Very true, I think I'll just buy a new one, the trouble is I don't know which one to get? I think, from what I've read it looks like a 2.5 but just need someone with a bit more knowledge than I to confirm
I spoke to a nice chap at Allens Performance, he sold me a 2.5 - Seems my carb is off an old Beta Rev4.
I’d be very surprised if the needle valve shown actually seals it looks very ridged. Needle valve and seat called for....or suitable material from which to make both. So that’ll be a lathe and various tooling plus drawings and dimensions, £3,500 should cover it???♂️?
Very true, I think I'll just buy a new one, the trouble is I don't know which one to get? I think, from what I've read it looks like a 2.5 but just need someone with a bit more knowledge than I to confirm
Just rushed out into the garden and rummaged around in me bushes but no scrap bike parts potentially worth a Bonhams ransom price....just Mr.Toad? soaking in the damp?atmosphere.
I have no idea what anything is worth
I'm trying to justify spending £12 on a new float valve.....
I could have saved myself a lot of money I had a garage clear out years ago when I never thought I'd get round to fixing it, a pair of forks, triple tree, rear wheel, clubfoot exhaust, airbox and seat all went in a skip
That BRG colour might look quite good with the right colour Bultaco tank decals and the red roundals in the recesses. If you want a bit more urge fit an earlier and larger air box, it was a factory mod ( bit reverse if you ask me) it does take up a lot of room but does give the engine more to breathe from.
A point about your front brake, not a criticism more an observation. It’s set up like the M80 and earlier models, yours is supposed to be at the front side of the fork leg. It works either way but if you research a bit you’ll see what I mean. As it is if you should be in a situation where the front wheel passes over a rock as an example when it drops down the brake arm could catch on the rock applying said brake. This won’t be a serious issue unless you have the only Bultaco front brake that actually stops you. Just thought I’d mention it?
Thanks for that, I'd actually thought about getting some larger than standard roundels made as per my avatar! Of memory serves the recesses are about 50-ishmm across, I was thinking the only decals would be some 60-75mm green and white stickers (there a company about 5 minutes walk away that does graphics, quoted me about £12 for the pair!
As for the front brake, you are an observant one aren't you and you and @woody are so very close, it's a 199 with a 199-A engine and I think it's an M49 front end! If anyone wants a 49 front end swap I'm open to it
Any more to report Speshal ? I have enjoyed your baptism of fire, should we say, of your crusade to rescue one more Bultaco that could so easily have been lost for ever. Well done for putting a lot of effort into your build. Don Paco would have been proud of you ! John, down in Jsy.
Hi John, many thanks for your kind words, they are greatly appreciated
I've realised during this process, you need, patience, time and money.
Patience I have in spades, it's just the other two I'm struggling with at the moment!
Although that said, progress has been made, yet still lots to do!
@stpauls said "Bultacos should be red. The blue ones just don't look right."
and @thai-ty said "Bultacos should be blue with a white frame. The red ones just don't look as good.."
Cheers for that Graham, luckily enough I live not too far away from the company I purchased it from, so I popped down there this morning and they swapped it over for a nice shiny new one that has better welds on it too
Hi guys, just checking in and to have a small rant
You may have noticed that between the first post in this thread and this post it's been.....a while...... and I'll explain a little bit why, I am the sole carer for my darling wife who has a severe spinal condition so I'm restoring my bike when I can and when I can afford it.
I was luckily enough to be able to afford a new exhaust mid section at the start of March, so I ordered one from a company (I'll not name names until it's resolved but I will say it WASN'T Inmotion) and got the right royal run around about how there was no current stock but they'd have some in by the second week of March.
The second week of March went by and still no word, so another email was sent, a week later I was told that they were having some more made and it should be with me at the start of April.............
Long story short, it arrived today, hooray!
Except no, not really hooray, it's got some terrible gouges out of the metal on the outside and these are consistent with the marks in the packaging from the manufacturer and not from the delivery company, I know it's cosmetic but when you've saved up for something, you'd want it to arrive in pristine condition. Oh and I'm no expert but some of the welds look a bit shady too.
Does anyone have any chain recommendations? I'm looking at the 520 Regina gold one that InMotion sells, are these any good? Also what's a good length, the manual says 52, my old chain was 49 so I'm a little confused any help greatly appreciated. If it's any help the front sprocket has 12 teeth, rear 40.
After 26 years of sitting, neglected, in the garage............
IT STARTS!!!!!
Three things happened at that exact moment in time, a grown man had a little cry, the dog started barking and I deafened myself as I was in a relatively enclosed space with no exhaust pipe on it!
Thanks for everyone's help, expect many, many more stupid questions in this thread
Grooved float jet needle generally causes flooding. Most likely cause of no fuel getting to plug is gummed up pilot jet, if you're worried it doesn't cost that much to replace every jet in your carb
Cheers for that Tony
I've pulled it all apart given everything a good clean with Carb cleaner, will see if that works.
I got spark and I had air going through the carb but the plug was always dry when I tried to kick it over so decided that the carb must be bunged up, It's got a Mikuni VM26-208 on it. The prospect of taking the carb apart scared the beejebus out of me - bits pinging out everywhere, losing stuff which I can't currently afford to replace but I found a few Youtube videos that demystified the voodoo surrounding carbs, so I took it apart, most of the videos I found were from Canada and to do with taking apart SnowMobile carbs but many of them mentioned that if you had a groove in the needle it was probably a good idea to replace it, so I was just wondering what you'd do if this was yours....?
From memory I used a piece of aluminium flat bar which was bolted to the old coil mount, the bar extends forward towards the headstock, the new coil was then mounted off that.
Cheers for that 325, it gave me an idea.
I took the old coil bracket and mounted an L shape bar on to it.
Excuse the somewhat "agricultural" appearance, this picture was of a test fitting and using any old bolts that were lying around
I can take a photo of mine but it will have to wait until Monday though. I leave early tomorrow morning for the Queensland Classic, Twinshock and Air Cooled Mono Championships in Stanthorpe. I`m camping there and Saturday night they are forecasting -5 degrees celsius. Should be a great weekend though. Graham.
That's great, Thanks Graham. I'd be interested to see how you've done it. I have an idea of using the old bracket from the Femsa coil to hold the new one, I just have to work out how to get it apart.
Great, thanks for that info Graham, I'll give it a try
I was also wondering if anyone had a picture of how they have mounted an electronic ignition (the one from InMotion) - I have an idea but it doesn't look very neat and wondered if anyone else had a solution before I go hacking at the HT lead to shorten it
When spraying your engine with VHT paint from Halfords, despite the can saying black on it and the cap lid being black and the assistant in Halfords reassuring you that it's actually black when you ask, you might really want to do a test spraying because as I learnt to my cost the contents of the tin MIGHT BLOODY WELL NOT BE BLACK.........
It dried to a very fetching matt ash grey.........................................
Although to be fair to Halfords, when I went and explained the problem they did replace the paint with no hassle, I think they may have been aware of this problem beforehand.
All cases have the 112 number. Not sure the reason for that. It isn't a part number. Could have been a reference number that the foundry used when casting the parts...........Steve
Very true, I think I'll just buy a new one, the trouble is I don't know which one to get? I think, from what I've read it looks like a 2.5 but just need someone with a bit more knowledge than I to confirm 
Thanks for that, I'd actually thought about getting some larger than standard roundels made as per my avatar! Of memory serves the recesses are about 50-ishmm across, I was thinking the only decals would be some 60-75mm green and white stickers (there a company about 5 minutes walk away that does graphics, quoted me about £12 for the pair!
.
Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed
in Bultaco
Posted
I spoke to a nice chap at Allens Performance, he sold me a 2.5
- Seems my carb is off an old Beta Rev4.