+1 for the progressive spring. I wouldn't go back to standard. Also i've experimented with different weight oil. I'm using 7wt now and I enjoy it, all the bigger slams feel quite plush. Mine is '12 Evo
Sounds like the bike is overheating(if it's not overfilled). Is the fan turning on and running ok?
I had such symptoms when breather from the fuel cap was blocked. This leads to fuel starvation-> lean running-> overheating-> then coolant loss. Might be a good idea to check this too.
I had the same ajp setup on beta. Tried the galfer pads - brake was a bit stronger. Now using monoblock+ master cylinder from braktec. Had to use hose + banjo fitting which you can easily get from splatshop.co.uk. They have a range of venhill hoses and fittings for it- works perfect. Now I can really enjoy the stopping power and play with stoppies, ride downhill on the front wheel with a lot of control. Well worth it IMO and I could not get stopping power that I wanted from the stock setup. And I havent tried a wavey disc yet - it should be even better then.
NIce bike! I also have my beloved '12 Beta 4t. I did a couple of mods to it. braktec master cylinders + monobloc caliper. Finally have a really responsive front brake, brilliant for stoppies and just full control when going downhill. Clutch master improved the clutch feel & response and has lighter pull.
For the front suspension, I'm using progressive spring and recently using 7.5wt oil and that changed the response of fork for better. Bigger jumps are much better handled. I've put an Ohlins in the back. Big improvement - traction is really good now and good for bigger jumps, it's nice & smooth.
Had a 10t front sprocket, but found that 1st gear is rarely used, and 2nd was v low too. Now i'm using 11t and think it's the better option, but I'm using arrow exhaust so have more punch. Now the 1st is much more usable. And generally rides better - especially after doing jumps, there is not so much engine braking when landing and bike behaves a bit better for me. Gonna keep it for a long time. Nothing has such a grip as me 4t.
Everytime I wash my bike (no jet wash), after i'm done I am drying it with yellow cheap Vacuum cleaner from Lidl (you can use it as a blower with hose attached to the back of it). It's the best method to dry your bike and drive water out from all crevices and hard to reach areas. No need to turn on bike after that.
Beta 4t 300 with original exhaust is nearly unnoticeable when riding. So quiet - I have no problems practising in my backyard and neighbours are 20m away.
I need all the clutch control I can get. Perhaps it will come down to easy availability. Thanks.
Biggest change in clutch performance I have experienced was when I have upgraded clutch master cylinder to new Braktec master cylinder (same as on factory models and rest of new trials bikes). It brought a lot of feel and much more progressive action together with making clutch slightly easier to pull. I have a really well controllable clutch now. Still looking into getting upgraded clutch plates though for max gains If it comes to oil, I want to test Repsol 10w50 fully synthetic, after trying Motul 7100 as it's in good price.
And finally this is how the soles look after 1 hour test ride in woods. When I was riding I lost some confidence in this fix and thought I would easily get through the shoe-goo patch. But to my surprise, riding hasn’t done almost any damage at all. I am impressed by how well shoe-goo has glued to rest of the sole. That fix should last a good while and you can always put some new layers of shoe-goo on top of old ones.
After applying about half of 59ml tube of shoe-goo. You can get shoe-goo for less than 10 pounds from eBay. This stuff releases toxic gases, really bad for your health, so I advise doing that job outside.
Thanks lotus54. 15W60 suggests that the oil viscosity will be the same when cold but greater when hot. While I can appreciate that other factors in the Motul oil may be beneficial, I don't think the grade change is going to help me. If there was a 10W50 I might be tempted by that. Motul do a 10W40 but I would be reluctant to go thinner at high temp.
Anyone else got any suggestions?
For my Beta 4t I've run Ipone 10w-50 offroad fully synthetic for 2 years, never had clutch drag issue.
Now using Motul 7100 10w-50 ma2 fully synth road oil (I am using it for my ktm 990 too) - there is a clutch drag from time to time, only in first moment after starting up the bike. Otherwise is v. good - I think i might have slightly better clucth control vs Ipone i was using.
It might be a gimmick it might be not. Certainly it's a novelty and different approach to what we're used to. I'm open minded and would be happy to see more tests that would prove either way. Would't buy it for that price before testing. I've sent an email to manufacturers for a free device for testing hahah
Engine size: 250 cc = 0.25l Engine revolution: 2000 rev./ min. = 33 rev / sec.
So 33 x 0.25l = 2.062.50l = 2.06 m³ of air is used per second.
Do you believe this tiny plaque is capable to ionize 2 m³ of air in a second?
You can ionize air for which you need a couple of thousand volts, and if you ionize the named 2 m³ per second there would be a side effect of static charges to all metal near by that lead to violent lightning.
Who said it has to ionise all volume that's entering intake, even if done partially it might have positive effect in combustion chamber. They're not using electricity to ionise but noble metals and ceramics?. It could works similarly to air purifiers. Anions will attract particles from air to surfaces, stop them being airborne.
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Evo 2010 front spring
in Beta
Posted
+1 for the progressive spring. I wouldn't go back to standard. Also i've experimented with different weight oil. I'm using 7wt now and I enjoy it, all the bigger slams feel quite plush. Mine is '12 Evo