have a link to the actual motor?

My fan has started to make a high pitch whine. A gentle (!) tap on the side of the fan usually cured it for the rest of the ride, but now it keep coming back every time the fan goes on. I am about to order a new fan, but I wanted to know if this was a frequent problem and if there was an easy fix. Thanks

I think that dealers with low volume wait to bunch up orders before they place the order with the distributor to save on shipping... Then it takes time for the distributor to pull the parts and ship, for the dealer to unpack, repack and ship... I ordered parts on the 11th of October, and they dealer hasn't shipped them to me yet!!!

Has anyone having problems getting Gas Gas parts in the US through their local dealer? I try to support my local dealer and get stuff through them, but if it's not only cheaper but also much faster to get parts from Europe (1 week usually), it just doesn't make sense to order local. Is Gas Gas just shooting themselves in the foot in the US?

That's how my 2013 250 Pro is setup. The wiring loom is pretty messy and packed up under there, but it's mile better than my Scorpa. I've been thinking about try to make a setup similar to the Sherco / Scorpa / Beta with the CDI hanging on the side of the cylinder, but since it's been working fine so far, I haven't had a need for it.

Thanks! Where can I get the intake manifold (is it the one off the Raga?)? The carbs are actually close to new (Kawasaki factory supported mini top level racer moved to bigger bike and his dad was liquidating his stock of parts). Now... What's the magic jetting for the TXT 250 (main, pilot, needle and slide)? Denis

I have a couple of bash plates that have been "flattened" from... well... bashing on things! One is the stock Gas Gas the other one is a CSP brand. I would like to bend them back to their original shape (or as close as I can) with my hydraulic press. I was wondering if anyone has any experience doing this and if anyone had the smart of making a cardboard cutout of the original (unmolested) profile of the bash plate... Thank in advance for the help. DC

Hi: I scored a pair Keihin PKW 28 from a motocross racer for cheap and I am going to use one to do a conversion on the Fantic 300 I am building up. Since I'll have a spare one, I was wondering if it's worth doing the conversion on my 2013 250 TXT Pro too? What are the pro's and con's and what other parts do I need? Thanks. DC

Left over from my parts bin, see photos. PayPal me postage (+ PayPal fees) and I'll post it). Should have mentioned first... I am located in sunny California, so shipment to Europe might not be worth it...

I didn't know that. Do you have a part number for that?