than that would be either an annual family reunion with much and "Hey ya'll watch this!" being the phrase of choice for the day.
or the usual antics of teenage children. (Of which they pay for repairs)
Ah herd dat.
Now you guys know why, when the Govenor of Texas, Rick Perry, threatened to have Texas secede from the Union, the rest of the States started passing around the hat to help with their moving expenses.....
Hey Copey, see ya at the Central Regional Championships!
Check the adjuster on your clutch lever, my bruv's was wound to far in and it was not letting the piston come fully out against the circlip, this then means that the o-ring could be sitting the wrong side of the resevoir hole.?????????
Actually, the shaft will bottom out before the o-ring goes in that far. An adjuster in too far will cause (1) gradual lessening of the effective throw of the lever and (2) possibly brakes locking up (especially on the rear brake system when there is heat in the caliper from severe braking).
I have just replaced my clutch resovior with a brand new rebuild kit,
i replaced every thing as it came off but its still leaking from the leaver end of the clutch,,
Any Ideas anyone?
The bike is a gas gas 250 pro 07
Cheers Ian
Ian,
The only thing I can think of that would cause the leak at that area is a damaged o-ring. On the M/C piston "shaft" there is the seal at the front and an o-ring at the back, which seals the non-pressure area where the circlip is. I'd carefully take the internals out and see if there may be a small scratch at the beginning of the M/C bore (maybe caused during installation) that may have caused the o-ring failure. Sometimes it can be carefully buffed out to at least cut down the sharp, upraised part.
I have bought a Gas Gas EC 300 year 2000 and am in the process of getting it back a fit for use. I am new to mechanics and need help with the rear brake that i have just serviced. There are two thin metal plates. Each a different shape, that somehow sit on the bake of the brake pads. I cant see how they should be refitted in order to replace the pads. Can someone help explain / send a picture or tell me where i can get hold of a workshop type manual that would have a diagram to assist. Any help for a newbie would be much appreciated. ta. Also are there any Gas Gas riders in the surrey / sussex / hants area that would like to meet for green laning. ??
Your best bet is probably to contact your local dealer, who should be able to help you. This forum is generally devoted to Trials models. Usually the thin, stainless steel plates are backing for the pads as a brake puck heat shield/anti-vibration measure.
A couple of quick photos of it in it's present condition. As I say, it's a runner not a poser so it has it's share of scrapes and dings, and it sure is fun to ride.
A couple of quick photos of it in it's present condition. As I say, it's a runner not a poser so it has it's share of scrapes and dings, and it sure is fun to ride.
Just returned from a walking holiday in the swiss alps and my missus kept saying "all this scenery and you're just commenting on awesome trials sections?"
Yep. It is an obsession and I'm going on four decades of the "illness". It's easy to think you are the only one who does it because no one talks about it much. I can vouch that it's becomes worse the more Trials one sets up. Probably the reason is that we use natural terrain as our "racetrack", which, of course, is all around us and I would also guess that roadracers drive cars on the street and think of entrance speeds, apexes, braking points etc. I know when I was dragracing, stoplights made my heart beat a little faster..........
I think the "cure" is to just get out and ride more.......
Well I've done it and got the "T" shirt lol and bruisers,graizesand the aches are starting already but I'm still smiling about the experience. The trial was at Wosborough and run by Barnsley trial club, I found the organisers and fellow competitors freindly and willing to help,or offer advice. Managed to complete all 40 sections, albeit in a strange order, Made a hash of a few, crashed on others and took a few of 5's in the first 2 laps, Laps 3+4 were better and 5's turned into 3's then 2's+1's but not many. Although I did manage to clean section 1, 4 times but I think every one might have. So the story so far is I've ridden the Gas Gas 4 times done 1 trial (Yellow routes) and I'm hooked on it. Thanks to all the organisers and observers for their help and encouragement. Phil
Good for you!
Chances are that you'll get as obsessed as the rest of us now. There's something unusual about this sport, not sure what it is, but it can end up being a life-long pursuit, or at least 38 years so far in my case. The riding is fun and challenging of course, the bikes are cool, but I really think it's the people you meet at a Trial. Trials riders seem to have a slightly different psychological profile than competitors in all the other forms of motorsports that I've been involved in. They can be just as serious and competition-minded, but it's almost like we're all on the same team and banded together to solve a common problem, which, in a way, I guess we are as far as a section is concerned. I would expect you to have more fun as time goes on and you probably make some friends you will have for the rest of your life.
There as some drawbacks and I must warn you, however, that now, when driving in the countryside, you will never, ever, see it the same way again. You will start to see each ravine, log, bunch of rocks, creekbeds etc as "Awwww, cool. I bet I could make a neat section there.....". I know I'm not the only one who still does that.........
Good answer! I totally agree with the visualisation thing - you've got to build it in your head before you can build it for real. True in many walks of life I reckon!
I've always had a bit of a soft spot for the TY monos. They were THE bike to have round here when I was 18 or so, back in the day. I never rode one then but they seemed a world apart from my TY175 or Italjet twinshocks. I've ridden one recently though and I think I preferred the feel of it in some ways to my friend's GG250Pro. The only problem with it was we just couldn't get it to run right - rattling like mad on the over-run and not wanting to rev out at all. Had to be a carb issue I think but we tried changing just about everything, including a new OKO, crankcase seals, cleaning out and re-packing the whole exhaust, timing, coils, spark plugs and nothing we did seemed to have the slightest effect on it which makes you think there must be some other fundamental thing going on. I haven't seen friend or bike for a while now so I don't know if it's been resolved but I suspect not. Do I remember from an old thread that you've done a fair bit of head work to get the 350 going well? Or was that someone else?
The key to good running on the 85/86 TY350's was a change in the combustion chamber design (very much like the early Honda CR500's-great engine, but poor execution of the head design). The trapezoidal combustion chamber was the rage at the time and, although workable, it was not as effecient as the later hemi, and when matched with an overly wide squish clearance in the 350's (usually measuring 2.5mm on up on the TY's I've checked- 1mm would be the design target) it produced a rattling, wheezing response-especially when the engine got hot. The TY 250's of the era were a better running engine (affected to a lesser degree by design parameters), but we got the 350 here in the U.S. almost exclusively. I'm guessing that the marketing department at Yamaha felt that the "small" engine wouldn't sell well here in the land of "too much is just right". It would seem that the theory still is in effect to a degree, with the larger 280/300 engines popular here and the 250's seem to be more popular in the rest of the world. The 250's are making a small comeback in the U.S. as newer riders have a chance to ride the bike and find that the power is more than adequate. Maybe we will get fewer "how can I soften my bike's response" questions... For the higher altitudes, the 280/300's still make good sense.
I machined the TY head to a hemi configuration and use a .003" copper head gasket with the squish set to .039". Never a rattle or signs of overheating and the throttle response is like a newer type engine.
Looks good, Jon. Have the mods you've mentioned been generally positive and improved things? Or have they been interesting exercises but that's all?
Oh and can we see some pics of the whole bike?
Actually, I can't think of any modification on the bike that didn't provide the improvement I was looking for. I do, however, spend a lot of mental time/visualization on the mods before fabricating them so the actual building is fairly easy. I just manipulate the material I'm using to fit the mental image, kinda weird I know, but I doubt I'm alone in this.
I'll take some photos when I get it back together. It's not a Concours show piece, but is designed for hard riding. I guess that after riding it for 24 years, the changes now and then make it still fun to use.
since the A/C Mono forum has gone a little silent, I thought I'd throw something in for us to chew on. This 85' TY350 has been in the family since we bought it new and I like to ride it at our Vintage events in Non-Comp, just-for-fun class.
It has become a test mule for my wild-hair, "hmmm, what if we did that?" brainfart projects and has been modified so many times it starts to whimper when I walk in the shop door. Photos are of a couple of the latest changes:
I revalved a Works Performance shock, added a steel-braided line and a adjustable remote reservoir.
The intake is a one-piece reedcage/manifold I made several decades ago and uses early CR125 dual-stage reeds.
The internally modified Mikuni flatslide 26mm has a machined sleeve to extend the spigot.
Anybody else out there doing weird things to TY Monos?
Just thought i'd say that my bike is back together. Apparently a bearing had collapsed on the main gear shaft. It got caught up in the gears, ruined the shaft and a couple of gears. Haven't got the bike back yet and don't know what the damage to my bank account will be but i have a feeling it's gonna be expensive. The engine had to be stripped (obviously) and the parts replaced. I'll be glad when i start it up and it doesn't crunch!!
You are probably lucky you didn't break the centercase when the chain packed in. The forces involved in a gearbox from a sudden lockup of the countershaft are absolutely huge, especially in a Trials engine with the very large inertial energy stored in the big, heavy flywheels we use.
As a somewhat related aside, and in the area of TMI regarding chains and sprockets, because we use chain tensioners on our bikes, we almost never run into a fairly common problem with MX bikes, that being, centercases splitting at the countershaft case bosses because the chain was not allowed enough slack. Sometimes, if the rider was fortunate, the chain would pull apart before the cases split, so I would always look for the telltale signs of stretch fatigue on the links for a diagnosis. MX riders, like Trials riders, usually adjust the chain with the bike up on a support with the swingarm below "level" and sometimes forget that the rear axle pivots, not in a circular arc (the pivot center is the swingarm shaft center, not the front sprocket center), but a parabolic arc which causes the chain to tighten tension at the "level" point. Hmmm, I guess the point of this rambling is to offer that it is better to error on the side of a little too loose than a little too tight when making chain adjustments.
Hi guys Ive just stripped the forks down on a mates Txt 280 Edition 2002 because the adjusters were seized and there was hardly any travel on the forks. Does any one know what the free length of the springs are and have a exploded drawing of the forks. Thanks in advance.
i broke the breather nipple on my 05 gasser in the same way yours has gone , i drilled the hole out a bit and threaded a grease nipple in, put the breather pipe on there, seems to work okay
A 90 degree nipple should work fine, provided you removed the spring/ball one-way valve where the gun tip would ordinarily attach. Otherwise, you are running a "non breathing" breather and this could cause problems up the road, especially with the seals.
Whats the best oil to put on a 'TWIN AIR' air filter, i used some k&n oil that i had lying around but it seems very thick when on the filter
More than likely, the K&N filter oil you used (probably red in color) was for a different type filter element (a trapped-layer gause type that requires a little different flow agent and final viscosity). I'd use a filter oil that is specific for "foam type filters".
also, the bearings are well and truly stuck in the dog bones, is it possible to buy the dog bones complete with the bearings? is it alot more money?
thanks for the help people.
Tom
Not sure the difference buying the dogbone complete, but they are not difficult to press in and out using long sockets, one to fit the outer diameter of the bearing outer race and a larger one to hold the dogbone end and press the bearing into.
Also be sure to check the bearing in the lower part of the swingarm, it's often forgotten. Don't try to hammer it out from one side, there are two "tophat" bushings that fit in either side. Use a sharp edge punch to catch one in the center of the swingarm bore and drive it out. Look inside the swingarm bushings and you'll see a dividing line in the center (that's where the "top" of the hats meet), that's where you need to catch the end of the bushing opposite you and slowly drive it out the other side.
would i be correct in saying there is less chain, smaller sprocket.
Are there any disadvantages
The 9T, 520 chain, countershaft sprocket tends to be hard on the chain (tooth/bushing engagement is fairly brutal at that small diameter) and you would more than likely experience accelerated chain wear. Most of my buddies with 4RT's have opted for a 10/44 combination and tell me that some of them have even used rear sprockets from the smaller displacement GG Pro's (44T is standard on some the smaller displacement Pros and reportedly also fit the Montesa hub) when their dealers ran out of them. They say the 10/44 combo tightens up the gear ratios nicely, allows less clutch work in slow section areas and they can use a higher gear for climbs.
A new piston and rings yes, but not a new barrel. It can be re-plated to match your new piston and I would recommend this. Cost is about 180 quid (http://www.langcourt.com/index.htm)
If you are real unlucky, the crank and mains may need doing also.....
Usually the only thing that wears on a cylinder is the bore plating, so an exchange is the best bet.
Before you put everything together, you might do some serious "failure analysis" (an unfortunate, but necessary proceedure from my old dragracing days....) and find the cause of the unusual wear that produced your symptoms. Look carefully in the bell of the carb and the intake boot and if you have deposits of fine grit, the air filter and/or airbox is causing dirt to enter the cylinder. I would always advise that you should never "fix" anything until you have determined the cause of the failure.
As the Pro engine has the main bearings lubed by the gearbox fluid, grit will not usually cause them problems (provided the engine has had regular maintenance) but you might look carefully at the rod big-end for ANY straight up/down clearance (wobble and side-to-side clearance is not unusual). You might also measure the ring end-gap as that will be a direct indication of the amount of wear. Standard assembly tolerance is to have 0.1mm per inch of bore diameter, so you can compare what you find to what the ring started at.
Prices seem reasonable for new carbs. Are there any markings I can note on the carb and or jets?
Is there any benefit, for a new rider, in reducing the carb size to inprove low end performance?
Sorry for all the questions, but as you can gather I'm new to trials.
Gordon
Gordon,
The 26PHBL will work fine for a new rider with your bike and you would probably have some difficulty, as a new Trials rider, sorting out a smaller carb and , in fact, the throttle response would be quicker (not good for beginners).
Get the stock type carb and we can help you get it set up and then give you some pointers as to how to soften the engines response so you can have an easier start in the learning process. The low-end rsponse possible with this bike is more than you need at the beginning (and will probably be too much, which is why you may want to tone it down).
"Sorry for all the questions"......not to worry, that's what this forum is mostly about.
Chances are yes you cut toomuch out. try ,http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Electrics/wiring-kokusan-96-2000.html . I can`t quite remember but it seems there was a spot in the harness that three yellow wires had to stay attached, maybe someone else will help?
I agree, the wiring diagram is a good place to start.
You'll notice that there are actually two seperate power generating systems, one dedicated to the CDI ignition and the other to power the lights, horn and fan (there are different generating coils in the stator for ignition and accessories and they are not interconnected, although most riders often think there is only one power source). Depending on where you cut the wires, you may have cut the power to the fan (the red wire in the 99/2000 diagram, but often it is yellow to the fan). I'd trace down the harness and you may want to take off the "extra" stuff you do not need while you are at it. You WILL want to install a killswitch in the process, as you have probably also cut the killswitch wire housed in the handlebar switch assembly.
back home and unpacked. Here's photos of my Saturday section 2 and Sunday section 1 (the mudhole/cow pie section). Good warmup sections with mostly cleans (if you could say that about the mudhole).
The cow pie section on Sunday was at the only creek crossing/watering hole through the moors the cows liked so I bravely battled about 50 cows to keep control of the section in the hours between the first and second loops. The calves found that section tape was a wonderful dessert.
A quick post from Sante Fe, New Mexico on the way back home from the Ute Cup. It was, in a word, great!
They have gone back to the old format. Intermediate/Advanced level sections so the Trial is geared for the average Intermediate rider, long loop (22 miles on Saturday, close to that Sunday) and ride the same sections twice (two loops each day). 20 sections on Saturday and I think 16 on Sunday. I probably had 20+ riders tell me how much fun they were having. More to come later....must....sleep.....now..........
Strange that in this doc file they only speaks of an airspace of 160mm, while in the manual of the TXT Pro '07 it says 180mm for 300/280/250 and 160mm for 125/200.
Also point 3 in this doc file says: 'With the suspension compressed to its maximum and verifying that there is no air remaining in the system, fill the suspension with oil,
leaving an empty space of 160 mm +/- 2 mm.
So do I need to compress the fork before measuring this airspace? How to do this? It looks complicated to push in the fork completely and then do the measuring and filling....
And what is the correct airspace then?
I think you may be confusing "airspace" with "oil level" and although they may look the same, they are somewhat different measurements and related.
"Airspace" is the space created at the top inside of the fork tube based on the level of the oil in the fork, completely assembled, at full extension.
"Oil level" is the level of the fork oil from the top of the tube, spring removed, all air bled out of the cartridge and the fork tube completely collapsed into the lower leg. Oil level is how you determine the airspace in the assembled fork. How much volume the spring takes up when added to the fork internals will also have an effect on the amount of airspace in the assembled fork.
As far as I know, the aluminum Marzocchi forks are set at an oil level of 160mm and the steel tube Marzocchi's are set at 180mm.
and "Hey ya'll watch this!" being the phrase of choice for the day.
There's something unusual about this sport, not sure what it is, but it can end up being a life-long pursuit, or at least 38 years so far in my case. The riding is fun and challenging of course, the bikes are cool, but I really think it's the people you meet at a Trial. Trials riders seem to have a slightly different psychological profile than competitors in all the other forms of motorsports that I've been involved in. They can be just as serious and competition-minded, but it's almost like we're all on the same team and banded together to solve a common problem, which, in a way, I guess we are as far as a section is concerned. I would expect you to have more fun as time goes on and you probably make some friends you will have for the rest of your life.
Ty350
in Aircooled Monoshocks
Posted
It does and it works quite well. The Talon uses the early AJP pads and is quite simple in operation.
Jon