Guns ... that is not the best solution ... can get you in trouble.
Best solution is a road registered bike and an electric driven rolling gate or door because:
easy to close and open just by key or transponder, in holidays you can even shut down the electric supply,
very difficult to open if closed without electricity, if you try it it will get noisy.
I never heard of burglars trying to open electric rolling gates section gates and.doors of course also standard garage gates, but rolling gates ... my advice in this department beside good insurance.
I dunno, they are a pretty good deterrent here in lower Alabama. Not trying to start a gun debate. Every drughead or crook knows there's a 50/50 chance that whomever they are stealing from has a gun within arm's reach. It isn't seen here as everyone being under some kind of threat, so has a gun out of fear. People here see having guns as a protected right. They aren't threatening anyone with them, they just have them for sport, hunting and protecting their families (and it's a vert good deterrent when so many have them)
Whether we're not home or not, we also have Ring doorbell and floodlight cameras that alert our phones if they detect any activity. These are proactive and inexpensive.
My son just picked up this leftover 17 4RT260 for me up in Michigan. I'll get it from him when we meet up at Trials Training Days at the end of March. Can't wait to see how it handles vs my Beta EVO 4t.
Not sure whether the 17 fits the 18 or not, however, the link is to Beta USA. If you send them an email detailing what you are looking for, they are usually very quick to come back to you:
Hi, my solenoid failed... Seized and shorted out internally which caused flooding and a slow running fan. I took it apart but there's nothing that you can do with it really. New solenoid for a 2013 was £120 I think... I machined an adapter plate and fitted a fuel tap directly to the tank outlet. Bike runs fine. Still floods if it's been on its side but no different to my sons 2014 4t with a working solenoid. We find on both bikes that if it doesn't restart after a couple of kicks then it will if you keep the throttle wide open.
Thanks. Kinda thought it was toast. Anyway, a couple of weeks ago I ordered a manual in-line petcock. I installed it this morning. Worked out pretty well. I found a hanger bolt that sits in a pretty good spot for attaching the petcock. I had to get a longer bolt and a small spacer to fix the petcock in this spot. At least now I can positively shut the fuel off and eliminate my fuel tank from draining.
Has anyone tore into the fuel solenoid? Mine is obviously just stuck open. Every day I ride it, it will completely drain every drop of fuel I put in the tank until empty. I have the solenoid in the "Auto" position (up) . . . Bike hot or cold. . . Fuel cap on or off . . . Doesn't matter. Empties the tank. I now live with a metal pan under the bike in my garage to catch all remaining fuel in the tank after a daily ride.
I've bought an inline petcock valve to at least have a positive way to shut off the fuel at the end of the day, but I'd sure like to get the solenoid working, as I know it's also intended to keep the bowl from filling when I simply shut the bike off (or stall it in a fall). Right now, I'm pretty well having to start the bike as in flooded condition (WOT). Can't be a good thing to have to do. Hard to believe a simple float valve on a Beta doesn't work like a float valve on any other motorcycle and seal off the bowl (I have replaced the valve and adjusted the float level to spec).
Is my only option to replace the solenoid or can it be repaired?
OK, back to the fuel solenoid. Riding last night and noticed a constant drip from the float bowl overflow when I stopped the bike and had it on the kickstand. Wouldn't stop even with the solenoid on "Auto" and the engine off. I drained the float bowl, and it apparently filled the bowl right back up and it started leaking again. Still leaking today. Anyone else have problems with the solenoid either not closing or a seal leaking, etc?
My 4 yr old grand daughter asked if I could ride on a piece of culvert laying over by the fence. Told her to help me move it and set it up as a balance beam and crossing obstacle and we'd try it out tomorrow night. She's pretty good operating the front end loader and grapple on the tractor so helped me move it and a couple of stabilizing railway ties into position. Should be fun!
I out together a new rock obstacle with my tractor yesterday and had a chance to try it out on my EVO and XTrainer this evening. Rock (which are rare around here) is about 5 feet long, and I pitched it such that it is around 4 feet high. Just enough that I don't go over the handlebars when coming down it. Will give me a great obstacle to try different methods coming up.
300 4T is my first trials bike. Have nothing to compare it to, other than many decades of dirt bikes. Love mine. Very confidence inspiring to try things I'd never think to attempt on another bike. Also, if I want to ride it at home, it is so quiet the neighbors never even take notice that I'm riding it.
I'm at sea level, and mine had serious flameout/decel popping (PO rode at 10,000+ feet with stock jetting).
I went with a 132.5 main and 25 pilot, dropped the clip one slot (second slot from top) and changed to the silver spring. Solved all of my issues. Starts easy, purrs like a kitten, no decel pop or flameouts, good low end grunt.
Key thing to keep in mind is speed. If you're simply trail riding, fine. If you're riding fast, trials bikes don't really have the brakes or suspension like a woods bike would have. Very small rotors, less stopping power, higher wear on the brakes. Small fork tubes, lighter suspension components, a lot of bottoming on the suspension. All by design for trials purposes.
I just need something that reminds me which switch is the map switch vs the headlight switch. . . I ended up writing an M on one and an L on the other with a metallic sharpie . . .
P.S. Beta could just make a lot of people really happy by putting some Tech forks and a Reiger on the bike. Hell, they could split those changes over 2 model years! Or even three, they could do one year with one Tech fork leg and one Paoli.
Heck, Beta could make a lot of people really happy if they'd just put a rear fender on that didn't snap off so easy and then cost $160 to replace it! And maybe an intake hose (carb to engine) 1/2" longer that didn't come loose so easy. Other than that, perfectly happy with my 16 EVO 4t.
I had a 130 main so went to 25 and 130. Clip is at 4th position. Spring looks silver. What spring is OEM? What is the blue spring for? It is lighter for quicker opening? I have ridden at sea level and 5500 feet and ti seem sOK
Both springs came with my bike. From the research I've done, blue spring at elevations > 5,000 ft, silver spring at elevations < 5,000 ft.
I have been through the carb and tried different jetting plus have the adjuster screw. Initially, I had to run a rich idle to prevent bogging. Once I raised the needle, the bog tendency went away so I leaned out the idle. I'm now running a 22.5 pilot and since the symptom is lean will go up one size to see if improves.
I'm at sea level on the gulf coast. My bike was super lean when I bought it. PO lived in Colorado Springs and had it set up for riding 10-13,000 feet. Here are the changes I made to get it to run well at sea level:
Rejetted carb 25 pilot, 132.5 main (from 27.5/120)
If you decide to do this and need any help (pics and step-by-step), let me know. I just did all of this on my 4T and documented and took pictures of everything since I was able to find very little on the web regarding how to. It's not hard to do, but it seems that for every thing you want to do, there are 5 additional thing you have to do to get at what you're wanting to do.
Securing a trials bike
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Right on queue . . .