Have done searches, and can't find much on the way of getting to the rear shock assembly on an EVO 4T to replace the spring. I've read where some have had to pull the air boot, pull the exhaust, kick stand and the entire shock linkage assembly to get the shock out.
I'm just wanting to replace my spring. If I pull the exhaust, pull the top bolt and then spin back the large spring lock nuts,
1. Does the large slotted washer at the top of the shock simply slide out?
2. Would it then be possible to let the swingarm fall a little more after removing the top shock bolt and wiggle the spring out from the top?
If not, what is the simplest way to get at the rear spring?
I'll measure where the shock lock nuts are to get the pre-load back close to where it was with the other spring, but then I plan to adjust my static and rider sag anyway when I'm done.
I don't hook mine up at all, so didn't tap the main fuel line. I carry a small gatorade bottle to transfer fuel when needed. Makes it easy to take the tank/seat off even out on the trail if I want it out of the way. The PO of my bike passed along this tip when I bought the bike. Said he had a case where the routing of the lines caused it to burn or rub through.
Some people have suggested to me that I should use 127.5 main jet but 120 seems to be working fine for me.
There's nothing tricky about the spring. The difficult bit is removing and refitting the carb on the engine. I wouldn't suggest this is definitive, but it goes something like this:
Remove rear mudguard.
Remove airbox (The jubilee clip may be difficult to access and there are two hidden rubber pipes under the main part.)
Disconnect the top of the rear shock and lean it back.
Remove CDI unit on right hand side.
Remove the finned aluminium ignition box that lies on top of the gearbox.
Remove the rubber connector to the carb. (Another tricky jubilee clip).
Disconnect the fuel pipe and throttle cable.
Undo the jubilee clip fixing the carb to the engine stub (this one may be easier).
Twist, fiddle, wiggle and turn the carb until it comes out, probably on the left side.
When you come to refit the carb, take care to make sure none of the breather pipes are going to touch the exhaust and try to point the jubilee clips in the direction that is easiest for access. I found it was easiest to leave all the jubilee clips loose until everything was together, then tighten them all. It helps with the alignment.
Awesome. Thanks for the details - just what I need! I've ordered new front and rear springs, so will be pulling the shock. Will plan to do it all at once. May post some pics of the whole thing to post in this thread (1. in case I screw it up and need help, 2. to help the next rider wanting to do this).
This is the table I found somewhere with the recommended settings:
I followed the 300 competition settings and got a lot of popping in the exhaust. I've now wound the idle mixture out from 2 to 2.5 turns (it's actually a "fuel screw", not an "air screw") and that stopped it. The engine is obviously a lot happier as the idle speed went way up, and had to be adjusted down with the normal idle adjustment screw.
As you can see there is no allowance for altitude. I would guess that these would work up to 1000m. Above that, you're on your own.
Taking the carb off is a pig of a job, but once it's out the rest is easy. Remove the plastic top cover (2 screws) to get to the spring and diaphragm. Remove four screws on the bottom to drop off the float chamber and get access to the jets.
Thanks for the help. I am assuming mine has the stock competition jets in it (a reply from Mike Cozza at Beta USA indicated it should have 127.5 main and 27.5 pilot). I think I'll order a few jets larger for the main before I pull the carb, so that hopefully I only have to go through the process at one time.
Any trick to replacing the spring once the top is off?
Just bought a used 16 EVO 300 4T up in Colorado (first trials bike for me). Rode it while up there (5-6,000 feet elevation). Starts easy, however, it had a lot of decel pop, and flamed out a large number of times. I assume it's running very lean. I actually live at sea level in Alabama. Just got home yesterday to a hurricane, so haven't ridden it here yet. Assume it's going be even leaner down here. Also, the PO said he put the blue spring in, and he provided me with the stiffer spring.
Q: Where can I find jets for this carb, and does anyone have any info on what jets are recommended for different altitudes? Also, any instructions on how to replace the spring and the jets?
Been riding all my life (58), currently riding a 17 Husky FE501 and a 13 Yamaha Super Tenere. Today, added my first trials bike to the list, a 16 Beta Evo 300 4T. Looking forward to learning a whole new genre of riding! Thanks in advance for all of your help.
2016 Evo 4T - replace rear spring w/o pulling shock?
in Beta
Posted
Have done searches, and can't find much on the way of getting to the rear shock assembly on an EVO 4T to replace the spring. I've read where some have had to pull the air boot, pull the exhaust, kick stand and the entire shock linkage assembly to get the shock out.
I'm just wanting to replace my spring. If I pull the exhaust, pull the top bolt and then spin back the large spring lock nuts,
1. Does the large slotted washer at the top of the shock simply slide out?
2. Would it then be possible to let the swingarm fall a little more after removing the top shock bolt and wiggle the spring out from the top?
If not, what is the simplest way to get at the rear spring?
I'll measure where the shock lock nuts are to get the pre-load back close to where it was with the other spring, but then I plan to adjust my static and rider sag anyway when I'm done.
Any help is appreciated.
Mark