jono

sounds like it could be piston slap..... had this on montesa... a worn piston skirt makes a kind of dry clanging noise, more noticable to spectator than rider. got steadlily worse over 4 months of abuse piston skirt to bore clearance should be around 2 thou new, about 4 thou at max wear. check bore for deep scoring, replate if worn through nikasil coating also as mentioned check crankshaft play then check con rod big end and little end.

couldnt workout why my airbox kept filling with dust particles and water, even after 2 new air filters and a new filter cover. found out that the platic had cracked on the seam where the lugs for the mudguard support brackets are, the split only became apparent when you aplied force to the bracket. sealed it up with some super sticky silicone, problem solved. also fitted some of those boyesen reeds, (thanks ff) what a difference, super strong midrange now and revs to infinity and beyond, no noticable change at low revs. excellent, cheap and easy mod. jono

have had my 2003 315r for about a month now after having a 1996 gg jtr 270 for years. suspension is silky smooth and manuovering the bike is effortless compared to the gg thanks to lightweight ally frame, superb brakes, and balanced handling. have still got some work to do to get the engine to run as smooth as the gasgas, probably thicker base gasket or different needle. plenty of power but not as linear yet. generally i found i never really need more than 1st and 2nd gear as the engine revs out so well.

how long should i run in freshly rebuilt engine, have heard various times from 5 mins(mx boys) to two tanks of fuel. engine is gg 1996 270 has had new bore plating, piston, rings, rod, bearings should i run more 2t oil for first tank? cheers jono

i think pj1 do some specific engine case paints for the external i will leave the inside of the engine case bare (bead blasted)will paint the outside of the casings later. do you know the tourque setiings for the flywheel? and the nut on the otherside.

am in the final stages of rebuilding the engine on my 1996 jtr 270. noticed alot of corrosion in the crank case, kind of brown mud looking substance but very gritty, may of been the cause of the engine wear. has corroded max 2mm deep in places, mostly at the bottom, not in any structural places or bearing/sealing faces am told this is the result of fuel oil corrsion? i have always used fully synthetic 2t oil and decent fuel (not 6 month old lawnmower fuel) the longest the bike has stood still is 3-4 months. are you supposed to flush out crank case or leave the drain plug out, when you leave the bike for long periods? should the crank case be painted? if so with what? so far i have bead blasted most of the corrosion out, and am waiting for my crank to have new rod fitted. any info greatly appreciated

my old man has a fantic progress 2 i think its an 87 model, front disk but cable operatied with master cylinder seperate, rear drum aircooled mono white with red and blue decals very smooth engine excellent in mud, grips up everything the new bikes struggle on he bought it new so there must be some paperwork for it somewhere, will look for you

tried some 102 octane turbo fuel from work, mixed with a bit of normal unleaded, still seemed to pink but my fan wasnt working have since fixed fan and will try some optimax at weekend will also change plug and clean idle jet, also check for coke buidup on cylinder head and piston. can i richen up idle mixture with the little screw on side of carb? when i asked about timing i was thinking of retarding it to smooth pout power not to make it more snappy. thanks for advice jono

has any one fitted boysen reed valves to a 315r? if so what is involed? would you have to do carb mods? can you adjust ignition map in the cdi unit? the tickover seems to be very noisey, sounds like pinking, may just be something vibrating but cannot seem to find anything. any info greatly appreciated

does anyone know of any trials on in kent this sunday? am eager to put new bike through paces

am prowd owner of a 2003 315r after i got used to the intial extra poke compared to my old gasgas, i was very pleased with the bike, engine is silky smooth and found grip everywhere. brakes are super sharp and bike seems very flickable/ agile the tyre fell off the rear rim though (michellin tubeless), towards the end of the day, think i was running to soft or got puncture? questions 1. what causes the tubless tyres fall off rim... i.e what pressure? question 2. how the fk do you get it back onto the rim? question 3. what is main advantage of tubeless? apart for pinch punctures my gasgas runs an inner tube, thinking of sticking one in montesa for convinience.. do i need tyre clamps?

thanks for the input, i think i am 90% in favour of the montesa route. the bike must last me more than two years i am not worried about the extra 3 kilos (doesnt seem to bother dougie). i love hondas have had numerous cars, worked on numerous honda racing cars, so i suppose am a honda fan? have got at least 4 to look at this weekend, quick before this cash burns a hole in my pocket. thanks for all the input am new to this forum and didnt realise how popular it is... keep up the good work admin's

thanks for advice.. sounds like the vanilla chocolate analogy is about as close to an exact answer. i think both bikes are on a par with each other so will see which dealer can come up with the best offer.. will let you know outcome thanks again jono maybe i should buy both just to be sure!

would like some advice on wheather to by a Montesa 315r or a 290 sherco i have max 2000 to spend i am upgrading from 96 gasgas jtr 270. will be using it for kentish trials (i.e mud and logs) novice/inter and lots of practicing / jumping and larking around would like a lighter more modern bike i love the fact that the Montesa has a honda engine (i had a crm 250 and was over the moon with engine). have ridden the sherco and liked the light feel and buckets of power (if a little too much) am worried about reliability especially if im buying second hand, if previous owner hasnt change oil/filters etc. not too keen on doing shed loads of maintenance every week and want total confidence in the machine. any help would be apprecieted jono

ok thanks will check on w/end regarding cylnider/bore scoring. when does a scratch become a score and when does a score become a gash and require replating?