Jump to content

drca

Members
  • Posts

    157
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by drca
 
 
  1. Thanks, I'll go Nylon or Delrin. What thickness do you recommend?
  2. Thanks guys, I'll pass on the Ohlins and invest into getting classes (and riding more!).
  3. Anyone has any experience with the Jitsie Linkage Suspension protector thingy? What material are they mode out of (flexible rubber, hard nylon / delrin, ...)? Thanks.
  4. I am looking at upgrading my rear shock to a Ohlins from Splat Shop (this one) on my 2013 TXT Pro. I have been doing trials for 1 year now and I have done a couple of events and plan to do more this year (travel schedule permitting). Now... it's a bit of a cash chunk and I don't know that there is anything wrong with my current rear shock, but my experience with suspensions (from years of enduro riding) is that until you try something "better", you don't know how much better is "better" (or how bad what you currently have is) But I also know that it won't make me magically climb 3 foot ledges the day I put it on but hopefully I'll work up to that level in a few months. I've searched on this forum and there isn't much recent on the Ohlins shock so I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on whether this is worth it and and my level what would be the benefits. Thanks. DC
  5. Yeah... I have sprockets on order... my question was really about the type of chain, but thanks for the reminder.
  6. Thanks for all the replies. So I ended up ordering a RK standard chain (I've been pretty happy with RK chains before and it was cheap < US$30 on Amazon Prime) and some good lubricants. I am in Northern California so 8 months of the year we don't know what rain is, and the rest of the time it's too wet to ride... Hoppy trails.
  7. 2013 TXT Pro 250 Just found that my chain has some stiff links and is showing some signs of rust. So time for a replacement. What do people use / recommend? I'd like to go o-ring (or x-ring...) but I am concerned that the o-ring type chains are wider than the regular chains and will cause problem with the chain guide. Thanks.
  8. drca

    2018 EC models

    "Goudarges" as in Gourdargues? If that's the same, I grew up pretty damn close to there, "fell" quite a few times in the canals, swam in the Casecasde du Sautadet every summer, terrorized the whole area on my IT175... Fun memories! How's the trials riding there?
  9. I've the basic full lock turn technique on hard grippy surface down, but on a slippery surface like hard pack dirt covered with loose dirt I keep getting into trouble with the front wheel pushing, sliding on the dirt, enlarging the turn. So I am wondering what's the best technique: keep the bike as straight as possible and lean it in the turn as far as possible? Or anywhere in between. Weight inside / outside peg? Inside / outside bar end? Weight or un-weight the front wheel? Anything else? Thanks. DC
  10. As much as I like to support my local dealers (well there really aren't any around where I am, closest is 2+ hours drive away) I have found trials parts availability in the US to be spotty, parts are very expensive and extra shipping charges usually beyond reasonable ($15 to ship a $2 part... really!!!!). So I have been ordering trials parts from Dherbey Moto. They are the largest trials dealer in France (they sell 400 new bikes and 400 used bikes per year) and have tons of parts in stock (even had stuff for my old Scorpa SY250F!). Prices are excellent (especially for international orders you don't have to pay the VAT - 20%!), much cheaper than any US based dealer and shipping is very reasonable (especially if you order a bunch of stuff) and reasonably fast (they ship same day and it usually arrives to my door step 1 week). Their online shipping estimator for international order is not accurate, so send them an email with the list of what you want to order and they'll send you a quote, then follow up with them once you place your order to make sure they apply the right shipping price. It might not be worth if you need only a brake lever replacement (even tho...), but if you need a set of plastics, clutch discs, shift lever, air filter, etc... definitively a good deal.
  11. I wonder when Montesa will put that in their bikes... http://gizmodo.com/hondas-new-experimental-motorcycle-can-balance-all-by-i-1790635255
  12. Not this time... brand new rear pads :-(
  13. Well, indeed it worked... for about 1/2 hour before the brakes went back to their poor selves! Rear brake is the worse, squealing that a pig been slaughtered (don't ask me how I know... but I do!), then pedal hitting the stop with little to no braking power. I bled them, again and again with no luck. I did take apart the caliper and reassembled everything making sure that the piston operated smoothly. No help. Next thing is to rebuilt the caliper and probably the master cylinder to see if that cures the problem. Still... What pads do you guys recommend (part numbers would be great so that I can look for a source online)? Thanks again for all the help.
  14. I really wished I could help you but... every time I take the tank off it's an endless source of frustration to put it back in because of that wiring mess. I even ripped out (literally) the little side plastic covers one day when I tried to get everything to fit. To make matter worse, the throttle cable splitter fits in the same space and if it's wrong, it will bind and the bike will surge when the handlebar is turned. And today the bike is for sale, so as much as I would like to help, I am not going anywhere near that mess! Good luck on that one and sorry I could not be much help. DC
  15. Someone mentioned that before to me, and I can of filed that as "old wifes tales"... Does it really work? How hot do you get them?
  16. Hi guys, wanted to revive this topic because my pads are really crapped out (wail like a pig been led to slaughter when cold / wet, and weak at best when dry / warm). I bled the brakes several time so I assume the weak brakes aren't coming from air in the brakes. I've been looking around but I haven't been able to find the reference number for the Galfer red pads for the TXT Pro (2013 model). Does anyone have these handy? DC
  17. drca

    What Year Is This?

    Yeah, similar to the Contact model today. But this particular 2013 ECO is cheap at 1500 Euros! Which would work wonders for what I want to do with it.
  18. drca

    What Year Is This?

    Ok, doing more research it might actually be a TXT Pro Eco model. They are not listed on the Gas Gas web site, so I am not sure what year they were available, but I've been able to find used listing for 2011, 2012, 2013's and even 2014. From what I've seen it looks like a mismatch of a 2010 frame, Olle suspension, rear rim without the mid-rib (tubeless???) and Pirelli tires. Does that cover it? Thanks.
  19. I am looking at this 280 TXT Pro online and it's advertised as a 2013 which clearly it is not (old style muffler and rear wheel rim). To it has to be a 2010 (the 2011 had the new style muffler and the graphics seems to match the ones on the one in the photos in the "Previous model" section of the Gas Gas web site). But... the fork has silver tubes and bottoms, which does not match the 2010 specs and photos I have seen. The bike is in Europe (France) if that matters (I am looking for a bike over there to keep around our family home). Will contact the owner soon, but I wanted to see if anyone had any insights on it before. Thanks.
  20. Took an hour off from work before it got too dark and when putting around the back yards in my neighborhood. We had a fair amount of rain recently so it was all loamy dirt, slick logs and mossy rocks. Good fun for 90 minutes tho.
  21. I was wondering how how much slack you put in it. With the chain tensionner I am not sure. Any recommendations?
  22. A big thanks to all the people who were patient enough to read and answer to all my posts and to all the people who keep posting invaluable information on this board. I bought a used 2013 TXT Pro a few weeks ago from a fellow down in Southern California (I am located in Norther CA). The bike had clearly seen some action, with some dings on the frame, fork tube, fork lowers, etc. but all in all the price was fair (it had a "Green Sticker" which is golden here as it allows you to ride year round). After close inspection I found that one of the lower frame tabs was cracked, so I decided to take the bike apart, get the tab welded and while I was at it, get the dings filled (welding) and get the frame, swing arm and forks lowers powder coated. In the process of taking the bike apart, I found that ALL the bearing in the rear suspension were shot (pressure washing I guess since this bike was a dry weather bike), the bash plate was pretty flattened out, the fork bushing where scratched, the water pump drain bolt was smashed, and a few other minor problems. So I order a bunch of spare parts (including some suspension springs to match my weight, bunch of Jitsie guards, new bask plate, etc...) while the frame was being attended by my powder coater. Once I got all the parts, it took me a few days to put it all back together, and once done, I was surprised to see that it started second kick (I didn't open the engine tho, still plenty of compression). Went out for a ride today and it's miles better than my Scorpa four stroke!!! I need to refine the carb settings, new rear brake pads, but otherwise... I think I am going to enjoy it. Here are a few photos. Now... I need to take a riding class to improve my riding ;-) Time to call Adrian. Thanks again to every one. DC
  23. Great! I guess unless the bike is upside down for and extended amount of time nothing should leak out of there. Thanks.
  24. Quick question (2013 TXT Pro): where is the engine breather tube suppose to go? On some other bikes I've had it's routed back in the airbox... Not sure what people do on the Gas Gas. Thanks.
  25. Almost done rebuilding my 2013 250 TXT Pro and while putting the rear caliper on the swing arm I realized that the rear pads could use some freshening up. Haven't had a look at the front ones yet, but might as well get some spares for them now even if they are still good. So... What's the forum wisdom on which pads to get (brand / model number Front / Rear)? I ride in California, so think dry and dusty and very little water. Currently the front brakes are a little "grabby" so if I could fix that at the same time that would be great. As always, many thanks in advance for all the help. DC
 
×
  • Create New...