Well tried your idea first. Seems that I didn't have enough oil in the tubes (added several cc's to bring it up to the 125mm below top). Put a 5mm or so washer in each tube and brought the level up. Seems to be working fine. Will have to do the ole wheelie over a log and come down fairly hard to see if it is truly fixed. Stayed with the ATF that I had in the tubes (I'm about 160# so don't need to much dampening).
Don't have a Trial for a couple of weeks so have plenty of time to test it.
Alan
Alan,
The TY has what's known as "damper rod" type forks and work well with 15/20 weight fork oil. The ATF you are using would be more suited for a cartridge type fork, like on the modern bikes, during warm weather or a heavier rider. ATF is about 7.5 weight and at 160 lbs, you should probably be running 15 weight, minimum, for them to work well.
The combination of low oil level and too light fluid could be the cause of your problem.
Were you running the PHBH26 on your 84 mono? Was it a direct fit? Any clearance issues with the frame etc......I see that it's a tight fit under the frame where the carb sits.
I may be interested in it........
I have a Mikuni VM26 on the 85' TY350 now, never ran a PHBL but I would imagine it would work well. The VM fits right up with no problems and is often used on the older bikes, like the Bultaco Sherpa-T. The "choke" lever and fuel spigot is on the left side, but it's easy to run the line to the tank and by bending the lever down a little bit, it's easy to use. They are fairly easy to obtain and give better response and are easy to tune as parts are easy to come by. I've also got a Mikuni flatslide 26mm that I've modified for a spigot mount and may try that just for fun.
I've got a bad case of the "Hmmm, I wonder if that would work" disease and often try things to satisfy my mechanical curosity, which up to this point has been insatiable, but then again, it's also been productive and fun.
One bearing question: on the flywheel side the bearing is supposed to be lubricated by oil through a "passsage", but the bearing and seal almost blocked that passage. Are there something to be aware of here?
-Jan
As long as there is a passageway, you should be fine. Ball bearings need very little oil (think about ones that only use what oil is in the premix) but they do not react well to contaminates. Bush type bearings (like in some four-strokes) tolerate contaminates to a greater degree as they embed in the bearing shell coating, but they require oil pressure to function.
This is why it's important to keep the transmission oil in the Pro clean and fresh by changing it often.
I actually thought the thought last night, but couldn`t find a suitable bolt.
Whats the clue about cutting the hex and make a slot for a screwdriver? Doesnt a spanner do the job?
-JAn
Jan,
The slotted end allows you to use a screwdriver to tighten/loosen it if necessary. Cutting the head off allows the tool to be used to install the swingarm shaft as, when sliding it back in, it's sometimes difficult to get the end of the shaft to align perfectly with the hole on the right side of the frame. The bolt helps to align it and also gives good leverage if you need to pull the shaft end around to get it to fit through the frame hole.
Darrel, a love of screwed up english is one thing that Gary Jackson and I shared. Gary's favorite was at 99 TdN in Luxemburg, the riders had to ride through the town to get to the practice area. Well some of the riders were doin' wheelies to the delight of the townspeople. The police got involved and asked the organisers to warn the riders, so they came and spoke with all the team managers and asked us to tell our riders: "Please do not to make the clown in the city".
We understood perfectly.
I was especially fond of the manual for my 60's CL72 Honda Scrambler. The two full pages describing how sparkplugs are made, including the chemical formula for the ceramic core was fascinating to a gearhead like myself. I remember the very long paragraph describing the construction and ergonomic placement of the handlebars that waxed eloquently on how they had such a positive effect on the happiness of the user and ended with the statement "This could be said to symbolize Honda's kindness".....
I have to admit, I did spend many happy hours on that bike.
Thanks for the info. I think its a combination of both as I use different carbs for events (Amal pre 65 Scottish, Kiehn rest of time) Definatly uses fewer plugs on the Kiehn than Amal, but still getting the jetting right so it might improve. I can feel when the plug is going "off" about 5 mins before it expires. I use a foam air filter and getting the same amount of oil through it consistently probably doesnt help.
Ross
The red or green color in the filter oil is a dye to tell you if the whole filter is saturated. You can use a large plastic bag to knead the filter in the oil (don't skimp on oil, you can pour the excess back in the bottle when you use a bag), but the key is to blot out all the excess filter oil with paper towels afterward. Knead the filter in the towels until there are no spotty deposits of oil (and the color is consistant throughout) and you're set. Be sure to squish the filter carefully with your fingers when kneading it and never pull on it or that may weaken the seams.
As to the Iridium plugs, I'm looking for one for my friend's Saracen, which takes a 3/8th" thread depth so I think it's a "BPR5SIX" (a 1/2" depth would be a "BPR5HIX".
I like the EIX plug as it seems to allow a little "wiggle room" in jetting. I went to the Ute Cup in Colorado last year (same plug still in the bike now) and dropped the main jet size 2 down, but the altitude ranges over several thousand feet in the loop, along with huge changes in temperature and humidity but the bike ran spot on all the time and didn't miss a beat even under the severe conditions that altered jetting requirements.
Any way of telling if its a rich mixture, or burning oil, thats killing plugs ?
Stork brings up a lot of valid points and I agree that, if everything else is in good shape, any "correct" plug will perform well. I also think that, with the marginal nature of most bike CDI systems that entended gaps have a very limited return in performance. I've generally found that the early systems, like the MotoPlat, do better with a .5mm plug gap and the newer types work well with .6mm.
Although, to do a proper plug check, you'll need to know under what conditions the engine was operating at the time it was shut down, the oil fouled plug will tend to have a glossier finish to the deposits and the over-rich mixture may have a flatter finish and darker color, but as I said, engine operating condition at time of shutdown has an effect and sometimes it's difficult to tell the oil from the fuel fouling.
Different fuels will have a different color deposit to the porcelian, some race fuels will have a gunmetal grey and some will have a golden tan to them. Plug condition is an indicator and can give you a direction to go, but other tests, like compression pressure or ring end-gap are helpful too. Sometimes it's not really the plug's fault as poor ground/connections in the CDI or a malfunctioning plug cap/wire can be the culprit.
I am not neccessarily cheap, just pragmatic. And if it ain't broke, well? Oh yes, it would be out at the first sign of problems, but it just has not been the case. Not unlike Jon, it is somewhat interisting to see just what these things will do.
Of course, over time one learns to help prevent fouling by getting some heat in the motor, giving them a good run and revving to keep the motor cleaned out which helps prevent these issues on any plug. Those that do not, will not!
I could ramble on about the materials and specs, but basically within the NGK range of standard ES, platinum VX and irridium IEX range the premium materials have better electrical properties and the smaller electrodes offer less "shielding" to the mixture they are bound to ignite. In other words, the more massive electrodes actually act as a shield against the flow of the mixture and the spark wanders on the broad surfaces as compared to the smaller and more pinpoint (and open to the mix) electrodes.
I have never considered electrode wear to be an issue, under proper conditions they could well outlast the motor!
Running the gap! Well that is another story and theory in itself! All I will tell you is that your average motorcycle ignition has no excess of electrical power to run things, which is why many mfg recommendations are limited to 0.5 gap settings to run reliably.
Taking advantage of the better electrical properties of the modern plugs may let you open that up a bit, which simply provides better spark and ignition. If you can reliably open up that 0.5 gap to say 0.6, what is your percentage difference in flamefront propagation?
Looking up, 20%, looking down,maybe 15%. If the ignition system will support the added gap, the motor will run cleaner off the bottom and start easier. If it will not, it may cause other problems such as hard starting and poor response under high load conditions.
Mark,
I haven't tried the extended gap as yet, wanting to keep the variables down while I'm "testing" the EIX, but it rated as a "wide gap" plug. The marking is "BPR5EIX-11" and the "-11" after the spec.'s is for an installed gap of 1.1mm or .044".
Jon,
"If it ain't broke, let's mess with it some more!"
I am not replacing the bearings as they seem to be Ok. "Just" the seals.
Im beginning to wonder if I have got the wrong size as they refuse to go in. I`d never thought this shold be so difficult.. :-(
-Jan
It's about 5:30pm here.
Sorry, Jan, I misunderstood. Yea, you might want to check the parts number to be sure. As I remember, you have an 04" 300 and I've got the inner seals as #ME250112008 and the outer alternator seal as #MT280212009.
What I've done with seals is to get a long socket that just fits inside the seal and use a 10" extention in the socket so that, with the added length and leverage, it's a lot easier to keep the socket square to the bore when tapping it in.
Never understand this keeping the same plug for years thing.
Regular changing of this cheap item keeps the spark spot on and the bike running sweet. just like a clean carb and filter for sure?
Well, I agree and feel the same way about regular maintenance and replacing parts before they wear out. I used to replace the plug before every meet in my twinshock days, but I wanted to get an idea of an approximate lifespan for the EIX plug by checking for tip erosion, which has been approximately .001" so far (checked with wire, not flat gauges, to be accurate). I ran a new plug for several rides just to compare performance/starting with the "old" one and used a section where you need to lug the engine often and could find no difference, so the old one went back in for further testing. I'll probably change out the old plug soon just for the heck of it, but it has proven remarkably reliable.
What got me to try the Iridium plug some time ago was my 02' Chevy S10 Blazer that comes with Iridium plugs that are factory rated as good for 100,000 miles (which I found hard to believe at first), and they have more than proved themselves. So, I guess, to answer the question "are they worth it?", my experience dictates, at least for me, "yes".
Engine splitted and the old crank seals are out. At least the left one seems very bad so I guess it was on time to replace them.
But how the h***** get the new ones in place?? I have tried to drive them in using a socket, but they refuse to go straight in. I have also cooled the seals in the fridge for a couple of hours. Any Ideas?
-Jan
Jan,
I usually put the bearings in a sealed plastic bag in the freezer for a while, add a little anti-seize on the bearing bore of the case and then lightly tap the bearing in about halfway with a smalll brass hammer and use a press to finish/seat it in the bore. I have a press with special attachments to push the bearing in square but I like to tap the bearing about halfway in with the hammer as it's easy to check that it's going in straight and easy to correct any misalignment as you go.
Love them old bikes, I think I saw a TL 250 in the mix.
Yes, it was a great turnout for the first one. The TL250 guy is going to sell the TL and drag out his old Bultaco from the garage. The interest has brought out a lot of old bikes that were languishing in the dark corners (which was my intent in the first place as I hate to see the old iron rusting away- I've got this "thing" about machinery and don't like to see it go to waste).
It's amazing how many riders had one or two old bikes hidden away.
Copemech & Nigel Dabster is VX a brand of plug??? or is it a number for a Champion or other brand? The NGK i have been running is BP5ES. That is what is recommended for conditions here in Oz!
Thanks
Well, poop.
The chart I tried to post was too small to read well, but I often use Sparkplugs.Com as a quick reference and their subsite at http://sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp has a lot of good reference charts including the NGK codes. "VX" is for high-performance platinum as you'll see in the code chart.
You are kidding me... i can pick up an Iridum plug for 2-2.5 times the price of a std! I find they have a more reliable spark at low revs and last well over a year. Yes there is a bunch of cool technolagy inside e'm.
That's been my experience with the NGK BPR5EIX plug. I've had one in my 280 Pro for over a year and now and then I feel guilty and pull it out for a look and gap check, but it's been .024" each time. From what I've found, they have a slightly extended heat range, take less voltage to fire and really resist fouling under severe circumstances (I've never had a misfire or a problem with starting, even after crashing the bike and flopping on me bum, which happens all too often). They also make the 05" 300 Pro a cinch to start easily. They do cost a couple times the standard ES plug, but have proved, for me, to be a bargain in the long run.
I'm doing a restoration for a friend on a Sachs powered Saracen and got him a whole new MZB ign system and they specify that an EIX plug is the best to use.
I finally have begun the work to change the crank seals on my 04 300 pro.
I have now stripped down the engine ready to remove from the frame. Only thing left is to drive out the swing arm pivot shaft. Any ideas on how to do this without damaging any threads? Problem seems to be that the shaft is hollow and the hole in the frame is just as big as the hole in the shaft. There is no place to tap on the shaft.
And yes. I have loosened the two allen bolts at the rear end of the motor
Thanks
-Jan
Jan,
I got a bolt about 15+cm long with the same thread as the axle, cut off the hex and and cut a slot on the non-threaded end so I could attach a screwdriver if necessary. The device can be screwed in to the axle and lightly tapped to drive it out. It also makes re-installing the axle much easier as you have some leverage to get it to align with the hole on the right side. With the engine back in the frame, be sure to not tighten any engine mounts until you get the axle back in.
I cant figure out how to remove the fork oil seal retaining circlips on my 1999 TXT 270
I have watched the video for later models that have wire circlips, but mine have flat ones ( like the ones that have a loop on each end, but without the loops )
They need to be closed up to get them out but how !!!!!!
Please help
I use a stout pick to pull one of the ends outward enough to get another pick in between the clip and the collar, they come out easily after that. Be careful to retain control of the clip as they can spring out rather forcefully.
Join together is soft setting, pulled apart high setting...
you rellay have to screem the s##t out of the bike to notice any real diffeacne...
From what I understand, the curve differential starts at about 2500 RPM. If you want, ask your dealer for part #BT280634007 and the "mode switch" just plugs in to the black/orange wires.
I've alwasy run my bikes at 50:1 and never had any engine problems. Never had to replace/replate anything.
I think that's fine. I see that on the GasGas Spain website they usually recommend a "2%" mix, which is, of course, a 50:1 ratio. With the new full-synthetics that burn much cleaner (not a "synthetic blend" type) than the mineral bases, a rider has a lot more leeway to run whatever mix ratio that they are comfortable with. I've rarely seen an engine damaged by more than the recommended ratio of the correct oil. Maybe a little more carbon buildup or ooze, but not actual damage.
Looks like its 100:1 then and best of luck but i will stick with my 35:1 ,the 16000rpm relates to my race bikes and not my 350 gas gas
Generally speaking, most of us tend to use a full-synthetic premix oil at around the 80:1 ratio (I use 70:1 in my Pro 280 and 50:1 in my air-cooled 85" TY350 Mono) due to the unusual demands we put on the engines (compared to other forms of competition). Richer oil mixtures tend to cause carbon buildup in the front of the headpipe and sometimes oil buildup in the mid and final mufflers due to the on/off/trailing throttle applications (as well as a concern for the possibility of fuel/oil fouling plug problems) and the heat/cool cycles normal in Trials use. Trials carbs (any carbs for that matter) have a hard time providing effective metering in the off-idle area (where the multiple "circuits" overlap--idle/fuel mixture, pilot, slide cutaway, needle profile/height) where we spend most of our time, so our engines tend towards the rich end of the carburation spectrum. The "benefit" (if you could call it that) of this rich mixture and the low/staggered RPM range is that we don't need to demand as much from our premix ratios, hense the unusually low ratios.
I'm assuming your bike is a mid-90's JT35 model, for which the factory recommendation was a 80:1 premix ratio. I think you should run whatever ratio you are comfortable with (I'm more comfortable with the "richer" 70:1 ratio myself), I just thought it might be helpful if you had an idea of why other riders opt for the seeming insane lean ratios. I understand how you feel as I come from a background of building high-performance race engines (including TZ, RS, Formula-S etc roadracers) and I thought these guys were nuts to run those ratios, but from my experience in Trials since 1971, engine failure/damage from a lean premix oil ratio cause is extremely rare (I actually can't think of one). They almost always are caused by an "outside" condition such as an airfilter installed incorrectly, low-octane fuel or incorrect jetting.
Its Basic Physics. "Power" is a derived function. cannot really exist without torque or revs in the case of an IC engine.
Wayne...
True, "power" ("horsepower" in some measurements) is a function of torque AND rpm. You can have a measurement of "torque" when trying to unscrew a peanut butter jar lid, as torque may or may not result in motion ("power" has a time/motion element involved and simple "torque" does not).
When you look at a HP/Torque/RPM graph, where you see the torque curve peak is where the intake/exhaust system is losing it's ability to fill/evacuate the cylinder effectively.
Say, would you like to trade that split bearing puller for another 3 jaw?? lol!
Geez, I got to admit, that's a wonderful offer, but that's my favorite puller (o.k., maybe my favorite extra-large one) and I've got somewhat attached to it.......
Very handy tool, if you have clearance to get it on the bearing, it WILL take it off. That one's a large size but it still can be used to take off small bearings. They also last forever, that one's probably 45 years old and has taken crank dampers off blown fuel Hemi's and steering stem bearings off a GasGas tripleclamp.
Evans Waterless coolant is a great one. Special mix with no water or glycol base in it, boils at a higher temp, has excellent wetting and spot boiling performance and will not cause galvanic corrosion with the Magnesium. KTM used Magnesium clutch covers/ water pump case from '85-'89 in their larger bore 2T (495, 500, 550 cc) and their are lots of stories of guys pulling the water pump to find no bearing race left.....Any coolant with glycol will promote the galvanic corrosion process and make the case fail faster.
I spoke with the race parts supplier about the Evans coolant when I got my race fuel and he said all the hard-core racers absolutely swear by it and it's the best stuff available for high-performance and HD applications. He couldn't supply me at this time as another individual had the franchise, but he was going to see if he could work with the company to carry it in our area and let me know. I could probably order some over the Evans website but I like to support the local suppliers so I'll give him some time to see what he can do.
I used a 3 leg puller with a chain clamped round it, but it is ovbious that they flex somewhat and I guess the split bearing pullers don't...
Steve
To illustrate what they are talking about (at least what I think they mean) to those that may not be sure what the tools are, here's a photo of the three-jaw gear puller on the left and a bearing separater on the right. As you mentioned, the bearing separater will not flex. Bolts are attached to it and a screw-type rod presses on the center of the shaft the bearing is on to pull the bearing out. Often you won't need the attachments for the bearing tool as it wedges behind the bearing and pushes the bearing out when the side bolts are tightened.
Jon
Forgot to mention, the three-jaw gear puller will flex less if all the bolts holding it together are tightened up after it is on the bearing/gear, otherwise the tool can be pretty floppy to work with. Afterwards loosen all the bolts to release the bearing/gear.
Doesn't make sense but they will start better hot if you put a richer pilot jet in. I also find I have to choke mine when hot fairly often, usually after it's hot and I shut it off for a few minutes, say to walk a section before I ride it. If you give it 3 good hard kicks and it won't start, try choking it.
Craig
Craig,
I've got a richer #38 pilot in mine (and have a knurled knob on my fuel screw so I take a second to reset it before each ride for best throttle response) and still have found, like you, that after walking the section, if it does not start first kick, the choke will fire it up every time in one or two kicks. I've heard of this situation enough times before that it seems to be a quirk of some Pros, but easily worked around.
On the other's advice about "stabbing" at the kickstart, just make sure you lock up the racheting mechanism first, or you run the risk of eventually damaging the idler gear and/or kickstart shaft teeth.
Ty250 Fork Spacers?
in Yamaha
Posted
Alan,
The TY has what's known as "damper rod" type forks and work well with 15/20 weight fork oil. The ATF you are using would be more suited for a cartridge type fork, like on the modern bikes, during warm weather or a heavier rider. ATF is about 7.5 weight and at 160 lbs, you should probably be running 15 weight, minimum, for them to work well.
The combination of low oil level and too light fluid could be the cause of your problem.
Jon