proper

I just mounted it to the earthing lug, seems to fit fine underneath the tank. .

Cheerio, Bought a 2010 Beta 80 for little money, in a shabby condition. It's been restored with much TLC to it's former glory, including freshly painted frame, all new bearings, new clutch, new small end, chain set, replaced ton's of broken parts, and fresh plastic body parts all around. Last bits and pieces, and I'm finished, and my 10yo can finally make the transition from his Oset 20". BUT. Last evening I kept searching for the correct mounting point for the rectifier, but wasn't able to find one. Anybody that can point me in the right direction? Greatly appreciated! Yours truly, Vincent

Dear Julio, This is an English language forum. You don't even try. You need a flywheel puller. You've sent me PM's to which I correctly replied, and tried to help you to my best ability. Somehow you think I need to provide/sell you a 320 flywheel puller. You are wrong. My suggestion: sort out your own mess. Two options: 1. Buy the proper tool from Sherco. https://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-flywheel-puller-4t.html 2. Make your own using a Chinese tap: https://a.aliexpress.com/_vNvdZz Good luck.

Nope. I'm still running the Maikuni on those jets. Experienced one instance where the bike refused to start. Didn't feel like pressing on, had others things to do on the club, so I left it. Started it next week without trouble. Guess we all have an off day sometimes.

I've never been a star in Spanish, other then the obligatory "dos cervezas por favor".

Thanks! Gonna try that.

Morning, I've got the red Galfer brake pads on both our Sherco 3.2 and our Scorpa TY125, and have used them also on previous bikes. These pads are praised highly in the community. But they can't convince me. Initial feel is good, but after a few sessions, they start glazing, squeaking, and fail to deliver any bite at all. This happens on all our bikes, and the sensation can be best described as having your pads covered in oil. (they are not) Patching the pads up, by sanding them, works just for a few sessions. We strictly ride in a forest We clean the bikes every session only using tap water, no HP. If brakes need cleaning, we use compressed air and brake cleaner. The caliper is centered to the disc, and leak-free. No binding of the brake pistons, or dragging brakes. I'm running a Sherco 125 on standard pads, which seems to work fine. I'm wondering if I need some sort of break-in procedure to make the Galfers work as they should.

The 320 developed a bad habit of cutting out while stationary. You heard it running rougher and rougher at tick over, and with a big yelp would quit on me. Could live with that, if it would start the first kick after that, but it didn't. It would take 5 min of frantic starting, walking of frustrated, come back 15 min later, and having it running without trouble. Messed with the carb settings, but I was unable to get it behaving the way I wanted, and never got solid feedback from the motor on the air screw. (3/4 out). Not sure where to start, I stumbled on the Maikuni PWK carbs. US $34.00 | Motorcycle Racing parts Carburetor pwk 21 24 26 28 30 32 34 mm PWK Carb With Power Jet Fit Scooter ATV Dirt Bike cub https://a.aliexpress.com/_BTh7YK Price was good, it looked the bizz, never mind the reviews, just order and see. I choose a slightly bigger one this time, 26mm. (the OKO was 24) It's a quality item, different to the OKO in many ways. The gas slide was a perfect fit on this one, as opposed to the OKO, which had quite some play all around. Fitting it was a half an hour job, but could not get it to run using slightly larger jets. Tried 6 other configs, until there where signs of life. Settled for the Maikuni on a 35 pilot jet (38 on the OKO), and a whopping 115 main jet. (85 on the OKO). It likes a first kick with choke. Choke off, one kick, running very stable on low tick over. Generally speaking this carb seems to suit the bike very well. Instant grunt, easy starting, also when warm. We will see if the cutout problem has been solved with this mod. The CSP Air screw is 1 1/2 turns out, and bike responds well to changes. Jobs left to do: there's 1 cm (1/2") of rear wheel suspension play at the bottom, probably because of linkage bearing play. Have a set new ones laying around. Might top it off with a new TRP shock.

Thanks! More luck than skill, I'm afraid, but it's always a gamble how modifications will work out. Got it running again today, after 8 months of just being pretty in the workshop. I hated this little job, and I learned not to start those jobs, if you're not mentally prepared and ready for it. Nothing more frustrating than to strip a bike you just assembled afters years of building it, and spending a fortune on it. In the mean time I just rode the old 290 spare bike we have. Luxury, and it's a nice vicious thing to ride and crash on. In the end, all it took were just 2 half days, to disassemble, repair, and assemble the bike. No more clunking noises from the valve/camchain area. It started third kick cold after I refreshed the fuel in the carb bowl. It runs a very solid dab-dab-dab, no choke required. Plan is to ride trial together with my youngest son (8) on his OSET tomorrow. #Good times

Got the new needle bearings in. The camshaft was raised by this, meaning I had to shave of about 0.05mm from the shims. Did this to great effect with a wetstone lubed with WD40.

Still had noise from the valve area. Managed to bugger up the valve cover seal while reassembling the camshaft side bearing cover. (You need to lift the valve cover to do this) So, I bit the bullet, and started to disassemble the bike. There's a lot to remove to be able to get the valve cover off. While mounting the camshaft side bearing cover, I run my finger through the needle bearing hole, and felt a very loose bearing with a very rough bearing surface. You could actually hear it rattle while turning the bearing. The surface feels like constant dimples, it's like your childhood bike with a playing card through the spokes. I ordered a new bearing, luckily it's not a press fit, and the old one pops out with ease. I'm very worried that this means new valve clearance adjustment, but at least another source of noise is eliminated.

I've fitted All balls seals to my roadbike forks, and they were definitely much tighter than the stock seals. Hammering them into the tube couldn't be achieved with a PVC pipe. (it broke) After hours of frustration, I changed tactics. Took a piece of paint stirring wood, which had a nice rounded fillet at one end, so it didn't damage the seal. Used a 2 pound hammer to drive in the seal using the piece of wood, slowly going round to achieve an even movement down. I even had to use the wooden driver for the dust seal. (I then noticed I had forgotten to mount a metal bushing inside the tube, and had to do the whole operation again, killing my sliding bushes in the process....)

Getting there! It started cold on choke this morning! When warm, choke off, no bog, no lag, instant power from idle. Better still, it hot started first kick...

Found out I'm running a 102 main jet instead of 105. Changed a lot: 42 pilot jet (back from 45) Replaced choke mechanism (from an OKO repair kit, had better seals against air leakage) Decreased choke jet bore (difficult to explain, but I crammed an O-ring cutoff inside the choke jet that's in the bowl, then created a small hole with a jet reamer. Highly experimental. Not recommended. Mounted OKO slide instead of the Keihin slide. (Fits snug, the Keihin slide has much more play, possibly letting through air during starting, when high vacuum is needed) Removed fuel filter (to prevent air in fuel hose) Set float height (it was a bit off) Replaced needle (had a nice shiny one in the OKO repair kit) Replaced and rerouted fuel line (previous hose developed a slight kink)

Started really easy, first kick. Little throttle, no bog or lag. Adjusted air screw and idle. As the engine warmed, the bike started running poorer. The fan works. Spat a few drops of cooling fluid from the overpressure valve in the cap, but that seems normal to me on the first shakedown. Teeny weeny oil leakage from the valve side cover. Forgot if I used threadlock on the cam chain sprocket bolts, so will check those too while I'm at it. Had a few hot starts. Procedure seems to be: Close fuel tap. Kick one time with half throttle. Kick one time closed throttle Next kick starts the bike. This worked every time. Air temperature is raised to 15°C this weekend. Will keep the needle position, but go back to 42 on the pilot jet.

The carb tuning manual specifically states: Never change more than one thing at once. So I changed the Pilot to 45, and moved the needle up. My OKO runs the original Keihin slide and top-end assembly. To my surprise, the needle clip was at position 2, so I moved it to the middle position for no good reason at all but my curiosity. More test runs today. For those who frequently work their carbs: how do you prevent the mess and smell? There's quite some fuel in the bowl, which only seems to come out when you open here up. Maybe a large bowl filled with granular absorbents? What I do now, is use cleaning cloths to absorb the fuel, and put them in a plastic bag with a loose knot. Cloths get added to the bag until work is finished, and the bag gets a tight knot and goes outside. Must say: the smell works wonders keeping the missus and kids out of the workshop.

And 5 points.

And sore upper leg muscles.

It's called "Character".

Reminder: comparing current temperatures to summer values, to get the same fuel mix, needs one size smaller pilot and one size smaller main jet.

Been tinkering with this Excel sheet. First setup is current. Second setup is raised needle. Doesn't do anything for the first 1/4 turn of throttle. (Dashed green line = relative change to current setup) Third setup is increased pilot jet. (Dashed red line) It does the opposite of raised needle. It ONLY increases fuel mix the first 1/4 turn of throttle. Will go for the third option.

Try closing the fuel tap right after it stalled. It makes starting easier. Don't forget to open the tap after starting.

Some observations after riding it around the neigbourhood for a while: - Two kicks without choke or throttle and it ran. - It run for a minute, nice steady idle. - Applied a tiny bit of throttle, and it instantly died. - It was a bitch to start after that. - I need to workout more. - Closed the fuel tap, - No choke, no throttle, a few kicks and it ran again. - Opened the fuel tap. - Let it idle for a minute, tiny bit of throttle, it dies. - This repeated several times. - I really, really need to workout more. - Adjusted air mix and idle. - Gave some more initial throttle, and it took on revs. Ran perfectly after that. - Takes on revs really easy. Clutch slips in fourth on half throttle. - It died later on while engine braking - Increased idle. It's actually easy to kick, with the piston back in just beyond top position afer every kick. The trick with the fuel switch works great, essential solution learned from kicking the **** out of my original '86 Honda XL350R. Tried to open the chocke a litle bit while idling, but it instantly lowered the revs. Need to analyze the behaviour - It would be nice if the choke can be used. - It would be nice if it doesn't die on a bit of throttle while still being cold. Maybe those clutch springs need to go back. Maybe keep them out on the first few sessions, as a life saver. Edit: Been reading up on bogs from idle, will try to move the needle up one notch, and adjust the air screw a bit more careful. The choke seems to be designed for 2stroke operation (yikes!), and is useless on a thumper.

Thank you Mister Section Swept from the land of Robin Hood!

Project started with this in 2017: Bike has been taken apart, the following has been done: - Powdercoated frame - Replaced rocker arm - Lapped the valves - Polished the intake and exhaust ports - Adjusted the valves - Painted the engine (brush + heat gun) - New exhaust header pipe - Polished the exhaust silencer (Doesn't deserve that name) - New gaskets - New red spark plug cap - New iridium spark plug - New OKO 24mm carb, 105 main, 42 pilot - New red air & idle mixture srews - Cleaned and greased all the linkage bearings - Painted the rear shock (Motip white wheelpaint) - New red rear sprocket 41T and bolts - New chain (Splatshop said red, but is was actually neon red) - New front sprocket 10T - New red chain tensioner S3 - Polished swingarm - New red snail cams and nut - New wheelbearings - New rear spacer hub - New side stand, the old stronger steel version. - New red footpegs - Polished bash plate - New plastics. (all plastics) - New graphics - Painted the tank (Motip white wheelpaint) - New Galfer 223 red front brake pads. - New fork seals - New fork top/bottom bushes - Polished fork stanchions - Repaired black fork tubes scratching with epoxy - New fork oil, 5wt - New red fatbar 5.0" handlebars - New red forged clutch / brake fully adjustable levers - New red master cylinder covers - New Domino grips - New slow action throttle - New stickers Bike was exchanged for a Beta Rev3, for which I originally paid about 1000 GBP. Total investment in parts during two years about 1500 GBP. Amount of hours invested: too much. Still, this is way more fun than buying a well cared after used one. This is now my bike. I know every part, know how to reach and service those parts. The bike has been modified to my liking, and even when some things can still be improved, it is now time to ride it. There's probably still some development to do with the carb and suspension, will keep you posted. Vincent