Mountainbrad

My 2018 RR 300 seems to have a problem...I crash a lot. I ride in the big mountains of BC, Canada. Our trials trails are steep and unforgiving. But even so, I've just broken my third upper air box in 18 months. First, little cracks appear around the bolt holes of the white plastic section of the air box near the 2 lower screws of the gas tank. Over the next few months, these cracks propagate outwards toward the edge of the plastic. Once they reach the edge, it's just a matter of time. Are other owners seeing similar cracking and failure around these bolt holes? Anyone trying adding a metal support around these holes to beef them up? Share your Frankenstein fixes please. I love my TRS and plan to continue to support the brand. However hoping to avoid shelling out to buy another upper air box.

I've had the engine scream out of control a few times. Even pulling the spark plug doesn't help. It was caused by the cable housing getting jammed on the outside of the throttle tube housing. Wiggle that first. Keeping the throttle cable properly adjusted is the best preventative. I've also heard putting the bike in fifth gear with the rear brake on can stall the engine but I've never tried it... Keeping calm is the hardest thing! Good idea by Arnoux to practice the tail pipe covering. I'll put it on the list with my buddies.

I have a 2018 RR 300. I'm on my third water pump shaft, improper, and fifth set of seals. I've done it myself a couple of times, and had it done professionally a couple of times thinking I did something wrong... always the same result. Everything will run great for about 2 months. Then the tell tale sign leaking out of the weep holes between the seals. Frustrating. These days I just top up the coolant fluid if I know I'm only going out for a couple of hours. A fellow Beta bike owner mentioned he had a similar issue until he bought the Jitsie after market set up. Will this fit our TRS's? Anything else?

What does the soap do?

I love the feel of the stock Braktec levers found on TRS bikes through 2016 to 2019. (I haven't seen the 20's) However they seem fairly delicate in terms maintaining their original shape. After a couple of months of hard riding, crashing, and bashing, they get bent around pretty bad. I've seen them fully "C" shaped. Replacements are very expensive here in Canada. Anyone with hints on how to bend them back? or preventative tips? Much appreciated

How many man-hours do you think are required to remove components off of the leaking frame and reinstall on a new(or repaired frame) assuming the work is completed by a professional mechanic or experienced qualified individual?

I've only owned the bike for 6 months. I'm guessing it's a bit late to apply for a recall?

I have an 09 Beta 250. As most know, the petrol tank is built into the frame. My bike has a slow leak. My bike had been leaking petrol from a weld about 2 or 3 cm above the petcock area. I estimate it will leak about a drip every 2-3 minutes. It leaks just slower than the evaporation rate because I usually don't see a puddle but it can be seen on the engine. If it is cold in the garage and the evaporation rate is slower, after a day I will find a small 3cm stain on the concrete. My garage stinks off fuel. J&B weld compound worked for a couple of months. Stripping the bike down to get it welded is inconvenient at the moment. Does anyone else have any ideas how to stop the leak? Wondering if pinching the tank cap tube would create a vacuum ?

First up, I'm a fledging rookie mechanic. I've been riding only about a year. I appreciate everyone's help. I was using Orange II coolant which is designed for Dodge/jeep cars and minivans. I picked it at local hardware store because it said it was compatible with light aluminum engines and 1/4 price of the coolants in the bike specific shops. However shortly after using it, I found I was leaking coolant out of the water pump weep hole between the seals after about every three rides (8hours) I probably changed the water side seal 4 times. Finally frustrated, I discussed it local trials specific shop owner. He pointed out that the Orange II contained silicates which are designed to minimize rust, and are likely eating the seals. I switched to a dirt bike specific coolant, put on a fresh seal, and had no issues for about 5 rides until this recent fan issue...it could be related. However I was not seeing any leaks from the water pump area.

What coolant is everyone using? The recommended Nils product is not available in Canada. I've experimented with various pre-mixed designed for cars with limited success...

After a hard 10 minute climb, I noticed my fan was not running. The entire top end was very hot...water instantly sizzled on the cap and exterior cyclinder body. The hoses to and from the rad were also very hot to the touch. After cooling off, I limbed home. I'm not sure where to start? How can I test if fan motor is gone, or temp sensor, ECI, or whatever else. I don't have much electrical experience. All guidance is appreciated!

Today while riding down a long and technical trail, I noticed my front brake lever seemed to lose its free play and the lever seemed to stiffen up. I continued descending for another 5 minutes and the front brake began to engage automatically. Within a minute, the front brake was locked firmly on the disk. I couldn't turn the front wheel. The lever could not be pulled back. This continued for about 5 minutes until things cooled down where gradually the pressure on the lever and disc relaxed and I was able to freely spin the wheel. I figured perhaps my finger was slightly riding the brake and causing friction and heat. I consciously finished the remaining descent trying to minimize the front brake. I rode the rest of the day without incident until i was riding home at the end of the day on a logging road when suddenly it seized up solid again. After it cooled, increased the lever free play to about 3mm which seems ok for now. I have a 2009 Beta Evo with stock brakes I think. Anybody seen this before? Any recommendations?

I'm about 220lbs and an intermediate rider. I have a 2018 TRS 300RR. I'm trying to learn hopping my bike but having a hard time. My suspension rebound is set quite dampened which suits the West coast of Canada where the mountain climbs are long, steep and rooty. When I jump down hard and compress the suspension i find it doesn't spring back fast enough to elevate the wheels off the ground. Is this normal? Even when i compress and pull up hard the tires barely come off ground . Should i make the forks and ring coil more "springy". Any suggestions and methods appreciated.

I love the S3 on my TRS, but i need a pair for a gift for a buddy.

I'm looking for recommendations on foot pegs. Hoping not to spend more than $100 US dollars. Any advice?