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Graham2

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Everything posted by Graham2
 
 
  1. there is a slot/ hole where the air comes into the airbox, on mine, there is an additional piece of plastic that forms a sort of spout that smooths the flow of air into the airbox and over the filter. it's almost directly in thy way when you want to slide the filter in and out. hence I remove it to work on the filter. I can imagine someone binning it, although that's not a good idea
  2. Hi Cooter 78, I just read else where that someone said do not bother fitting bar risers if you want to ride trials I ride trials, love it, I'm only 5ft 7inch and theoretically I should not be using them. I am am happier with them, will never be a top level rider, but riding at least 3 or four hours a week I get less thumb and wrist ache. Arthritis is creeping up. I tried to leave them off when I changed bike but I soon put them back on.
  3. Hi, sorry I missed your post. from memory I think they were these Apico Standard Handlebar Riser Kit - 22.2mm
  4. I like this idea about the stand from motivita. My friends laugh at how often they run to save mine going over.
  5. I am really, really pleased with my TRS 250 RR 2017 I learnt on facebook a useful mod and thought it might be useful to create a list for you/share ideas. I will kick of with what has been done to mine. 59 year old, Clubman/Sportsman level riding. A thicker head gasket to make it softer to ride and easier to start Something in the clutch to make it softer. These first two mods are standard on the 2020 TRS One R I believe? and were done by a previous owner. A small plate down near the right hand footpeg. This stops my foot snagging on the bolt heads/frame when searching for the brake pedal Drilling out the swinging arm drain holes Greasing the chain tensioner bolts Fitting an aluminium tickover adjustment screw Clean and lubricate and grease everything!! When refitting the air filter, first remove the bit of plastic around the inlet hole make sure the rad coolant only just covers the fins inside (syringe and plastic tube) not a long list, anyone done anything else? Not exactly mods but I did also add Full length fork guards Bar raisers Backed of all suspension settings (I am 70kg) Repair /upgraded the water pump shaft and seals. Does anyone have suggestions? I find the choke awkward to use. cheers
  6. Please, please service your swing arm shaft regularly. I recently bought a 2017 250 RR. Love it to ride and its easy to work on. however.... I started doing some routine maintenance on the swing arm bearings only to find the shaft seized. it turned out it was seized into the gearbox. it has been a moderately expensive epic to sort it out. including angle grinders, brute force and only then engine removal to take it to a specialist workshop where they needed the 20 ton press and heat. Apart from the press work I am doing it myself. I might have been unlucky, the last owner probably never touched it, but less than three years old? Even if you do not strip and grease, you should turn them frequently. They are very easy to turn if done regularly. ease the nut, clean out the Allen socket head and use a 10mm allen wrench. you can also look at how the top hats are moving, they should spin independently of shaft or swinging arm (I believe?). I guess in normal use they appear fixed to the shaft but a little tap with prodder should easily spin them. happy riding
  7. Hi, lots of interesting thoughts, I have done the deed and bought a 2017 250 TRS RR Riding tomorrow for the first time. V excited. thanks folks
  8. I rode a TRS 280 at the weekend and loved it, really made me think. Thanks Olly! There are very few for sale second hand. Are few being sold new or are people hanging on to them? my thoughts on the 280. I was amazed how easily it started, very impressed. A big issue for me as I have trouble with this. Lovely to ride, felt agile and loose in a good way, easy to turn and eager. Way too much power for me, I could ride it but at my level not needed. A good 250 might be in my garage soon! Like many others I regularly look at other makes. have ridden mont 315. GasGas 125, beta 4t, beta 250 2t and currently a 260 4rt. All different. I ride low intermediate level cheers folks
  9. Caption competition? I think the coach said something about this.........I need an answer quick
  10. Hi, bit of info. My txt pro 125 2013 was very awkward when changing the plug. Anyone reading my other post may gather I needed to do this a lot before I altered the jetting. The answer is to remove the three screws that mount the fan, rotate it a third of a turn and rescrew. I.e. the outlet for the wires was directly downwards and in the way. I have no way of knowing if it was wrong to start with? How are other GG of this era? I have had no problems since. Cheers folks
  11. Re my original post and all your replies. Thank you for all the interest. I thought it would confuse the original issue if I discussed the jetting changes I have made. Just to emphasise the problem of starting was with or without these changes. I found my125 pro fouled its plug very quickly to a rich blackness within one tank full of fuel. Yes I trickle around like an old man some of the time but equally I give it some Welly from time to time. I became fed up with changing the plug. I read and watched, particularly Jim Snell's carb video. I eventually decided to lower the needle one notch and it improves the situation a lot. I have moved to one and three quarter turns out on the front screw(sorry I can never remember if it is called a fuel or an air screw, lean is in). So my setting on this screw is leaner than the 3.5 average setting. On this journey I did speak to factory Kev to take his advice. When I assured him my original settings were standard I expected him to recommend different jetting. His advise was to rev it v hard very regularly. I am not prepared to do this so I ignored the advise and leaned it down. My much more experienced expert rider friends have the new settings the thumbs up and expressed enthusiasm for how lovely the bike is. They normally ride 250s and had not ridden 125s. Someone will ask if the air is clean..... Yes totally and lightly oiled every ride if dusty etc. Every other ride if not. Love the bike now I can start it. Tempted by a TRS 250....but I doubt it would improve my riding....would I enjoy riding more? Who knows
  12. Hi folks, I will be looking for a used 250 trs. Probably a standard trs one as I am an older rider just riding for enjoyment. Not sure if I should wait until the models come through with the modified kickstart. what is the difference in practice? i currently ride a txt pro 125 and worry about starting a bigger cc bike. is a 250 trs like a 250 gas gas to start? I am happy to put a low comp head on if needed. I am 68 kilo, reasonably fit, fast approaching 60 thanks
  13. Hi, in answer to turbofurball. The carb has been completely stripped, perfectly cleaned and fully rebuilt, twice! Along with the fuel tap filter and the filter on the side of the carb. As I did think this may have been the problem. All electrical earths cleaned and silicone greased, air box and filter perfect , new plug , etc. I had every jet out of the carb and checked with gas gas, they are all standard. Flywheel side cover removed and checked. All clean and immaculate. Unmolested and still on original tyres. The club has an much older 125 (prob low on compression?) that starts v easily but mine has been a sod at times and yet it is a little firecracker when going.
  14. As a light weight 68kg 58 year returning adult I read lots of advice about bike choice and chose a 2013 immaculate gas gas txt pro. fantastic bike when it's running, cannot praise it highly enough, However it proved a random starter. Reading deeper into this I find others saying they can be hard to start. Sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. So frustrating I nearly sold it. I can start mont 4rt, beta 250 4rt and beta 250 evo so my kicking strength is good enough. Yes the bike is in excellent order. I read all the advice. Choke no throttle when cold. Choke if allowed to cool for even 10 min. Take up slack in kick start, get above the bike/ lean against tree etc. Surprise it with a quick fast kick. Preferably in neutral , fresh fuel, etc. Tried this for months and had some very frustrating times. Ahhhhh. Friends laughed until they tried and got the same result. someone did say rock it backwards and forward in gear. near, but not precise enough. Here is my breakthrough moment. When warm, I pull it gently backwards against compression, pull the clutch in , hold it on at least 1/4 throttle and kick it in gear. This has proved almost totally reliable and predictable. Brilliant, can't say how chuffed I am, starting to enjoy riding again. hope this is useful to someone. Presumably it would work with any gg and many riders probably do it but no one told me. cheers folks
  15. hi, folks more knowledgeable than me will be along soon. They will ask if you have changed the oil. they will ask what oil you are using. they will quote an important dimension for the thickness of the clutch pack. these are on the forums somewhere. could you expand on the problem. age of bike? first you say it was stiff, which has one set of issues but later in the paragraph you say difficulty engaging?
  16. Hi, you have me worried. Are you sure? Jim Snell of you tube fame insists that out is rich , in is lean. I have just spent an hour trying to find the post on this site that I originally trusted, but i cannot find it
  17. Where are you in the learning curve? I liked this idea when I was teaching......When I assessed my students I would ask myself, are they: 1. Unconsciously incompetent? 2. Consciously incompetent? 3. Consciously competent? 4. Unconsciously competent? or, 1. I am unaware of what I need to know (or how to do it). 2. I am aware what I need to know, (but struggle to do it) 3. I can do it if I think about it 4. I can do it without thinking I just thought I would share that thought... hope someone enjoys. Cheers Graham
  18. Hi everyone, thanks for all the advice. It is probably time to close this thread. quick update as part of the thank you. The total carb clean, a new plug and dropping the needle one notch has improved things to a point where I am not so concerned. It still runs a bit rich and the air screw needs winding in more than the standard setting (i.e. one turn out and is usually three or so) When it is running, it runs well and performs very well but it does smoke more than we think normal, i.e. the club experts view when I rode yesterday. I had to change the plug half way through my ride yesterday as it was getting sooty ( it became difficult to start). Yes I ride quite gently but I do rev it occasionally fairly hard. I hear the view that my timing/and or spark may be out but I am told it is running too well for that. Not discounted but parked for the moment. I checked the exhaust by pulling out the rear packing. Dirtyish but still some large areas of white/clean packing Several of you kindly suggested, from my text that if it was a sudden change it could not be carb setting. In fact I do not think it was was quite so quick I think it was creeping up on me/and may have been an issue since I bought it ( fairly new to me/three months) I am going to go back to Putoline oil, I was using Putoline and moved to Ipone ( like you I suspect this has nothing to do with it but it is the only thing I changed around the time I recognised the problem.. I have been given the standard carb/jet/slide sizes by Trials UK. I will check these when I next strip down. Trials UK state for 2013 125 TXT Pro. 36 needle/40 slide/36 pilot/105 main jet from factory but GasGas uk fit 115 main jet. Happy new year folks Graham
  19. Hi B40, thanks for working through it for me. I am not sure what to do next. I will try and ride at Great Brickhill at the weekend. I will buy a flywheel puller and pull the flywheel and check around ...nothing to lose by having a look. I will pull the exhaust apart and check for carbon like you say jetting should not have changed if it right before, however, I have lowered the needle vale one notch to try and lean it down. I am not discounting the fact the last owner may have fiddled with it. So far no one has been able to confirm if the number 36 needle and 2nd up circlip position is standard.
  20. Oh dear........ you have me worried. it smokes a tiny amount, by which I mean more than I expect for the hours but probably about right for a five year old bike..
  21. thanks for the ideas, I had discounted crank seals as the gearbox level has not gone down but I will watch it. Ignition? I am pretty sure the spark is good, it is the seriously black plug that worries me
  22. hi, thanks, a good thought. I completely stripped everything down including the choke, so I have covered that option.
  23. Hi, I need some advice please. My bike is running extremely rich. It is an immaculate, extremely low hours, 2013 125cc TXT Pro. It is still on its first tyres and chain! The bike was / is immaculate and when I first bought it three months ago several experienced club members tried it and assured me it was a very good one, one expert tried some serious climbs on it! You could easily believe it is three months old. I have been riding it regularly for about three months and it became difficult to start, first I assumed I was struggling with technique and this forum helped with that. I clean and oil the air filter every trial. I have changed the gearbox oil twice, last time three weeks ago. Putoline 75W Light Gear oil. Six long rides rides since. The starting became a real issue, I stripped and cleaned the carb (no obvious issues) and changed the plug two trials ago and the bike was running reasonably. But, the plug was very black when I changed it and the bike was reluctant to rev beyond half revs on a climb, although it would clear if free revved with no load. I started this weekend trial and the bike did not run very well, I tried turning in the mixture screw, although it made little difference it seemed a bit happier 1.5 turns out. I am concerned because the basic setting is approx three+ turns out. After about an hour the bike cut out and refused to restart, the plug is extremely black again, beyond sooty it was like a baked on black layer ( new plug that trail). What I have done today. Stripped the carb completely and blown out all the holes with an air line, again no obvious issues. The carb is a standard carb with PHBL26 on the side. New plug fitted. Removed and cleaned air filter and the whole airbox, all looks good, no obstructions. Every thing looks in really excellent condition. The carb has a number 40 slide and a number 36 needle. The circlip on the needle was on the second from the bottom groove, I have moved it to the third one up to drop the needle, I am expecting this will weaken it? I restarted the bike with some difficulty and warmed it up. I tried to adjust the mixture/air? screw and it does not seem to make a lot of difference... but is maybe happier at one and half turns out, still along way from the 3+ suggested on the forum. I believe screwing it in makes it leaner? Everything else seems in excellent order. I have not done anything to the exaust, surely this cannot be clogged with so few hours? I used up the remainder of the litre of oil the seller gave me and I am now using Ipone R2000RS fully synthetic. I use 65ml for 5litres. The bike has always been a tiny bit smokey but only slightly. Plug is BPR5ES as sold me by Gordon Farley in Guildford Ideas please. Are the slide and needle numbers standard? Where should the circlip be on the needle? How far in can I screw the air screw if the bike runs well? can the exaust be clogged and causing this? Is the oil OK? I have use about a litre since a bought the bike, so about 15 gallons. The bike was so immaculate, I doubt it had more than a couple of tanks run through it. The problems may have started since I changed to Ipone 2T oil? many thanks, sorry about the length of the text.. Graham riding with Berkhamstead and Hook Woods clubs
 
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