kuelmuel

Personally I'd keep the stock swingarm and suspension but fit the TYZ wheel and fabricate some form of mount for the disc caliper. Can't be all that hard... I've been talking about doing it for years along with the front wheel/front disc from a TYZ.

Much obliged.

Howdo, I've been out locally round the shops and can't find a new TMX. I've also been online googling and have spoke to a variety of people, but not the people I want. Ellastone Offroad please anyone? Or a breakers I can get spares for a 1988 TY250R?

I run mine on the cheapest nastiest oil that my local bike shop stocks, mixed at 50:1. Been doing it for 4 years and it's never oiled a plug up.

I dunno about everyone else, but I've always found my Talon front disc to be a bit rubbish compared to the Pinky front disc, better to upgrade to one of them if you ask me.

I haven't found anywhere in the UK so far. It looks like this diaphragm, but it's wider than this: http://www.ajpamerica.com/images/parts/R346010.jpg

Hey, just stripped my front Talon disc brake down, and the diaphragm is too swollen to get back in. It's a Brembo brake lever, and the Diaphragm is a Brembo 10 271140 (The 10 is also offset upwardsso I don't know if this is relevant to the part number or not). I can't find one anywhere online. Haven't rung round locally yet but just wondering if someone on here has ever had to find one and if so, where could I get one from? Cheers.

Danny's doesn't "love himself" at all, he's one of the most level headed guys from trials I know! (Pedally and motory. ) Post the old Coust vid from 2004 Dan, and when you were on the news in your back garden haha. I read in your other topic you're thinking about buying a bike? Want to come out with me and Ryan for a go some time? Dunno how much motorbike trials you've ridden in the past.

Could you post some details of more of the mods you've done? I'm collecting information slowly for if I can ever find one in the UK or afford to import one.

Get it running, roll it along and tread it into gear, then just work your way up to 3rd or 4th. (You can change gear easily without the clutch if you're gentle). Then hold the clutch in, and accelerate hard until it starts to slip. Used to work on our old 175 twinshock!

Hi Skippy, it sounds exactly like mine used to be like. Turned out mine was the main jet being really old and it was worn out, so I replaced it with another 140 (but new), and it runs excellent now. Keep an eye on the spark plug, the centre should be really clean on these if it's running right, if not it'll looks black and coated with either oil or soot. My brothers bike is terrible, we went through the whole bike and put new crank seals in, repacked the exaust (front pipe and silencer), tried different main jets etc and it's still not right.

I've been riding motorbike trials for about 5 years but not much for the last 2/3, certainly in the last year I've only ridden the motorbike about 4 times max, but every time I do get out on it I've improved loads just through riding my push bike all the time. You don't really pick up bad habits because they're so different, the only time I've seen that happen is when motorbike trials riders try to ride their push bike like motorbikes.

I know a guy who's lad had one, I'll point him in this direction. (y)

OK just got the top end off, everything is only just within the service limit. Turns out when I shone a torch down the side of the piston I thought the gap was about 2.5mm because it only reflected off the flat side, the tapers that miss the pins in the piston ring grooves didn't reflect any light back. Before long it will need the big end and little end replacing though, they have a tiny bit of twist and up and down play, but my old TY was worse when we rebuilt the engine 4 years ago.

At the moment I have got just about enough spare cash to do the main bearings, seals, big end and little end, but if I'm going to have to get it rebored and a new piston in there then I think I might well do a load more mods to it I've been wanting to do. Shortened inlet, lower and move back the footpegs, extened the rear shock bracket, make another groove on the shock so I can increase the preload, and a few more besides!

The compression hasn't dropped from what I can tell. I've asked a couple of guys I know who've had them for years, they both said they've run worse before. To be honest, it definately will need a rebore, new piston, rings, little end, big end and main bearings, and I'll take it out to 270 anyway, so the plan is to just take it easy and if it siezes I'll have to dip into the savings. (Supposed to be for emergancies while I'm at Uni, starting in september).

I was pleasantly surprise actually, the service limit is 1mm so I expected them to be about 10mm, but they were only 2.5mm! So I've just put it back together again. The piston can twist a bit from side to side but not a huge amount, only about 1-2 degrees either side. I'm sure it'll be fine for a while yet...

Thanks for all the help guys. I emailed Birketts, no reply yet. Just about to measure the piston ring end gap, 10 points to whoever guesses the closest as to how many times over the service interval they are.

Thanks for the advice guys. Anyone got a number for Birketts? I can't find one on the net anywhere and I don't get TMX any more.

Hey Max, never realised you were yamahaty250xox!! I'm pretty sure that my Dad made a press when he replaced the conrod races in his AJS, so we shouldn't find it very difficult. The plan is to rebuild the bottom end and get it all perfect, try and get away with a set of rings and then look into more torque/power mods in the future.

From what I remember from stripping the top end last time, (over a year ago), the piston could twist from side to side slightly in the bore, so I'm guessing there isn't much left of the big and little ends by now. It has been rebored at some point to +0.5mm, so I may well get away with a set of new rings. If I can get the big end bearings, Daddy will be able to split and rejoin the crank. Quick question though, what about the race the bearings run on in the conrod? I assume they're just press-fitted? So just heat it up in the oven for a bit then drift it out? We can get the bearings for free, just have to say they're for Dad's machine at work, but we'd have to buy the mains and seals. Looks like I might be able to do it on the cheap if I can get away without doing a rebore, I'll ring JK Hirst this week and see how much I'm looking at for the big end, little end and a set of rings. Cheers for the help guys!

I think my engine seriously needs rebuilding now, just wondering how much it would cost roughly? Say if it needed new big and little ends, main bearings + seals, new piston and a rebore? It's had a brand new clutch at some point which is in really good nick, I rebuilt it and all the friction plates, smooth plates and springs are actually oversized according to the manual, so it doesn't slip at all! I gearbox is sweet aswell, changes really smoothly.

You really should put stuff like this on Trials-Forum.co.uk if you ask me mate, there are very few push bike trials riders who come on here, only two other semi-regulars from what I can remember and they're both sponsered! I'd never heard of The Monty Shop until I spotted it on here, turns out you're a UK company I think? All the major shops have a pretty big presence on TF, like Tarty, Select, Cleanbikes etc. Just an idea, I think you'd get far more orders if you had a bigger presense on there rather than on here.

They do have preload adjustment though, there are two rings that lock against each other, are they done up to the stop? I'm only about 175lbs, so with gear about 190lbs I reckon, and it sags loads and bottoms out all the time, my rear mudguard always has marks on from where the tyre hits it. I'd look to go for a significantly stiffer spring, then you can play with the preload adjustment.

I've had loads of trouble with my TK carbs, they always seem to run rich. On my current one it has a brand new 140 main jet, which is the smallest standard one and the needle is in the lowest position, and it still oils the plug up every so often. From what I hear they always did run a bit rich, so with 20 years of petrol and air running through it, they tend to run even richer. My next port of call will be the needle, it appears to me to run rich from having the throttle about half open to fully open, but as it has a brand new jet it should be sorted. You just have to keep testing and fettling, each one is different, the one in my 88 doesn't seem that bad, but the one in my 84 was fairly knackered.